GrimGreg

:idea: Look up a part number for your stock filter then crossreferance what other makes/ models use that filter, then use those to look for a relocation kit.

The short pieces of wire by the battery are the fuseable links, there is a green set, a black set and a red loop IIRC.

Keep an eye on the ones going through that spindle into the frame also, they have been known to strip and pull themselves out.

Yeah, but VA has pesky inspections.

Not all of them were rear leaf, I have seen linked rear Rodeos out there (stock).

To my knowledge my 88 is at over 200k on it's original auto tranny with stock cooler. The radiator was replaced about 30k ago (by previous owner) so I'm not concerned about it yet. For the vote I voted from my 93 which is at about 130k on it's AT with an external cooler added about 10k ago. Everytime I see a Pathy with an AT in the junkyard I think about grabbing it just to take home and rebuild, so I'm not stuck if one of mine decides to go.

Of the 05+ models available from Nissan, I would have to say the Frontier would get my vote. Just get the crewcab, and a topper

My XE has power/heated mirrors now too

Sounds like the connections to the speaker are in contact with the mount frame on it.

Yeah, nothing new or different available to update for.

You say that now, but wheeling is like sex; first you are kinda unnerved by the idea and take it easy, but once you are done, you wanna do it again, and can't wait till you CAN do it again. Then, since you can't go do it all the time, you start doing little things by yourself, just to fill the void (like parking on a rock put in a parking lot island to make it "pretty").

Like someone else mentioned, the Pilot is a tall bodied Honda Accord, basically the same "frame" (if you can call it that). Even the Pathfinders that have frame envy (96-04) are much more ruggedly constructed than any Honda. I like Honda cars, they make great cars, but their SUVs and "truck" , it's a joke using those names for them, are a joke.

:contract: I had one go in a HB I had, long story.... First thing I did when I bought both of my current ones was to change the T-Belt (actually got a $500 check from the used car place to get it done on my 93 when I bought it ).

All the lift blocks should be just the round plastic type, only problem you will have would be the bolts in the center and rear mounts possibly being too long and you'll need to make custom bumper and safety loop brackets the correct length

Same I think the originals were a really dark grey, almost black, to match the grill and plastic on the rear bumper.

Quit jerkin-off while driving down the road! R-12 is the old, R-134 is the newer

:contract: Yep, I would guess since it comes and goes that it is going, but not completely gone. When mine went, it was gone, the lights came on and stayed on.

They will bend very easily if you remove them wrong. there are metal clips on the inside that snap over a lip on the door. I used a putty knife and slid it up under each clip to pop it up over the lip.

Yeah, might as well swap them all now, rather than freak out when the next time bomb goes off under the hood

IIRC = If I Remember Correctly It was at the dealer, both sides, all but the 2 bolts into the LCA.

The rod sits in the sleeve, the sleeve sits in the hole in the frame and the bushings. The "washers" keep the sleeve and bushings in place. One other common issue with the rods is the hole they mount to in the frame can get elongated. Mine were a little bit, but I just left them alone, I get some nice creaks when I flex the front because of it too.

I got mine at the dealer, didn't shop around because I doubted any place like Napa, etc would have them.

Is it the top center idler that is squealing? Check that the bolt in the center is tight (not too tight though) if that's the one bothering you. It would be an easy one to replace if you had to. Only other one that really could or would squeal is the alternater, and usually means bad things going on and alternater replacement soon. If it's just the belts squealing check if they are loose, if not try spraying some belt dressing on them.

Well, if it was sheared off completely then it wouldn't be connected to the frame, but hanging down below the frame about 3"-5" been there. The kit you are describing has the bushiings and the sleeve that goes over the rod. If your rods are that bad, you may want to get whole new ones as once it begins to wear, it wears through the sleave and then into the rod its self (eventually breaking the rod). IIRC I paid $85 for all parts except the 2 bolts in the LCA when I did both sides on my 88.

Or the otherway around sometimes, GM didn't sell many NOVAs in Mexico when they first started making them...(no va = no go ).