GrimGreg

Yeah, if you take the skidplate on and off a lot they can rip at the frame mount hole, I have one that is about ripped through.

A lot of times a coat hanger through the top of door to the inside handle will work even better than trying to slim-jim it with the hanger.

They make them, but they aren't cheap.

The screen might make air flow even worse. As for an alternator sheild, I've been throwing ideas like that arround for a while, nothing conclusive yet.

Ah, ef you

IIRC=If I Remember Correctly Do we need a forum shorthand guide on here in the noob section?

1/4" inside IIRC

Those formed metal, or the fancy cheap imitation rubber?

White wire out of pin #19 on the ECU, it would match the white on the sensor, Black goes to from the sensor to Joint Connector "A", and the third wire runs to the fuse panel, 3rd slot over from the top right, 15A. According to my diagram for a 93.

Sounds like you didn't lift the front enough to make use of the extended UCAs. The more you lift it the more the wheels should go / \.

:o Maybe you need to learn to shift that MT to maximize mpg

The frame is no different for 87-89 and 90-95s. So they should still work.

Also, if you are oversized in tires, make sure the speedo is right, or that you are adjusting your figures accordingly for the difference. I use my GPS to verify my real mileage.

Stupid question, but gotta ask were the new ones greased? Maybe check your clearances and your driveshaft its self. The driveshaft might be out of balance or bent.

Double check that the old filter gasket isn't still there under the new one.

Check the contacts in the switch, #1 cause of headlight problems in our trucks.

Trying to find them at the computer end, or the end where they attach to the sensor?

Sounds like someone took it upon themselves to rewire things.

Which Xterra engine? The 3.3 is a simple swap from what I have read (uses same block as the 3.0 in the Pathy). Guy on AC did a 3.3 swap and is doing a SAS on his HB.

You can use some bondo on it if they are deep enough you need to fill them (ie 1/32" or deeper), sand it smooth, then hit the area with some factory color spray paint. If they are just a scrape through the clearcoat, sand it down with some fine grit and re-clear it.

I would recomend opening every electrical connector and goop some dielectric grease in them. It will help in 2 ways; keep water out while in the water, fight corrosion after being in the water.

I saw something similar made for Corvette rear glass hatches once, it was actually an extention you put on the catch end of the latch allowing it to be latched but open about 2".

I'm here to get info I don't have when needed, and share what info I can that I have. It's also nice just to BS with other Pathy lovers :gossip:

lol, got my wife a full set of Nightmare Before Christmas mats there for her VW.