RedPath88

Post quoted to the Pinned Topic Pathfinder Service Manuals *Will delete this one at a later date*

Post this here and the Pinned one won't "blow"

I agree with Simon completely on this subject. This has come up before and my opinion on it has remained the same, although just about anyone "can" do it, even if your only using a rachet to crank them with. obviously a breaker bar or long handled rachet would make it easier. But nothing makes it easier than taking the weight of the bar in the first place And I bet most won't have that happen, but it only takes once and your buying a new bolt or two! This was on the parts pig I bought

It was talked about here on these forums as well, iirc it the prints wre posted here, or were going to be at least. I don't remember which for sure.

They are under the carpet. I did not have to remove the pillar cover on my truck, but it's a 2door. the nut is housed inside a plastic keeper, which on my truck both of them broke inside and allowed the nuts to turn (the two front cabin mounts did not do that though). I had to bust out the top of the plastic retainer so I could get a socket down on the nut.

Ok perhaps I have the part name wrong, but that is what the muffler shop and also the local Nissan dealer called it

Wrecking yard.... when Bucky's Exhaust voided my muffler warranty due to "extreme heat" (a baffle in the muffler broke loose) they claimed it was due to that and would gladly honor my warranty "IF" I allowed them to replace the AIV @ $600 installed Told them where to go... after they ground my reverse gear and nearly drove my truck off the lift while it was still three feet off the ground ...and talked to the original shop who installed the muffler and cat. He had bought his way out of the chain and is now a private shop, but at the time could still bill back to Bucky's. He replaced the muffler for me and said BS about the "extreme heat"

That's the AIV (Air Injection Valve) box and as GrimGreg said, it's part of the emissions system. I have gone through two of them in the past year or so. The original rusted out and the used replacement that I picked up (looked nearly new) is doing the same... and it gurgles You can tell when they have rusted through, because you can hear unmuffled (though not extrememly loud) exhaust noise coming from it

LUND makes some... cant remember the other company that "I think" still makes them. There was another one too, but WARN bought them out and cancelled the entire line I used to work at the place that manufactured them, after WARN cancelled the product line the molds went into storage waiting for approval to destroy them. AFAIK they still have not done anything to the molds. Before I left that company I made two of them for my Yota (two different styles). Had I owned the Pathy then I would have made them too lol. They are still wrapped up and in the attic of my garage, I always intended on using them as a plug to build a new mold, but have not done so. I don't seem to like them as much as I used to

If this is the line that goes from the PS Pump to the steering box, then you need to get a pre made line with the ends already installed, replacement. Either from a parts store, a hose specialty shop (who can make them) or from Nissan them self. If it is the line that goes from the PS Pump to the Reservoir then you just need some good quality pressure hose, which you can get from a hydraulics or hose shop

I don't remember the exact site, but if you search the site for info on that and... I think it was clear corner lights, you should find the link posted by "vsicks pathy"

Here are two HowTo's... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5599 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325 Start with those and there is a lot more info availible in the forums

I picked up some new hoses for the PS reservoir so that it would not have to be relocated at all Spent under $50 on new longer lines, but that included new Oil Filter Relocation Kit lines as well... which were the majority of that cost.

Companies like that? RC is normally very easy to deal with, however most if not all of those who have delt with them on this board have done so by phone

Yes they should fit, but call a local tire shop, give them the specs on the wheels and ask if they will fit.. simple Oh and drive that Yota over here and I'll take it off of your hands

Looks Good!

Assuming that you are using a soldering "iron" and NOT a mini torch

If your front end is not even then yes it can throw the rear off a little, I had that problem as well. Once I adjusted the bars to level the front the back was just about right as well. Your shocks don't effect ride height, just quality. Unless they are air shocks and you have them pumped up unevenly. Make sure that the rear springs are properly seated top and bottom. Although I am assuming that you did nothing to the springs when you installed the BL. Also make sure that you have all the blocks in correctly, if something is in there (or not in there) such as a pad, then that can also throw it off.

