RedPath88

If you have the cash and time head to the wrecking yard and look for a 4wd HB, snag the steering shaft and the TC Shifter. Both are a little longer and not having to mess with it makes it worth the money. At least in my case it was worth it, but if they want to much for them

Yep they are... AC is short for Automotive Customizers, aka 4x4parts.com

Firestone would have... or should have consdered the shims in what they did do. Did you have an "alignment" done or did they just do an eyeball job?

I suggest you dedicate a full weekend, "just in case" you run into any big problems

I did mine myself as well, it "would" be easier with another pair of hands, but it's not required You can do one side at a time, just remember to loosen the bolts on the other before lifting Attacking it that way will also prevent the change of ant shifting forward to back, since one side will still be attached.

The motor I replaced my 88's with was from a 93-95, don't remember the exact year, so not much changed, if anything

Yeah done that, if once you get it installed it runs backwards, then rotate the motor 180deg and reinstall

Oil filled shocks do not rebound by themselves, because the are not "charged." They stay wherever you position them, until you or some other force moves them again. Gas filled are charged and thus do return to a preset position when you move them and afaik air filled do the same as gas shocks. So no, there does not seem to be anything wrong with yours

The ones I used are Metric Grade 10.9 which iirc is the equivalent of SAE Grade 8. Just take one of the studs down to the local parts or hardware store and get the bolts needed. Having an original will allow them to match up the new bolts so will you walk out with what you need As for the snap rings, I reused mine and with just short of 360,000 miles on my truck, they are still holding strong.

Combined with the angles not being corrected. You have double checked that everything is installed correctly and is tight?

That's one of the known issues with AC Arms, difficulty getting the alignment correct because that do not compensate for ball joint angles. By your "\---/" description, it looks like the tops of the tires lean outward. So shims behind the upper control arms (between them and the frame) need to be removed. You can do it yourself to get it "close" or just let a shop do it during an alignment job. Firestone's Lifetime Alignment is my recommendation, you can find info on it in the "Product reviews" section

Agreed I have never had the chance too do that butI have voiced my opinion of others doing to while driving on the highway/freeway's. Some of them just could not figure, some got the point clearly and looked like they felt like an idiot. Then there are those who got the point and could not have cared less It's in the off topic section

Well hopefully that does work... I had one that both the wrecking yard and I tried to get off. They tried for an 1-1/2 then I took the whole damned thing home and tried using a fork and blunt hits similar to the method you derscribed. Heat was the only thing that got it off. TxFront - Please keep in mind here that when we say use heat, it does not mean that you are turning the damned thing red or excessively heating the shaft. Apply heat to the *arm* not the shaft, and do so in multiple short periods of time, allowing it to cool in between. This causes the expansion and contraction of the metal arm and will eventually "break" it free from the shaft. Normally you would just heat both and get it done faster, but in this case you have seals on the shaft to consider, so you have to be careful in how warm to get that shaft

Heat is they key here, you can try too avoid using it (and hopefully you can) but in the end that is mostly likely what you will have to do.

iirc 88 mounted a set upside down and ran into problems later on

Loosen the three mounting bolts on the front.

They are often a major PITA, PB Blaster as often as you can, keep it soaked. Heat while trying to pull it, but as was mentioned, watch the amount due to the PS Box seals. A 3lb short handled sledge to help break it fee is not a bad idea either. I have pulled a few and all of them were really stuck on.

Right on Ticker And a to the guy who turned around after leaving too help you out... so many would just keep on going and never thnk about it again.

When I say I have coins I mean that it's full of coins All silver, pennies I toss in the center console... bottom is covered with them. I my truck is not an auto and the closest it had to a coin collector was just a dish behind the shifters. That console is gone now, swapped in favor of a modified 94 console. But still it's got the same idea of a dish, just more rounded. Either way, neither provides any way too cover whats in there and I don't leave anything more than a buck or two in change visible from outside... $2.54 in change is not worth a borken window

Change, keys to the removabe roof rack bar I keep in the back and the reciever locking pin.

Yeah kinda funny this comes up because just yesterday one of my sons said I was leaking air from the right rear tire, but it was just the sound of the fuel pump he heard.

I had one of them, Kyosho Double Dare, 4WD/4WS, Twin motor

Assuming that it is not a spill from overfilling it, I would recommend that you pull it (four bolts) and see if there is fluid inside. If your carefull you "should" be able to get enough movement out of the brake lines to take a look. I have on several other vehicles, but have never tried on a Pathfinder. Yes there are rebuild kids for most M/C's, but consider time/cost ratios. Price both and see if its truely worth your time to rebuild it yourself

I replaced mine with a new one because I did have some startup and cold running problems on cold winter mornings, but then we are talking about 3-4am. If your mornings are not bad, or they start later on when it's warmer out, then you will not likely have any problems. Busting it out simply free's up the chamber some and allows the air/fuel mixture to "flow" better.

Huh? Super Lift UCA's (Upper Control Arms) not a body lift Yes Superlift (And Rough Country - Same design) UCA's will fit without any mods. 4WD Hardbody's and Pathfinders share the same front suspension (the rear is different) and the parts interchange I have Superlift UCA's on my truck. Only thing to remember is that SL/RC and Calmini, unlike AC arms, compensate for the upper balljoint angles on lifted applications. They are designed to correct the angle once the T-Bars are cranked to achieve lift, if you install them and do not lift the front end then the ball joints will not be at the correct angles... so lift when you install