RedPath88

Just looking for a follow up

So can you post some pics here now, for those of us who do not have or might not want a MS account?

Did you get them?

If they can regrind the crank I would go that route, just make sure that if your timing marks are going to change that they permanently mark it accordingly and also that you fully understand anything that has changed, put it on paper just in case you forget. As with B I don't get the "never coming off" thing either, you need some clarity on that before you move forward with any option

Ok so your crankshaft IS damaged then? Did it look anything like mine... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&amp...ost&p=56010

If I am understanding you correctly, this sounds to me like an easy fix Is it just the pulley that is bad? By your description the crankshaft was undamaged, so just get a new pulley or head the the wrecking yard and get a good replacement one. Pick up a new woodruff key, change your belt, put it all back togetther and drive on and on and on, until your next belt change interval then... change it again I had the actual keyways in my trucks original engine round out... both of them! The cost of having it fixed was to great compared to simply swapping in a good running, lower milage engine when the original had 291,000 miles on it already. If you search around my pics are still on the forums.

Perhaps nothing constructive, but you sure did ad some :laugh: to the thread Oh and silverlion, yes the Krylon paint does eventually cause issues

Did pretty much the same thing to change mine a while back....

As B said I also suggest Craftsman for a torque wrench. I did recently but a HF one, but ti was for soemthing not related to auto mechanics... something that just needs to be "close" bit not exact I personally have never bought a timeing belt (or chain) from a dealer, I get mine from Napa and I have never had any problems. Same goes for the other belts and most small items. But that's just me *shrug*

As others have said already, get it out of there... Sure some have not had any troubles, but why risk it? I just swapped out my tranny, same time 5523Pathfinder did his too. It started as a slight noise and quickly progressed to a loud whine and almost shudder noise in all but fourth. Darek (5523) cracked his old one open and found all kinds of bits that used to be important parts of the assembly. Both GL5 and running it low will cause serious problems for most tranny's

Yeah better recount the number of lug nuts As 88 said, it's 6x5.5 You might be able to find a used smitty (check CL) otherwise a lot of people just make their own or have someone make one for them

Yozsi, I personally agree but.. Yes thats true, but that is assuming you have the know how and means to do it your self and that you actually wany to sas your truck... a SAS is not for everyone, some people don't like/want them

Pic on another truck...

The 4in is a "Drop Bracket" lift, these drop the front diff and torsion bar cross member down 4in, thus raising the body and frame 4in. Because of this I believe the crossover pipe has to be replaced, Slick may able to provide better info as one of her trucks has that style lift. The "3in" lift is composed of all or some of the parts I mentioned above and no exhaust mods are required. And just so you know, all three of these lift types are stackable, meaning you can use them all to get a lift of up to 10in (9-9.5 is more realistic because the "3in suspension lift" is usually best left at 2-2.5in)

My suggestion, Decide if you want a Body Lift, Suspension lift, or both. If you want a Body Lift, you can pick that up with the replacement bolts from www.4x4parts.com Suspension Lift: Call Rough Country for the UCA's ($150-$210usd) Grab some JGC Springs from a wrecking yard or member here, if any have some for sale. ($20-$50usd) Order some ProComp ES3000 or 9000's from www.4wheelparts.com ($145-$160) *Search the forums for info on longer rear shocks. Fronts remain the same length even when lifted* Get a Idler Arm brace, these can be made for cheap or purchased for $40usd at www.ruggedrocksoffroad.com Consider a replacement Centerlink (steering) from member name "hoohaa" (not sure of current pricing) No need to lengthen the brake lines with a BL and/or suspension lift

If it has an LSD you should see an orange sticker on the rear of the pumpkin. Otherwise you can jack up the rear end and spin one wheel to check.

I lucked out (in the way of valve meeting pistons) when I had a camshaft broke

If there is a compartment door just behind the spare tire, open that, it should be inside mounted in a floor bracket

You talking about a truck, not just a truck but a 4x4.. not only that but a truck based SUV 4x4 with a high center of gravity that WILL sway if you move to much at speed.. try it at a lower number (say 50mph) and then consider how much that movement will be amplified at 80, 90, 100 or higher! Then consider the tire issued GrimGreg brought up, the tires on your Pathfinder (assuming the are appropriate for your truck) were not designed to be used to race at high speeds with. Trying to race an F150 (2wd I am guessing?) with a Pathfinder is IMO, stupid. The F150 is going to beat you... If it's a v6 model and/or 4x4 then the story might be different, but still not likely. There is no point in it either way. But if you still feel that you must do such an idiotic thing, take the advice above and do it where NOBODY, other than you and the other driver else can be hurt. That way if something does happen, there is nobody, anybody needs to feel sorry for!

"Anything" can be done, the question is, "Is it worth it?" I would not assume that the parts are "longer" just because Dakota's are mid-sized and Pathfinders are Mini's, if the frame rails are farther apart on the Dakota, then the suspension arms are probably pretty close Things you need to know first is how close it is to fitting to begin with, from there you can come up with a plan on fitting. Then you have other consideration, such as the front drive line (unless you only swap the control arm assemblies), is the shaft even on the same side between the two trucks, plan on making a new drive line if it is. What about steering? Going to have to come up with something there too. Lets not forget a rear cross member for the torsion bars and what about the brake? The brake lines will need to be rerouted/modified as well. there is a ton of little stuff that will come up during the swap. Is the Dakota IFS any better than the Nissan design is? Or will you just be swapping one designs set of flaws for another... Alternate ideas would be SAS (Solid Axle Swap), but given that idea is not the best for everyone, perhaps leaving it as is would be best.

Energy Suspension makes some that will fit, although they are not really a "spacer" so they are not that tall. If those mount at the top of the Jeep spring (pigtail end), which I think they will then they will be to small for Pathfinders.

A lot of pressure building up when reving the engine makes me think along the lines of a leaking head gasket... does the coolant in the resivour ever boil? Lets hope it's not a head gasket... There is a small 90deg hose located between the heads at the top of the engine that is prone to be the cause of mystery leaks in the cooling system, take a look at that. The water pump is often suspected when this hose goes out, because the coolant tends to run down the inside of the timing cover and leaks out the bottom, as if it was coming from the water pump.

*sigh* why must we ALWAYS do this.... NO they did NOT come on ALL SE"s There are a lot of SE's, mine included, that came with the smaller tires

Zack, That is a symptom of a known problem with these trucks. The cause is low oil levels due to a design flaw. Read more here in this thread: Manual transmission TSB, major problem potential IMO (I just had this issue a few months back) your best option is to find the lowest milage used transmission you can find and just swap it in. Once done, folow that TSB to the letter on filling it up. And it might not be a bad idea to refill it with Redline MT90 synthetic gear oil... something I also did.

Marcels (Black Panther) Ultimate kit for WD21's