GrimGreg

Yeah, change the cheap parts (belt, hoses, fluids, etc.) but let the expensive ones die before touching 'em.

For the ones that "don't line up" you need to drill the frame for the bolts. Don't remember the bolt size (I bought mine new at U-Haul).

Should, just the same as the 300z internals will fit the other. Not, sure, just an assumtion on my part.

How are you mounting it, direct to the roof, or off a rack?

Looks good, but doesn't the farring block the lights?

Same to ya

Since you can't move it anyway as is, take the cores in when you order and tell them where to stick the core charge

If you go with a "slightly used" (ie Junkyard one) make sure to get it from a larger V6 or V8 vehicle. A couple of us are using ones from Ford Exporers.

Do you polish turds too?

Self tapping screws

My Maxima seats were nice and clean when I got them.

Don't mistake the value of what you put into it with what someone would pay for it afterward. WD21 Trannys are worth more than the rest of the truck as a whole.

And how much of that money you want to throw at a 15 year old vehicle with no value to begin with.

I had to remove my tires to let it droop far enough, my jack stands wouldn't go up high enough.

Yes it is

Only bad thing I have really heard about the WARNs is the studs they come with to mount the hub are junk. Most people swap McMaster Carr part #91290A442 for the hub bolts, they are hex head like the factory ones.

Issues

You used a spring compresser? Just undo the shocks and Panhard Bar(if you don't have extended shocks already), the rear axel will drop far enough that the springs will fall out. You can flex the JGC coils by hand enough to get them in.

My B&M guage's instructions said to mount the sender after the cooler so that you know the cooler is working. It came with 2 T fittings, but neither matched the Nissan hard lines. I bought my own T to mount it on the rubber line and soldered a wire to the T for the sender's ground (grounds to the hard line in a "normal" installation). Thought about adding a second guage on the inlet side, just to see the high side too, just to see how effective the cooler really is. It came out of the cooler between 150 and 180 on the 2k+ mile trip I just took. I guess if it wasn't working right it would constantly get hotter on the output side. I want to make a mount for mine in the same place as you, had my tranny guage in the mount that came with it, 3M taped to the side of the center dash in the same area, but the 3M only held for a week. I also have a digital Volt meter down there bolted to the dash where the little filler piece is for the truck E-brake.

Screw that, they ugly inside :oops:

Wrong plastic piece, he is trying to remove the one on the outside. :secret:

You and me both, I frequent that one also because it is only 5 min from here.

Well, if the tank is drained, and has the sender, and fill hose removed if you weld the outside and happen to ignite any fumes it won't be very explosive since it will be uncontained, it would be more of a flash like lighting the gas grill. Now, seal the outside completely and the tank would go boom.

Well, it would be simple for a tranny mechanic, but if they don't touch internals then they can't do it. You can do it, but it isn't that simple for a novice. If you had the FSM or specific tranny manual for it then it would be a lot easier -study- . The output shaft is attached to a bunch of stuff inside, so you need to pretty much do a complete tare down to swap it.

Redneck sheilding gas? That's the first time I had heard of doing that.