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What oil do you run?


XSrcing
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5W30 and whatevers on sale for my WD21. I like the test Consumer Reports did on all the oils years ago. They pretty much said don't change it until about 5000 miles or your wasting your money, synthetic and synthetic blends are a waste of money for the everyday driver, use what your owners manual tells you too or your gonna waste fuel with thicker oil with no benefit whatsoever, use Fram oil filters if you want the best filtering, and try to stay with the same brand of oil if you can for the life of the engine. Their testing was pretty unique too if you get a chance to read it. The company is pretty kick ass and unbiased and not to be confused with Consumers Union which is a ripoff of them and total BS.

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5W30 and whatevers on sale for my WD21. I like the test Consumer Reports did on all the oils years ago. They pretty much said don't change it until about 5000 miles or your wasting your money, synthetic and synthetic blends are a waste of money for the everyday driver, use what your owners manual tells you too or your gonna waste fuel with thicker oil with no benefit whatsoever, use Fram oil filters if you want the best filtering, and try to stay with the same brand of oil if you can for the life of the engine. Their testing was pretty unique too if you get a chance to read it. The company is pretty kick ass and unbiased and not to be confused with Consumers Union which is a ripoff of them and total BS.

That right there is bull@!*%. Fram filters are crap. The best filter for the wd21 is the oem Nissan filter. When I switched my wd21 to synthetic 2 weeks after I bought it the difference was immediate. It ran smoother and the lifters never tick. Also I regularly get 20mpg+ on the highway. Another member here who lives near me experienced the same thing when he switched. Also with the fram filters they have ****** cardboard end caps that are glued on. Yeah I'm not spinning that onto the side of my engine.

 

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html#fram

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5W30 and whatevers on sale for my WD21. I like the test Consumer Reports did on all the oils years ago. They pretty much said don't change it until about 5000 miles or your wasting your money, synthetic and synthetic blends are a waste of money for the everyday driver, use what your owners manual tells you too or your gonna waste fuel with thicker oil with no benefit whatsoever, use Fram oil filters if you want the best filtering, and try to stay with the same brand of oil if you can for the life of the engine. Their testing was pretty unique too if you get a chance to read it. The company is pretty kick ass and unbiased and not to be confused with Consumers Union which is a ripoff of them and total BS.

 

Yet more garbage from Consumer Reports. Fram filters use a weak filter element and a cardboard cap known to deteriorate quickly. They are a terrible filter in every respect. Use Nissan (Bosch), Purolator, or WIX (NAPA Gold) for the best filtration and anti-drain back. Thicker oil is used to make up for the greater differences in bearing tolerances that come from age/mileage. The hydraulic lifters also wear out, and have a harder time keeping thinner oil past the o-rings, using thicker oil will help them out with staying pumped up. The viscosity difference in the oils isn't enough to make a noticeable impact on mileage and power output, usually.

 

It also depends on how good your piston rings are, crank case ventilation system, valve seats, etc. for how often the oil needs to be changed. Some engines after only a few thousand miles will have a strong presence of gasoline in the oil, it's good to change it then.

 

I run Chevron brand 10W30. Chevron is the most highly detergent and cleaning oils out on the market.

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OK, I gotta be differant....

I just used this recipie on my 94 and its starting to run quieter But I been running it for some time in my 89 and she purrs.

The Castrol GTX High Mileage is a decent priced and just above average quality dyno oil.

The Royal Rurple Is a top line, expensive synthetic oil that contains ZDDP and is blendable.

The Schneider Racing Cams Formula 3 is ZDDP rich and keeps my waranty in tact.(my 89)

 

OIL;

2qt= 5w30 Castrol GTX High Mileage

2qt=10w30 Royal Rurple

4oz=Schneider Formula 3

 

Now Wait, the 4x4 VG only holds 3.5qt of oil... Yes, on my 89 I have a remote kit running to my tranny crosmember and I use a slightly taller filter. This filter also fits on my 94 with no remote kit and is easier to install/ remove because it stick out from the manifold a little more. Here her are the Part number cross references I use in order of preference.

I usually get the Bosch because it is most redily available.

 

#1) Purolator PureONE - PL20195

 

2) Bosch - 3422

 

3) Mobil 1 - M1209

 

4) K&N - HP2009

 

5) Motorcraft - FL400S

 

6) FRAM Tough Guard TG3600 (all other FRAM oil filters are inferior)

#Note the PureONE is very dense filter element, it will restrict flow the most when it is clogged. If you have a dirty engine you'll have to change filter more often or run one of the others untill you get it running clean.

