GrimGreg

I forget the brand but that is how they were made, just another attempt at a split spark path plug.

It will work, doing it yourself might be tricky.

Why not Nissan symbols?

I always buy the connectors that fit my factory wiring connections and wire those to my deck, plug & play

3 choises these days 1. ARB 2. KMA 3. Custom made TJM used to make one also, but I think they stopped production on the WD21 one.

Might be the ideler pully, the one top center.

The fuse is in a little weather proof fuse holder on the passenger side wheel well under the hood.

:bow: Link and coil rear :bow:

I have a 2 1/4 Craftsman, in it's own carry case....very dusty now Only time I pull that thing out is for leveling decks and stuff at work.

There is te one behind the stereo and one behind the rear passenger side pannel. There are 2 boxes back there if auto tranny, the front most one is the tranny ecu, the rear one is the amp.

The fuseables are just wires inline from the positive battery terminal.

Most have a switch wire running off the headlight wires, just run that to a hot lead.

I told you to get a 3 ton -thnkboutit-

They do have a lifetime if it is truely borken, if they aren't returning fully, check the guide bar at the top for dirt build up (was the trouble with mine when I asked a Nissan service manager about them).

What do you care Yukon traitor!

They are different, you would nee o do other swaps to get it to work correctly, in otherwords can be done, but would require a lot of rework and other parts.

I have an issue on my 88 where the kinked end of the cable slips out of the toggle when trying to move to the right hand options (vent only, vent/floor, floor only). I tried to re-kink the wire once but it didn't work. What it actually does is the toggle moves, but the cable jumps out and slides through the toggle.

:X

Just wait till they get the magnetic fluids on the market, hit a button and you have a solid link, hit it again and the link will move all over.

Our stockers on the WDs are 90A IIRC.

Why are you worried about moving from TDC? The T-belt should be set right by the time you put the pulley back on so nothing will get missaligned if it does move. One way that works well, it you have the strength, pull the coil wire and have someone "bump" the starter while you hold a wrench on the bolt.

That would be my guess. I found a short in one of my wires, mine had been reading 1/4 tank below actual.

My 88 has no sways, I have had to do emergency manuvers at 70+mph in it with no troubles. My 93 still has the rear, but I tend to leave it unattached on one side most of the time.

For home, don't get anything smaller than a 3ton. I got a Craftsman set 2 years ago that had a 3 ton jack, 2 stands, 2 wheel chocks, a rolling work seat, fender cover, 4 way, and a set of jumper cables for $99. The jack has a max height of 23", most 3 tons don't go that high.

My 88 driver's door can be opened by any key that will fit in the lock.