I am reading this as the arms themselves broke at the front of the main section. So the tube (at the front) where the bushings fit in broke off? I have never heard of this happening, especially both at the same time! Were you travelling at a decent rate of speed, did you hit "really" hard and do impacts like this happen a lot?

Lift Options: Add spacers to the rear springs or use replacement springs and crank the torsion bars up front Replace the front UCA's, and rear springs, crank T-Bars 2in or 3in body lift Buy and install a Trailmaster 4in drop bracket lift kit A combination of the above, such as: 1/2 with 3 1/2 with 4 3 with 4 or 1/2 with 3 and 4 Replacement spring options are Lift Springs designed for Pathfinders, front Jeep Grand Cherokee Coils (aka JGCC), Ford Truck Front Coils (both require springs from certain models and year ranges - a search around here with provide a LOT of info on this option) Aftermarket UCA (Upper Control Arms) options are Rough Country/Superlift, AC, Calmini. (note that with the exception of the 4in lift above all front lift is achieved by cranking the torsion bars) *Installing replacement UCA's correct ball joint angles (excluding AC arms) and assist in getting proper alignment once the lift is installed.* Body Lift kits are from Trailmaster (if they are still sold under that brand) and Performance Accessories. If you buy a kit from AC then you are getting a PA kit with the proper replacement bolts included. Older Pathfinders do not need these "special" bolts. My recommendations? Suspension:Rough Country UCA's, JGCC (Ford coils if you want a stiffer ride, higher load carrying capacity) Body lift/Drop Bracket LiftThis depends on your preference and needs, explain further what you want to do with your truck, along with the size of tire you wish to run and how much you want to spend, then we can better advise The TM 4in lift is not only costly, but it also requires additional changes that the others typically do not "require". You can also install after market Torsion bars, such as those from Sway-a-Way, though this is not always needed unless you are going to be bolting on a lot of extra weight to the front of your truck, and even then it's not always needed. It is also recommended that you beef up the steering when you lift the front end, as with just about any IFS system, that is the weak link in our trucks once lifted Or you can go all the way and SAS (Solid Axle Swap) it, this involves cutting out the entire front suspension and drive components and replacing it with a solid axle from another truck. If you look around you will find a lot of info on this as well, along with a truck or two currently in the works!

Yep there are 2WD (no front drive at all) Pathfinders here in North America... Here's one: http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/743706604.html

Hello Congrats I'll try My SE came with 235's and I switched from them (all season tread) to 31x10.5 AT's. I noticed a little differences in the steering but not a whole lot. It might have partially been due to the fact that I kept the steel wheels (15x6) when I first put the 31's on. When I changed the wheels out to a set of 9.5in wide wheels it was noticeably stiffer at very low speed and even more so when stopped on a high traction surface. As for being harder on the steering box, sure I bet it is as the box, pump and the rest of the steering system must work a little harder. BUT, I personally would not worry about it, as Nissan obviously felt that it was up to the task, because they put 31x10.5's on a lot of the trucks stock Not all SE's came with LSD rear's, mine is one of them. And since it has already been explained about how to check, I'll not repeat that This is a tough question to answer because it depends completely on the condition of your truck, specifically the nuts and bolts that must be removed/loosened and your own ability as a mechanic. ID'ing and spraying every thing that must be broke free with penetrating oil (such as PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench) a week before starting the lift makes life a lot easier. When I did mine a couple weekends ago I took quite a few brakes (have kids ) and managed to complete it in about 12hrs by myself.

Cranking the T-Bars and installing Jeep Grand Cherokee springs in the rear is essentially a suspension lift. You are modifying the suspension to raise it above what it was stock. It's just not a prepackaged "lift" You also do not need to get the springs from a V8 equipped Cherokee as we have found that the springs very a lot, and you can find the same ones on both V8 and I6 model. Ford coils are also an option, for further information please click the following link Rear Spring Options For Lifting Your WD21 Pathy Check local wrecking yards for the springs too. Some, like myself, have yards nearby where the cost can be as little as $20-$30 for a pair of springs.

That was him, thanks Member page: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showuser=1110