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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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It's not hard to keep your paint nice. As green machine just prooved you don't need to spend a lot on wax. Just avoid armor all.

Never armor all. I use turtle wax trim restore on tires and trim. After It dries its like a matte finish and dark.
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Replaced the corner lights and front grille (which was faded and starting to crack) with chrome ones from RockAuto. They look great, but now the bumper looks horrible. I gonna hold off on replacing that, though, until I find a first gen brush guard (the kind that attaches to the fron of the bumper using the bumper bolts) or find a 93-95 chromed bumper in decent shape at a JY.

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I mean, the paint on mine has zero factory clear coat left, not to mention the fact that its white so its not exactly a reflective color to begin with.

Did you strip your paint that much doing paint correction that now it's all gone or what happened? You could respray a new clear coat. Imperfections would hardly be visible on white.

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Finally got around to replacing the rear right tail/brake light receptacle. The tail light contact was worn out to the point of not working.

 

Used solder and heat shrink to attach the one from my parts truck. Gotta love free fixes!

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I mean, the paint on mine has zero factory clear coat left, not to mention the fact that its white so its not exactly a reflective color to begin with.

Mine is white and when you look down the side of it you can see your reflection in it. Sounds like you need to buff and wax your truck.

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You won't know if the wires are working fine or not, unless they are really bad. You can test your ignition wires as per fsm. There is a spec in there. I don't remember exactly but it was around 1 or 2 K ohm per foot of length. It's in there somewhere

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I mean, the paint on mine has zero factory clear coat left, not to mention the fact that its white so its not exactly a reflective color to begin with.

 

Sorry but I gotta call BS on that, because unless you sanded/stripped it, there is no way that "all" of the clear coat is gone, without... at the minimum... serious damage to the white underneath it.

 

My clear coat is in sorry shape, but it's not even close to all being gone. Most but not all of the hood, then the tops of the fenders, panel below windshield, top portions of the rear fender budges' all have patches of no clear coat or spotted areas.. but most of it is there and the red will be gone in spots long before the rest of the clear is gone.

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Did you strip your paint that much doing paint correction that now it's all gone or what happened? You could respray a new clear coat. Imperfections would hardly be visible on white.

 

There were a lot of those little rust spots forming on it when I bought it, and in the process of removing them, most of the clear coat was removed. Only the rear quarters still shine w/o heavy waxing

Edited by CO_pathfinder
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Sorry but I gotta call BS on that, because unless you sanded/stripped it, there is no way that "all" of the clear coat is gone, without... at the minimum... serious damage to the white underneath it.

 

My clear coat is in sorry shape, but it's not even close to all being gone. Most but not all of the hood, then the tops of the fenders, panel below windshield, top portions of the rear fender budges' all have patches of no clear coat or spotted areas.. but most of it is there and the red will be gone in spots long before the rest of the clear is gone.

You knew I wasn't being literal.... thats why I didn't bold/italicize/underline the statement in my original post

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No, I didn't... this is the internet with text not tone, I took it for what you offered :togo: When you say "zero" and give no indication otherwise, it is taken as such. If it's not zero, don't say that it is or add "something" that gives a clue otherwise.

 

And yes I added the bold, italicize & underline but that was to emphasize, within the quote, exactly what I was calling BS on.. or in otherwords I gave an indication as to what I was referring and how I meant it ;)

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