Mr_Reverse Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Added a big bullseye rock chip to the windshield directly in front of the driver just below the vertical center line. The thing is a good 24 mm at the moment, probably going to add cracks soon. Was up the canyon again and on my way out and a side by side passed me going up. Somehow it not only kicked the rock up and to his left, but threw it to the front as well. Oh well, at least I have 0 deductable on my glass with the insurance on my truck. Yet something else to deal with sometime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustFlames Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Powdercoated my brake lines, didn’t have a flare wrench, used vice grips to crack them then used a 10mm to finnish them off, the one on the passenger side of the frame threaded into that strange like brass spacer, ( possibly a check valve) needed to be vice wrenched out the whole way, I believe Ie coated every piece of fastener in the engine bay area now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodman Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 I just changed the oil and engine coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 Replaced the fuel sending unit with a used one. No fuel leak now but my gas gauge still doesn't seem to work right, although now it isn't bouncing all over the place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustFlames Posted April 17, 2020 Share Posted April 17, 2020 Replaced the u-joints in my rear driveshaft, and of course I powdercoated while I had it out, taping off the holes where the caps sit was tricky to say the least but took my time and It came out beautiful, the rust behind the yoke the enters the transmission was pretty bad and hard to reach in the sandblast cabinet, I used the old caps to pound in the new ones, RIP 5/8” socket( used it to pound out the old caps)The part numbers, got from napa for the front driveshaft are UJ393 The the rear driveshaft is UJ446The color is called peeka blueSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 Replaced the alarm siren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preacher Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Installed new wipers and put graphite in the locks. The truck sat for a long time. I also installed an android auto head unit with a backup camera. Now I'm waiting on new hubs to arrive. The gap at the bottom irritates me to no end, but the dash kit from Crutchfield simply doesn't do any good and it's the only one they show. I'm not good at fabricating stuff, so no danger of me coming up with an idea on my own. The next big job will be detailing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Not my pathfinder but I put the knock sensor wiring back to stock on my Xterra. Runs great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainGoat Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Went out exploring last weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHR Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 Hello everyone, the lock down has allowed to do surprising thing... I had my old pathy was parked for too long and this is what I have done so far. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tn95rbn Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Swapped out my 95 factory console for a 99 console.uca frame bolts haven't moved since they spoke japanese,but trying to get at the bushings. My camber is way off..centerlink patiently waiting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 Replaced the transmission mount. After test driving it is confirmed that literally all of my cabin vibrations were coming from the broken mount... thought it was my tires.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 Double post 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted May 25, 2020 Share Posted May 25, 2020 Technically yesterday but installed my locker finally. Nobody told me how heavy this thing was gonna be In the process though I found that one brake cable is stuck in the backing plate and my driver side hard line twisted offSent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 Wait until you have to remove the front diff by yourself...haha. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 18 hours ago, adamzan said: Wait until you have to remove the front diff by yourself...haha. I find that easier as theres more places to grab and secure lol. Now the front diff from a durango can suck it lol those things are awful to remove as it's like everything gets in your way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Reverse Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Just wait till you pull the t-case. That little thing is heavier than the trans. If you have the drum brakes, make sure you get that little spacer block in the center of the diff, into the middle of the locker. Made that mistake on my buddies 95 when we swapped centers between our trucks. Mine has rear disc, his had drums. He wanted my LED, I wanted his open for a locker. We made the swaps in my driveway the night before a week in Moab. Didn't realize that little block needed to be removed from his center and put into mine that was going into his truck. 4 hours down the highway, stopped for fuel and found the right axle seal in his truck died. Got to Moab, replaced the seal and bearing in camp, and a couple days later was leaking again. Got home, replaced seal and bearing again, installed the block and problem never came back. Such fun. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Just wait till you pull the t-case. That little thing is heavier than the trans. If you have the drum brakes, make sure you get that little spacer block in the center of the diff, into the middle of the locker. Made that mistake on my buddies 95 when we swapped centers between our trucks. Mine has rear disc, his had drums. He wanted my LED, I wanted his open for a locker. We made the swaps in my driveway the night before a week in Moab. Didn't realize that little block needed to be removed from his center and put into mine that was going into his truck. 4 hours down the highway, stopped for fuel and found the right axle seal in his truck died. Got to Moab, replaced the seal and bearing in camp, and a couple days later was leaking again. Got home, replaced seal and bearing again, installed the block and problem never came back. Such fun.Are you talking about that spacer piece that sort of floats between the axle ends? If so I made sure that was in there when I did the locker. Is it different with disc brakes?And I'll agree about the t-case. I'm pretty sure it's on par with the weight of an auto tranny lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Double post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Triple post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Reverse Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 (edited) Lol, yep, that little block floating in there keeps the axles pressed into the bearings. The rear disc H233B uses a double bearing setup so doesn't have the spacer. As my buddy and I discovered, very important in the drum brake axle. And as far as weight of the T-case, it is heavier than the auto trans my truck has. Tough though, only parts I haven't messed with in the 21 years with my Pathfinder is the front diff and t-case. Edited May 27, 2020 by Mr_Reverse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Lol, yep, that little block floating in there keeps the axles pressed into the bearings. The rear disc H233B uses a double bearing setup so doesn't have the spacer. As my buddy and I discovered, very important in the drum brake axle. And as far as weight of the T-case, it is heavier than the auto trans my truck has. Tough though, only parts I haven't messed with in the 21 years with my Pathfinder is the front diff and t-case. Would it hurt to leave it in there with the disc brakes or should it be removed?Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Reverse Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 No idea. Mine didn't have it. I suspect that it might prevent proper assembly since the axle shaft is different between the disc and drum brake H233B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCWD21 Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 3 minutes ago, Mr_Reverse said: No idea. Mine didn't have it. I suspect that it might prevent proper assembly since the axle shaft is different between the disc and drum brake H233B. That's good to know, I've only seen where people swapped to discs but left out all the important little details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Reverse Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Easiest way to go to disc brakes in my opinion is to just swap the whole axle assembly. My local salvage yards sell complete axle assemblies for about $75, so just makes sense to me. Also need the master cylinder and park brake cables, but for less than $200, a simple and inexpensive way to upgrade the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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