RedPath88

Nissan equipment with a brace suits just about everyone fine Check dealer prices too, some items have surprisingly low prices

Just drive it like it's new to you again, until you get used to how it handles now

lol Aside from the obvious that has already been state here... I gotta say, that there are not "some" leaf sprung tucks with good to extreme flex, there are a LOT of them. They are not uncommon at all.

Those look like they will work out really well, if used make sure they are not bent or tweaked in anyway.

That's right, they won't care. I have a Lifetime Alignment at Firestone, had one realignment done after lift install and they said nothing. As B said, they don't/can't align the rear end anyway

Great news Scott! Ditto on them standing behind the work

The extra 2in makes a noticeable difference

Good to hear!

Along with the air box solution mentioned above double check and dry out electrical connections. Mr. P and I both had some issues when we played in a big mud puddle after everyone else went home on a trip to Tayuya. Aside from killing our starters, we also had running problems due to connectors being wet inside.

I am wondering if this is just a difference in terms used on opposite sides of the pond? In North America, as far as I know there was never a D or WD21 released with a carburetor sitting on top of the intake. However, a lot of times the early Fuel Injection version known as TBI (Throttle Body Injection) is mistaken for a carby, partly due to the round air cleaner sitting on top that is identical to what you might find on a carb'ed engine. Some people would even argue that it is just a glorified carb even though, other than in appearance they are different. Is this what you have on the engines you talking about OZ? And is this what TBI is referred to down there? Or do you have true carburetors from the factory on D and WD21's? If that is the case, then more info on it would be greatly appreciated. Info such as the number of barrels, reliability and if it was used on any other engines and vehicle models?

There was no full sized truck or ute offerings from Nissan in North America until the release of the Titan and Pathfinder Armada (currently known and just "Armada") The truck known as the Hardbody (D21) here was called the Navara unless I am mistaken. The "Hardbody" ran from 1986-1997 in North America. In 1998 they released the "Frontier" as it's successor, which again, if I am not mistaken was still called the Navara elsewhere.

Thanks! And same to you (if applicable) and to all others

I think his point was to swap the Pathy body onto a frame that already had a solid axle under it, from the factory. Thus his reference to Patrols and Hilux/Surf/Cruiser Toyota's. It definitely would work, but the amount of time, money and custom fabricating needed to do it right, might end up being more than what it would take to just do a SAS on a Pathfinder

Yes that was prior to installing any lift at all. It was stock height with 31in tires on the base 15x6 rims (not the optional "Lego's that came stock on trucks with 31in tires.) The next day I went wheeling and believe that the removal of the rear bar helped me greatly there, because it allowed both tires to remain on the ground more often. After the lift and 33in tires I am still comfortable with how it handles. I cannot personally speak for both bars being removed, only for the rear being removed with a less effective front. In minor cornering my front bar does little to nothing, but in major/higher speed cornering I am sure it does more. The front does have a fixed amount of travel, some would argue to much and that the front sway bar limits the travel to within the safe range. A number of people have removed the front bar, some report no problems while wheeling, others say they tore up CV boots and or joints more often. As for handling, same story... some say it made it much worse others day no problem. The best advice I can give you is to try it for yourself and see how you like it. Take one off at a time, if you like it leave it off, but if you don't then put it back on

I noticed only a little difference when I removed my rear bar. I drive a lot and am still comfortable with cornering and sudden lane changes (spurred, buy others doing the same RIGHT IN FRONT OF ME ) My front is still attached buy does not fully do it's normal job because the bushings at the frame mounts or gone. One day the occasional "clank" will finally get irritating enough that I will just remove the bar, if not replace the bushings. But your results may vary

nice

As far as I know, nobody makes and after market sway bar for our trucks

And nice lol edicer2, tell the parents congrats on the new Path, but sad to see the LC go!

Throw a new Timing Belt on while your at it. Even if the current one is not that old. They don't cost much ($18-$25) and any coolant that spills on the existing one could cause early failure. I'd hate to see you figure this out, only to have the belt snap 5k later!

"lol Sorry about that I read your post COMPLETEY wrong But this does explain why I was a little confused about your post Yes, they make torsion bars, not sway bars. I would blame the late night, but it was not that late

Sway-A-Way makes some

And it still starts and runs? I don't know "exactly" what it controls on a Pathfinder or in Nissan's eyes in general, but it is tied into the computer, charging and starting systems (based on a quick look at a wiring diagram). Do you have a copy of a FSM? If so then it sounds like it's time the break it out and have a look :Aok

Napa probably has a source for bulk pressure hose, if not try calling around to local hydraulic or oil specialty shops. That is where I found the hose to replace my PS Pump lines. The 3in kit comes with a metal pipe for extending the fuel filler tube. It's just a matter of cutting the tube, slipping the pipe in (which sounded easier than it was) and clamping it down. Precise1 has info about the bolts and idea's on where to find them. Hopefully he will chime in here

Mine does not get used that often but I have never had that problem when it has been used. Never happened when I had the original one by the windows either. Which were just like the center belt, until I changed the the newer ones with the shoulder strap. I know that if kids move around a lot, then they slowly tighten on them, could that be what is going on? Or perhaps the child keeps pulling it tighter until it's simply to tight and he/she no longer likes then calls out "Daddy!" I can remember some seatbelt stops that people had when I was a kid. Basically they just clamped around the belt and you positioned them where ever you wanted, and it would prevent the belt from going in an further. I have not seen them in stores recently, but then I have not been looking for them either And I guess it is "possible" that the belt retractor is bad, but in my experience (and I have not had much with bad seat belts) they usually stop retracting the belt correctly, not get tighter.

um... This It's called a Thrust Block, and all three of the diffs designated for the H233B in the FSM have them. 2Pinion Open Type (Different style TB): 4Pinion Open Type (This is what mine is): 4Pinion LSD Type: When I started to put everything back together I had a problem getting the axle shafts to seat completely. Pulled out the FSM and started looking, found the TB note about not being used with disks. Opened the diff back up, pulled it out, put it all back together and the axles slid into without a problem *shrug* I have heard that of others being able to do it, without removing the Thrust Block. But all I can say is that with it in, I seemed to have a problem. Rather than messing around with it, I simply removed it as per the FSM