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Everything posted by RedPath88
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Brian? Nope Look down \/ \/ \/
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Welcome back, have not seen you in a long time There are no other known fuses that I can think of, but mine did the same thing when I first got it. It turned out to be the drivers door switch. Now keep in mind that mine is a 2dr, so it may be different, but since you mentioned pushing/pulling the drivers lock I am thinking that it's pretty much the same. (Moving the knob up or down unlocks/locks all other doors as well?) The IC board inside the sealed waterproof switch cracks over time and loses connectivity either intermittently or completely. Usually it's an occasional problem before becoming permanent. In my case, the vibrations of closing another door or simply driving down the road would cause it to lock and unlock randomly. There is also a door lock controller that could be the problem (in 2drs it's located below the left hand triangular window) which had no effect when I replaced mine. It was the left hand door switch that was my problem.
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Oh I don't mean that people should keep the stock shocks, just trying to remove the chance of anyone misunderstanding and believing that they need "lift shocks". Because the length of the front shocks does not change with this type of lift I was asking about the price because they seem to fluctuate from RC in general
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When were you quoted that price on the RC UCA's? And the front shocks do not change they are the same with or without a lift
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King Cab or not, this is essentially the same as a typical North American Pathfinder, but with a different body. The rear suspension is however different as it has a leaf spring setup, which is the norm for trucks.
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UCA = Upper Control Arm. They are the top suspension arms in the front end. CL = Centerlink. It's the crossbar in the steering that connects your left and right wheels via the tie rods. Body lifts on a Pathfinder are not that bad. They are not as difficult to install as some would have you think (yes some trucks due to rust and bolt seizing) are harder than others. I installed a 3in lift by my self and had next to no trouble at all.
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You've never see one? hmm, as B said, they are all over the place down here There just an extended version of a normal Hardbody, otherwise exactly the same
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Could always try calling the service department tomorrow.. or stopping by
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I know your talking about a Matrix here but I found something that might point to the problem "T.S.B.::EL004-05: 01-05 RAV4: Difficulty Removing Ignition Key" It's possible that they share cylinder designs and may have the same issue. All I found in a quick search was the title, and so far, no actual link to the TSB. I also found a post on another forum that said the issue was resolved (on another model) by the dealer with a new lock cylinder, under warranty.
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I considered the hydraulic options called "LineLoc's" or "Line Locks" But steered towards the mechanical method for safety's sake. After much research I found that a lot of people have reported their trucks "creeping" and some even rolling after being "locked" for an extended period of time. (pressure slowly bleeding out). People have had this problem when using the them with both TC brakes and wheel brakes. Granted it's not a common thing but it can and does happen. A risk that the mechanical brake eliminates And you can use your stock e-brake lever with it
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Also called a Transfer Case Brake. As mentioned before, they cannot be installed on a stock Pathy. I have this setup for my Yota *Also moving this to the General Forums, because it covers Pathfinders in general not just one year range*
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I'm saying that Derek has them and after playing with them some they are working for him. He's also helped others afaik Search around, you'll find pics of his truck and some posts where he's talked about it. Although I personally recommend Superlift/Rough Country UCA's, lots of people have AC arms, some have trouble some don't seem too
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Depends on how much you going to lift. Unfortunately Derek (5523Pathfinder) is gone for a week, he's the one to talk to about making those arms work
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Ouch Scott, sorry to hear about the cost. A Grand because its just out of warranty! Good luck this time around
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All those are the same in 2 and 4 door models
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Really? Perhaps that is because that is not only within spec, but it is the IDEAL width rim for a 12.5in wide tire I ran 12.5's on 8.5in wide wheels for over ten years without a problem, because it is within recommended spec. Now the 12.5's are on 10in wide rims... remarkably, they are even happier now because that is the wheel width of choice for the tire
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Update on 4.3 vortec swap
RedPath88 replied to knikmudslinger's topic in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
In addition to those Dave mentioned you can also check local off road shops they should be able to order one without a problem. Some parts stores can too, depending on the store/chain. -
No I didn't say that... I said that my BFG AT's slid a bit more than expected, not bad (for THIS type of tire ) just more than I figured they would. Both when they were new and when they had 10-20K miles on them. I was near the tire shop one day and decided to have them do the rotation for me. They looked at them and offered to sipe them for a fee... after wheeling and dealing we settled on FREE So I had them do it. It made a difference, a very noticeable difference.
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Exactly... Just so you know, I found that the BFG AT's I had slid easily on wet roads, until I had them siped, then they got pretty good traction or an AT. But that is not an option for those tires, they are to low (remaining tread) to effectively sipe
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Height is not as important as width for wheel determination. I ran 10.5in wide tires (31x10.5x15) on the stock steel 15x6's for a long time and although it was not as apparent as in Precise1's case it did have some of the wear characteristics he mentioned. I currently have 33x10.5x15's o 15x8.5's on the Pathy and for reference, 33x12.5x15's on 15x10 wheels on the yota. Generally a 10.5in wide tire needs a 7-9in wide wheel. And a 12.5in wide tire needs an 8/8.5-11in wide wheel.
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Which is an AC rebranded Performance Accessories kit, shop around you may be able tio find a better price. I have been quoted lower prices locally in the past Since your truck is an 87... by the selection you made (or did not make?) ...you don't have to worry about the different rear bolts. unless it's a 93 like your name implies
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Does TM still make a BL for the Pathfinder? I have not seen them listed in ages. Well at any rate, TM and PA kits are basically the same, both companies are owned by Performance Automotive Group, Inc No the radiator drop down kit is, as stated already not required. And as Simon mentioned, the transfer case/floor problem is universal on "at least" the 3in lifts. You can eliminate the need to cut th floor by swapping in a TC lever from a Hardbody if you can find one. But it still does not return the lever to stock alignment. I did that on mine and although it does work I will probably modify it in the future because it does cause me a little issue with the cup holders that I installed prior to the BL. Can be done by yourself barring an major problem (start spraying all buts and bolts week in advance to make life a lot easier.) And I agree completely on dedicating a weekend, although it may not take that long, any problems could easily extend trhe time it takes.
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hmm forgot to post... removed mine Sunday, cut the brace and installed the bracket. Everything fits as it should now and although you "can" do it without the brace I fully recommend installing the brace the proper way. The main reason is because it positions the light fixture correctly and the overhang at the rear keeps the headliner snug against the fixture so there is little gap there. Which was the problem I had without the brace. On the original I ended up cutting the back of the lights buckets? (for lack of a better description) and trimming them down. Then I bonded it back together. Although it worked and everyone said "I can't see anything wrong with it" I was never happy with it. This is much better now
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Same here and so far no joy
