RedPath88

This person took it upon himself to remove out link (among others)

Remember the barbwire too, he was a regular here for a while

I do, I remember when he applied the bed liner to the lower section of the body, The green trim inside however I do not remember Unless it's on consignment it's not a member or former member selling it, it's at a dealership, so odds are good that it was traded in. I don't recal the members name, but am trying. I'll look around and see if I can find him.

Fixed it for you

For the most part no pics should be needed, it's fairly simple overall. Did you use any penetrating oil (such as PB Blaster) prior to starting? Best idea is to soak them a couple tiems a day for a week, before you start breaking things free

The quote below from your first post says otherwise Control anytime you are around a cop is something that you must learn or you will become a target... an easy target... for them in the future. And it's just going to hurt you. It will make future tickets harder to fight and your insurance will just continue to skyrocket. As for the other tickets, you have a few of options.... Claim the added light was needed due to weather conditions remove wiring and switches to imply that they could not have been on try and play dumb to the law... which might work but i would not bet on it or own up to it, take your fines, learn from it and move on

I disagree, the ECU is too important to brush of on the assumption that water "can't really sit with it." All it takes is a little water and your dead... in the water (pun intended) This is not like an emissions control computer on late carbureted vehicles, this computer actually runs the engine. If you are going to do something, wether is is drive through something that may allow water in or make a mod that could expose it to water, you need to take steps to protect it. it costs little or nothing to do it, but not doing it could cost a lot of $$ Glove box relocation mod is another alternative

Yep I watched it too, looks to be a good truck when done, but I wish they would have done something with the engine other than just replacing it with a rebuild unit

Then the belt squeal was not the problem, it was the symptom

Better yet, get him to join the fourms You have options ranging all the way from small t-bar cranks and spring spacers, to UCA/Spring replacements or drop brakent lifts and on up to SAS'ing your truck. There is a lot of info on all options here

Local Schucks Auto Supply listed prices varying from something like $8-$20 (bearing only) depending one which one you need.. there were a couple sizes apparently and iirc around $30-$35 for the entire pulley w/bearing.

I believe so, yes.. or it may just be that they are extended further from the factory... I did not extend them to see if they are actually longer or not. Pulled and sitting next to each other on the garage floor the HB steering shaft was about 1.5 or so inches longer. I'll compare them and see if they are built longer or simply extended further from the factory.

Nope, it will not. Advace Adapters "might" make an adapter, but odds are your best bet would be swapping in a GM transmission and transfercase. All of which has been done before, but it will be a lot of work

I drive by a car was twice a day... does that count?

You might try and locate a Hardbody transfer case shift lever and steering shaft (between firewall and steering box.) If you can aquire them it can potentially reduce some possible issues that a 3in body lift can cause. I did that and I had to modify nothing in those areas to get everything working

One would think that it should just be a sinply hook up... where is the relay located in the truck? If I can I'll take a look at mine to get a better understanding of it. Have you considered a replacement relay from nissan... or one from a wrecking yard?

It was not connected to anything on either side? Truck runs fine? Throw it away.... About one week later something will stop working and THEN you will know what it was No really... are there any markings on it at all? Model number, serial number manufacturer?

The dual filter unit that I have is made by transdapt

Link to Leman's want ad Also check all nearby wrecking yards along with classifieds and keep an eye on craigslist.org as well.

Do some searching here on this site (and perhaps others) you will find out what options exist for axles and suspension setups. You'll also get a basic idea of the pallpark dollar figure. Plus, perhaps the biggest benefit of reasearching the proccess is that you will learn a lot about it, what is required in parts, time, work and skill

When you figure that out, explain to me why we here in Washington State USA pay more than most of the rest of the country for fuel when when we have at least six refinery's right here on the west side of the mountains

Resize them (you can do it with Paint ) Or just email them with me too

k9, can you verify that for us?

Figured it was time to bump this topic, since summer is coming... at least for the majority of us it is And also because I just finished installing an electric fan tonight. (stock fan clutch died this morning) I simply could not justify spending $45-$90USD on another clutch, when I could convert to electric for the same or less than the low end of the price range. I picked up a $33 Flex-a-lite Adjustable Temperature Control kit (#31147) and a fan from a 1990 Ford Taurus 3.8L V6 Having already done this swap in my Toyota (different fan and controller though) the install was painless. For anyone looking for more info on this topic, search for "Electric Fan" or "Taurus Fan" and you will come up with a lot of info to help you out

I don't know of anyone who has ever been able to get them out without breaking them. trying to get them from being is next to impossible too, even if you can get up in theren the space to get to the clips is so tight that your not likely going to get anything in there. Perhaps Nissan has a tool for this, but I have never seen or heard of one. Sorry, I know thats not what you wanted to hear, but