GrimGreg

A picture of mine in the process, just undid the shock and upper ball joint (oops, and the Tie rod too).

Reason you have to drop the bars in ours is because they attach to the front crossmember with the LCA. A lot of other T-bar setups attach differently.

My 93 usually idles (smoothly) at about 600 if I leave it in drive, but I usually bump it into neutral when stopped at a light.

The issue is the T-bars, you can make drop brackets 6' tall ( ), but your T-bars are still going to hang low too. Without some sort of switch to a coil-over, air or strut setup in the front, droping crossmembers won't do much for ya.

Slick, I ment side of fender as like this: or this

Why not run them out the side of the fender?

I know they had a Matchbox D21, not sure about a WD though.

I know a guy with those, said they are nice, but the lens is plastic not glass (FYI).

It happens, I don't have a car

IIRC the R50 lifts are just a spring spacer, if so then if the spacer is 2" you get 2" of lift at the spring (which as long as you don't change anything else should give you an extra 2" of clearance tire-fender). Where lifts are kinda variable is with the T-bar fronts, the kit doesn't do any lifting, it just adds the ability to crank the T-bars enough to attain that much lift.

Link to old thread on it: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8511&hl=intake

Which part snapped, there are 3 cables; left, right and the one that goes to the stick. I've replaced my left side (was snapped when I bought it) not too hard. Getting ready to replace the right (it snapped after I fixed the left side pssd ). Hardest part is getting the metal tube out of the rear of the drum backing plate, the rest is cake.

I think one of the keys is that they have a good weight distribution and don't weigh too much.

:o Supposed to leave them when doing the body lift -thnkboutit- the lift spacers don't have any give to them, so if you remove the stock rubber pieces it'll ride really stiff (not to mention you won't get a full 2" or 3" in lift).

I used a putty knife and slid it up under each of the little catches that grab the metal lip :idea:

I made my own for my 93, about $50 in parts.

I think he is talking about the stock rubber pads on the body mounts. Never heard or read about anyone changing them, probably dealer only parts.

Scope out the Junkyards for some, I got a good set for my 88 since they were all bubbly.

110 ain't bad if you don't care about duty cycle.

Mr. bolt-on back on Where ya been man, it's been to quiet here?

Sure it wasn't too short all along? HB T-bars are the same, but 1" shorter.

Any hardware store should carry them. I get mine at Harbor Frieght these days.

Actually, most handy tool for metal is a 5" angle grinder. You can put cut wheels on it and cut any size or shape, grind wheels for heavy material removal, flap discs for light material removal or even polishing, and wire wheels for removing scale (rust). If I had the money I would get a Port-a-band over a chop saw; cleaner cut, less mess(no pile of grit), less heat put into the material being cut. (Of course a cold saw beats all, but unless you are indepentantly wealthy, or a professional fabricator don't even bother).

Without a hydrolic press/break about the easiest way to bend the metal cleanly would be either heat and hammer (really not so clean of a bend, if you're a beginner) or to make a break out of a jack or 2 and a good heavy stationary object. Example: Using your Pathy frame and the ground, lay a piece of material down with a good straight edge on it (2x4) perpandicular to the frame. Then lay the metal over that with the place you want bent sitting at the edge of the 2x4 and set a jack over the metal and 2x4, raise it till the truck just starts to lift. Now set another jack on the side you want bent and raise it till it begins to bend the metal. For a wider piece you may want a second 2x4 under the second jack to spread the load/bend across the sheet more evenly. Yeah, I'm a redneck engineer

Or a sensor got busted on the reinstall maybe.