GrimGreg

Actually a lot of carpets are plastic fiber.

Start with ading some driving lights in the factory holes in your bumper, will probably net you better results.

I just did mine with the cap and plugs, got wires a while ago and had planned to do everything else with, but just now got to them .

"IF" No IF about it for me

Guess you learned the hard wat not to use a reconditioned water pump. Might as well put all new in when you open it up, to save opening it up again in the near future.

They need a new award, gimick vehicle of the year. Past winners could have been; Aztec, Avalanche, Subaru Brat,....

BTW, where are you located? :idea: If you are close to one of us maybe we can give your Pathy a look see for ya.

I can go use a machine and do my own free anytime I want, so I never had to bother with a string. Used my calibrated eyeball to help with a trail alignment on an X once, about as close as I have come to a driveway alignment.

In my highschool auto shop we removed one once, took 2 guys (about 180 each)on an 8' pole attached to the breaker bar to bust it loose.

One thing to check on the frame, stick your finger in the holes (out of the gutter please) and feel if it is flakin off on the inside. Usually where it begins, it will flake off like a Baklava pastery.

:o DO NOT USE ONE OF THE JAW TYPE PULLERS!!!!! It can damage the balancer.

Only thing with the rotor is it has a screw that holds it in the proper place, if the screw is in the wrong position when you pull the cap off it can be a pain (just did mine last night, I just bumped the starter till the rotor turned to a good spot). For the screws on the cap, be carefull if they are old that you don't strip the head. I used a large flat screw driver with a wrench on it to turn them (stock screws). The replacement cap came with 8mm drive screws.

It happens, washing doesn't always get to the spots rust can. I've done a few rust repairs to both my Pathys, but if you catch them early it's not so much work.

Probably whatever was clunking got ground down to nothingness and the noise went away

The OD is completely different, it allows/disallows the tranny to shift into OD. The E/AT or power button is to allow it to be put into a mode where it will rev higher before shifting.

Yeah, my 88 needs a full evac/recharge. I use my 93 when it's over 90, it's AC is nice and cool

I thought it locked up in power mode?

Those are pretty genaric, but I wouldn't trust them for more than a temporary fix on our trucks, if even at all.

The washer on the shaft behind the hub is probably flipped. I made the same mistake when I had mine out pssd .

If you like low MPG, sure

Need to put that pic in a sticky thread in the New Member section.

Just cut and weld, about all you really can do. (Besides letting it die.)

Even then I doubt they have a high CFM, at least not large enough to be worth a damn. They would probably restrict more flow than aid it.

That 88 lived in Cleveland before I got it -thnkboutit-

I have a bunch of those fans too, but doubt they would be worth a damn. Ambient air flow through the engine bay is probably at a higher speed than those things put out.