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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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Here is the midway point of putting the rack on! Still need to be prepped and painted. Anybody know where to buy those jack nuts so I don't have to pull the headliner. (Decided that's to much work..lol!) Still need to fab blocks for the rear mounts. f7fd86e2da3449723386b678fc7d4a11.jpg

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added this brush guard. yes i know there is a missing bar and the bottom brackets are far a part. it can't be helped until i get back to colorado where my tools are at.

 

SAM_1051%20copy_zpsgc8k3hxx.jpg

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Just did some minor aesthetic spray painting, fixed up the paint chipped wiper arms with some new gloss black and repainted the three bonnet plastic inserts on the front gloss black. Sanded everything first then primer coated, sanded smooth with 600 grit then applied top coat.

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Ordered new superlift UCA's yesterday. Got a great price from rugged rocks. Hopefully this will be the end of my front end woes after the grassroots CL and new control arms.

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Ordered new superlift UCA's yesterday. Got a great price from rugged rocks. Hopefully this will be the end of my front end woes after the grassroots CL and new control arms.

I just installed a set of them. They literally made my truck ride better than I thought a pathfinder could ride! So smooth up front now I don't even feel minor road imperfections anymore. Feels a lot more like a full size truck the way it rides now. Very stable and very little disruption of the front end on the broken down roads where I live. You will like them I think! I got mine for 200$ on summit

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It's okay I got a 20$ gift certificate for my next summit purchase so I consider that close enough to 180! Lol you will really enjoy them though!

 

The bushing fitment is WAY better than the energy suspension or prothane equivalents too. The sleeves actually press onto the spindles, they don't just slip on. The bushings are the correct length and require np trimming, plus the bushings have molded in grease channels to actually maintain lubrication using the zerk fittings. So glad I went with them

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I have the A/C control arms (I have 2 sets actually, one I bought from a member here, another I was given) but one got bent in a collision so it is useless unless fixed. But I think I am running too much lift now as the ball joint angle is excessive and is probably why the truck is destroying upper ball joints. Although it's only the passenger side which is odd.

 

The correct bushing fitment is probably worth it the most. fskc trimming @!*%. If I'm spending that much on parts, they better farking fit!

 

Do I actually need a press or can I use a vice or something?

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As much as I've loved having my timing advanced slightly (more high-rpm power), I think its time to go back to standard. The lack of low-end torque is starting to get annoying from stoplights, especially now that its no longer cold out, so the truck doesn't stay at 1500 until it warms up. Before, it would usually warm up right as I got on the highway, so the stoplights up to the highway were buttery-smooth shifts.

The advanced timing leaves a torque gap at around 1700-2200 rpm, so its more work than normal to rev match. Oh well... goodbye 19mpg highway!

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I have the A/C control arms (I have 2 sets actually, one I bought from a member here, another I was given) but one got bent in a collision so it is useless unless fixed. But I think I am running too much lift now as the ball joint angle is excessive and is probably why the truck is destroying upper ball joints. Although it's only the passenger side which is odd.

 

The correct bushing fitment is probably worth it the most. fskc trimming @!*%. If I'm spending that much on parts, they better farking fit!

 

Do I actually need a press or can I use a vice or something?

The bushings just press in by hand once lubricated but I had to press the sleeves on. I just used the big fat bushing washer that holds the bushing in place and the end of the spindle nut and an electric impact to drive the sleeve on. Then once the sleeve bites into the inner spindle washer (it's serrated on the ends) u can remove the bushing washer and spindle nut and assemble it all by hand from there. No extra tools needed I just used the hardware that was on the spindle already to press the sleeves on.

 

to remove the factory bushing sleeves I used a razor knife to cut away a section of rubber from the sleeve and the used an angle grinder and a cut off disc to CAREFULLY slice the sleeve from end to end (being careful not to cut into the actual spindle material). I had to grind away the inner corner were it meets up against the fatter part of the spindle to get it all the way through. Once it's sliced down the length of the sleeve, it should slide off pretty easy with a pair of channel locks twisting and pulling at the same time.

Edited by Nefarious
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That's good to know. My friend has a press but it's a 45 minute drive and I rather not have the truck apart on a sunday afternoon again, lol.

 

Work needed is starting to really pile up...Exhaust is leaking really bad from the flange under my feet now...That and the steering is so loose it feels like I'm going to lose a wheel. I really need to get the engine put in the other pathy so I can drive it.

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Just had my Bilstein shocks and struts installed on my 05. $307 parts (4wheelpart) and $235 labor.

Can't really tell much difference. Wasn't bouncing before. Just turns seemed loose, and 4 people in the car was rough.

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Been away for a wee while on vacation so left the truck in the hands of my father to borrow. Left my Moog "problem solvers" in the back and he gave the truck back to me with them installed, That's a win! :happy:

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Been away for a wee while on vacation so left the truck in the hands of my father to borrow. Left my Moog "problem solvers" in the back and he gave the truck back to me with them installed, That's a win! :happy:

moog problem solver inner tie rods for 2wd swap? If so, those things are beast! We installed them on my wife's rig and they are still solid as the day we put them in 20 000 km later and many offroad adventures

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moog problem solver inner tie rods for 2wd swap? If so, those things are beast! We installed them on my wife's rig and they are still solid as the day we put them in 20 000 km later and many offroad adventures

 

Those are the ones mate! Contemplating changing the 4wd ones over too as they got more play than I desire

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Those are the ones mate! Contemplating changing the 4wd ones over too as they got more play than I desire

might as well do it all at once, save $ on alignment that way !

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Not a troubleshooting thread :togo:

 

But, if your using a stock belt then it should not be a problem, unless A: they gave you the wrong belt. B: your have something limiting the adjusters range of travel. C: your doing it wrong!

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they gave me the wrong belt :thumbsdown:

 

Replaced all of my belts today.... $45 cuz all NAPA had was the good ones (guess I can't complain) No more slipping and squealing!!

Unfortunately, when I was tightening the alternator adjuster, the bolt head sheared, so I had to leverage a crowbar against the alternator in order to set the tension.. booo

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Unfortunately, when I was tightening the alternator adjuster, the bolt head sheared, so I had to leverage a crowbar against the alternator in order to set the tension.. booo

 

Seen how small that bolt is? I always use a lever to move the alty and never rely on that tiny little bolt to do it, to easy to.. well.. shear it off ;)

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