RedPath88

Welcome back Rami I was wondering where you had gone. Last I remember you were having some truck trouble as well... tranny if I remember right? Hows it running now?

As long as you leave it in 2WD then you'll be just fine

Dowser, this one was posted in the PoHo by redfinder... http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/884378368.html Located in Chesapeake, VA... a bit of a drive @ a little over 750 miles by MapQuest

BONDO makes one like that.

They told me it could not be done, even after I did it (swap engines without removing tranny) That is one of two stock ratios (4.3 and 4.6) Make sure the front and rear diffs have the SAME ratio! Seems to be a bit up in the air on simply swapping brake setups, some say it works other say it does not. I plan on this same swap, and am going to try it without changing anything else. If it does not work then I will replace the brake master cylinder with one meant for disk brakes (Disk and Drum MC's have different part numbers)

Just don't ground your wrench out on the starter main wire (Usually a big red cable going directly back to the starters + side) I suggest that you disconnect the battery before you start... just to be safe

I have done the tranny fluid in the oil thing once and it did seem to clean it out pretty good. but I personally would not use a full quart, I used a half of one. Tranny fluid is lower viscosity, so I was not willing to risk wear on the engine, even if only for a little while. I ran it for 250miles then drained and refilled with all motor oil and lot of crap came out. After 500 miles with the motor oil in there I drained and refilled again. It was cleaner but still dirtier than it should have been. I refilled again and this time ran it for 1000 miles. When I drained that it was way way cleaner than prior and looked almost new. I refilled and called it good. On my next regular oil change it came out as I expected it would for a normal oil change.

Thanks.... I think

Welcome back! Back here AND to Pathfinders

Just to let people know, when you do reply to a SPAM post, your just replying to a bot, not a real person. And some of them apperently check for replies and if any are found, they increase the amount their efforts. So please do not reply, just report them to us

And someone responded to it too \/

Sorry, for got to come back here (kinda figured it was a bit far anyway ) No, no salt here

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/860448871.html

"New UCA's" Not to hard as long as the bolts break free alright (PB Blaster, or another penetrating oil, a couple times a day for a week before you start the work) "Replace stuck auto-hubs" Simple swap (Auto to Manual) There is a how to with all new pics in the HowTo's "tranny cooler" Never done it myself, but not to hard. Search, as many have done it "E-Fan" Simple, search this one too because there is lots of info on the how's and what's regarding this swap. I have NO zip ties on my efan... or any where else on my truck (short of the "factory" ones)

Again the same symptoms mine had, which the lifter replacement solved. I can't speak for the injector tick, as mine has never done that (and the current injectors are aftermarket). but even if they had, it would have been easily distinguished because my injectors are no where near the lifters

Chiltons and Haynes are both available at your local parts stores too... and although some will argue, they are both better than nothing at all. Sometimes, IMO they are nice supplemental manuals to an FSM because they offer tips and a bit more detail on how to do some things. This is because they are written for a backyard mechanic, not for a factory trained technician. But know that they are by no means "complete" manuals and they are not a replacement for a FSM.

Regularly scan Ebay and CraigsList

Now I am no expert on this but... the noise should go away quickly and I would say within a few minutes at the most, if they do not then it's time to do something about it. I personally waited until it was nearly ten minutes before mine stopped ticking. At that point, I personally could just not stand it any longer Bleed down is normal and those under pressure, due to the position of the cam when the engine stopped, will bleed down faster. But as I understand it, were are normally talking about days of bleed down (between startups) before they would make such a noise. If they are tapping after only sitting a short time then they are worn, or as you will find in the link below, it could just be old oil causing the problem. Other reasons could be normal wear on the surface of the lifter and camshaft lobes where they meet. Technical - Hydraulic Lifters "VW Specific" *As the link name implies that artical is about VW's but it gives a lot of info on Hydraulic Lifters, from basic info and on to how they work.* I read in another article that HL's have been nicknamed by some as "The best oil filter in your engine" because they can trap dirt in the oil as small as 1 micro, while oil filters only trap 5 micron sized particles and larger. Trapping this dirt also causes a lifter to wear

My vote is for the lifters.... mine did the exact same thing a few years ago. The lifters, which are hydraulic, are bleeding down (aka draining) while the engine is off, if the sound does go away after it has been running for a few as you mentioned, then they are refilling. Mine also did that at first, but eventually it led to replacement of them. I had two or three of them on one side doing it. However, since I was in there I just replaced them all on that side. Get yourself an automotive stethoscope (couple bucks at Harbor Freight) and pinpoint where the sound is coming from. Using that tool you will be able to ID exactly which ones are tapping IIRC it was about $100 (at Puyallup Nissan, best price I could find) for all the lifters on one side, and I did the work myself which save a lot of money there. It's not hard just be sure to torque everything correctly (spec and pattern), if it comes down to replacing them. My current engine, which was used is starting to develop a lifter tap on cold mornings. But based on the old one (the one I replaced them in) I should still have a long time before they get to bad... hopefully

Around the campfire finished for the night, or during a long break (cooking lunch, etc), that can be another story. Before heading out or just before starting up again, not at all. Although for me, since I have kids with me and no other possible drive, then it is not at all on an outing.

X3 X2

Yeah that first one I had ever done and now I have the pins to do the right hand door. But since I have done one, the second one will be much easier.

In addition to JJ, 88pathoffroad and I have also changed the pins, and we all agree that it was a PITA

About time you post up! Seen you lurking around off and on for a bit now... welcome back Sorry to hear about you kids and congrats on the newest addition! B pretty much covered everything else (jabbing, jokes, etc) And he did in fact turn to the dark site, yes he drives an auto now Located in Western WA, I will keep my eyes open for a good, low prices 95 for you