RedPath88

WHY ARE WE YELLING????? Anyway, I'm going to combine your threads since they flow as one

You bought a Harbor Freight one didn't you? Most of the stuff there is of low quality, somethings are "ok" and some are really not bad for what they are. I personally would never trust my engine to anything from there My advice, if you did get one from there, remove it, take it back or throw it away and head to a real parts store and but a quality gauge. Gut that's just my opinion.

How about you just post a side view picture of your truck and state what size your tires area

On road only use might make replacement UCA's even more important. Aftermarket UCA's that correct ball joint angles not only help make them last longer but they also allow for proper alignment. If you cannot get it align correctly you will see it in tire wear. Another option for on road use might be ball joint spacers, they help to correct angles once lifted. Some have reported bad experiences with them, but I believe most of them have had a lot of off road use, where as you say it would be mostly if not completely on road.

If a SAS is out of the question for now and a long while, then get an upgraded/modified CL.

I am pretty sure she signed up here last night... kingman emailed her and I sent a text over the weekend in responce to her first ad That's the second ad in a few days from her lol

Yeah I am pretty sure that you got a sensor meant for a VG30e (MPFI) while your truck has a VG30i (TBI).

I've been told that you can just splice the three wire into a four wire system, but there are mixed results doing it, as I understand. I ordered a direct replacement from www.oxygensensors.com

External, located on the righthand side just below center iirc

Welding would by far be the best option for repair of that head, replacement of the entire head would be an equally good method (depending on the costs of both options) Although everything I know says do not just use sealant, I do have to agree that it would probably work just fine for a long time. Things to watch out for would be... putting to much sealant in and actually clogging the water jacket, this would include screwing in the set screw too far since you drilled through, not sealing it good enough and causing it to leak early. Also watch out for metal shavings getting into the cooling system from drilling and/or turning in a set screw (either creating threads in the drilled section or by tapping it for the new set screw)

If you crank them up and it is still to low or it sags down a bit to far after you adjust them, then reindex the bars before you replace them. Don't look at it as "tightening" them, because the spring rate of the bars does not change. But it does change if you go with stiffer aftermarket bars Instructions on adjusting and reindexing can be found in the Garage

Yeah they should work out well... just pray you never bend a spindle, might have a hard time getting a replacement!

Nissan

They had a removable one that went in where the ash tray is. You might be able to find one, they pop up on ebay every now and then

I used to use Chevron oil all the time and never had any issues with it in my other vehicles

L&P used to sell them as an option (I have them) anyone know where they got them?

Many use them, from what I understand they are popular in ARB Land... aka Australia There used to be a Aus member here who had one, said he loved it. Not sure about getting under the truck though..maybe someone who has one or has used one can comment on that?

wow, Welcome back Rumor had it, you sold your Pathy... Anyway, if none of them are working I would look more towards the power supply being disrupted. I'd have to look at a diagram to see if just how the front switch is set in the system, but I have heard of front switches on other vehicles causing this problem when they go bad. Have you checked it's individual operation with a meter? Also, does the Window Lock button affect only the rear windows or also the front(s) on a 4dr? On my 2dr it it does work on the pass window, but then I don't power rears. If it locks out only the rear windows then look at it. Again I am not sure about how it works on a Pathy, but on some others it also locks out the drivers switches, so it could be the problem.

As far as I know there is no difference in regard to installing body lifts on RH and LR drive versions. Steel really does not offer you anything over the standard plastic/resin blocks. You seldom ever hear of a block being damaged, even by more active and hardcore wheelers who have them

True, unless you support the axle with a jackstand or wood blocks, rocks, etc, after lifting

Rockauto.com has the correct ones, prices good and shipping is quick. I replaced mine not long ago and they work great. I installed keyless entry long ago and when I pop the rear window (works the same with the dash switch) the window opens all the way on it's own, on all but the coldest/wettest mornings

OMG hahahaha!! So, you getting a lift B

Possibly a faulty part. If that pump have 100's of thousands of miles on it (multiple rebuilds) it's possible the metal has stressed. Could have even exploited what originally could have been a minor flaw. Since it's in the shop and they are going that far, are you also having them change the timing belt while they are at it? Perfect time to do it

Wow, good price! And Welcome back Rami! Again!!

Here you go... The detail is for a 2door, but this page came directly from a 1994 WD21 FSM, so it should be in the same general area. Also if you find that you do need a new switch, I could pick one op from a local wrecking yard for you (if they have one) including an E-AT switch. But given shipping, have you check wrecking yards down there?