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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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Put in a new fuel filter. Old one was definitely the 16 year old original as the brackets essentially disintegrated as I tried to undo it. Zap straps to the rescue lol. So much for, " you know you're a redneck when..."

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Repaired the drivers' power window issue ( disconnected blue/orange wire from the power amp. connector). Repaired the inoperable speedo ( disconnected plastic thingy from the cable was stuck in the back of the cluster and not clipped to the cable) and marvelled at the sheer amount of frame welding I am going to be doing this summer.

 

Oy. Vay. Shmears.

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Replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

Any particular reason why? Any noticeable difference after?

I'm up in the air with my decision to do this. I don't feel there is a need, I checked some of the plugs and they looked pretty good. I just feel due to the age it might be time. But then again don't want to waste money if I don't have to. Thanks

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Any particular reason why? Any noticeable difference after?

I'm up in the air with my decision to do this. I don't feel there is a need, I checked some of the plugs and they looked pretty good. I just feel due to the age it might be time. But then again don't want to waste money if I don't have to. Thanks

 

It's part of the regularly scheduled maintenance. I'm not sure on the actual numbers, I'll have to check my manual. however plugs and wires do wear out over time and will not deliver the same hot spark they did when new. my engine was idling funny for quite some time, not missing it just sounded like one or more cylinders were not firing properly, OBD2 through a Knock Sensor code, so I asked myself....Self, is the sensor bad or is it detecting a knock? I had changed the plugs last year but due to budgetary constraints I hadn't done the wires. so I did along with the distributor cap and rotor. Check out my build thread for some photos of the rotor it was all charged on the end and the contacts inside the cap were covered with a sort of scaling. no doubt about it there is a difference now. she purrs like a kitten and I have noticed better acceleration through 1st and 2nd gear. also my exhaust no longer smells like unburned fuel on cold start ups. I cleared the knock sensor code and it hasn't come back. well see if she gets better fuel economy as well.

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Yeah I've been buying from them too. Thanks. Another question, I've done my transmission fluid and front and rear diffs. Now I just finished greasing my propeller shaft (sounds dirty lol) and noticed that there are drain and filler plugs on the "Center diff?!" Not sure if this is part of the transmission but it seems connected, so my question is should this take ATF instead of gear oil? I've read both should never be mixed.

 

This is what I'm talking about:

55ab93c45935437c5aad85c24449c39f.jpg

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I couldn't remember what I used so I checked my NISSAN owners manual, it calls for Nisan Matic "D" or Canada nissan auto trans fluid or DEXTRON 3/MERCON. there is a pinned how to topic in the R50 section.

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That's the transfer case it is a separate part. I think it uses atf fluid. Matic d or something

 

And I put new parts on it because they were a few years old. It was only 120 total, with military discount. Without it would have been like 135, so not to expensive. I was also trying to figure out why I have a stumble when it's cold and idling, it's not the parts that I changed by the way.

Edited by Bubbley11
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Ack'd thanks. I have both fluids here from previous changes just wasn't sure what this part is called even (Center diff?!) so not sure how to look it up. Thanks bushnut!

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Commonly known as a Transfer case or TCase for short. as in it transfers power to the front wheels. along with having a reduction gear in it (4LO). its kinda like a short transmission with a 180* bend in it.

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Thanks. Knowing what to research has helped me find the answers I was looking for. Also learned that it takes close to 2 qt to refill, which made me hold off on it as I only have 1 qt left from my ATF change. And to confirm, as above both fluids have been cited as usable, I've learned that on older models both could be used, whereas 95+ ATF is recommended. Different viscosity and in case there would be a leak between the transmission and the TCase, there would be no cross contamination. Thanks for the assistance boys.

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FWIW I usually just buy my tune up parts locally, like a crappy tire. I don't have to wait and the shipping makes it not really worth it for me most of the time.

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Drove him to work this morning, getting ready to clean out my crap, collect the extra stuff that's gonna go with him and build myself to accept putting the old black and orange on...

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Unfortunately. I don't have the time for him anymore and would be a terrible tragedy to let him sit as a lawn ornimant and start to rot. Rather see him move on and get love back than me be greedy and let him waste away

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