 

Edited by MY1PATH
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Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic

Mobil 1 filter

 

x2

 

I use either Mobil 1 synthetic or Motul synthetic oil with a Mobil 1 or a Nissan OEM filter.

I never tried 10W-30 for the summer but that is acceptable.

 

5W-30 for winter definitely.

Tip: Use the placard on the hood (if you still have it :lol:)

 

FYI: Do your own research and don't be the idiot that reads Cuntsumer Reports

Edited by Tungsten
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4 quarts 15w40 castrol gtx high mileage (was on sale last oil purchase-generally whatever 1 gallon jug of 15w40 is on sale)

1 quart Lucas

carquest redbox oil filter (they just recently changed numbers on the boxes, don't know off hand the new number)

 

 

 

I wouldnt put a fram on my worst enemys lawn mower...

 

edit

 

FYI: Do your own research and don't be the idiot that reads Cuntsumer Reports

x2

Edited by nunya
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I have to admit that I omitted some key info on my comment previously, sorry to stir up the hornets nest in here. Obviously this topic is a highly debated one and hits a nerve with some. All I can say is if I pissed you off, sorry, get a life brother and get over it. It's motor oil....who really gives a S@%&. Secondly and most importantly, this test was done 15 years ago and alot has changed since then obviously, maybe for the worse with Fram I guess. I've always tried to buy there products anyways based on that testing back then, and personally have never had a failure with an engine or their products. Synthectics were still realitively new to the mainstream consumer oil market back then as well (even though it had been around well before that time), and there was still some confusion over the pros and cons of synthetics. I don't think i'm an Idiot for reading Consumer Reports (thanks for that comment though). I do however read as much as I can on alot of topics in life, and do manage to form my own opinions much like all of you have done, based on more sources than just one. But when it's all said and done, I guess maybe I haven't read enough material or have seen enough real world testing on motor oil to convince me either way which one of the many choices we have is truly the best. Everyone here has an opinion and that's what makes forums like this so great, so you can come to your own comclusion based on the information given and information you have collected up to that point as well. Here is that article, again written 15 years ago, so take it or leave it, who cares: http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/xs11-info/articles/51-consumer-reportstruth-motor-oils-july-1996.html

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And to add to my old ass facts again, the oil filter test done on my precious Fram filters was done in 1987. So again, I just have always assumed (gotta love that word) that the Frams stayed good quality. But from just doing some small researching around the web tonight, it does appear they do indeed now make an inferior product and have for awhile now, which is dissapointing. So I admit my information is outdated I guess. There, I admitted it. Happy? lol.........

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Since Fram went super corporate and forgot about quality control, I will never use them again. Only time I have ever cut open on oil filter to find a section out of the Korean newspaper.

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these new fram filters are much better than the orange ones.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1845821&page=1

 

100_3908.jpg

 

they are built as well as any other premium filter out there

 

I used to use the tough guard series, but i have never sacrificed one to see whats inside. I did cut one open after I changed it out for a new one, and everything was still intact. Now i have been using napa gold and they work fine. I will usually change my filter at 5000km and then change the filter and oil at 10000k.

 

I used to use castrol, but i have switched over to synthetic oil. I tried mobil 1 and now I use royal purple since the last 3 oil changes. I didn't notice a difference in power etc. The oil is still dirty when I drain it. I hear that you won't realize the benefits of oils with detergents immediately. more like 4 changes later and by that time, you will have forgotten how it drove that long ago.

 

 

5w30 winter

10w30 summer

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yes It takes a while to clean out the inside of the engine. 1/2 can of seafoam or 8oz of ATF 100 miles before each oil change will help clean it out faster.

Aslo consider changing your oil early while its getting dirty fast to protect the lifters from the freshly suspended dirt.

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Valvoline full synthetic 5w-30w year round. Change every 5000 miles and my truck leaks and or burns about 1/2 a quart in the 5000 miles.

 

Never thought filter brands made a lot of difference as long as it wasn't a real cheapo but I should find one good type and stick with it.

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I use the Valvoline synthetic when I can as well. Other than that I use mobil1 or whatever the oil change place around the corner uses (during winter I'm lazy).

 

5w30 usually and sometimes 5w50 in the summer

 

For filters I use OEM nissan, purolator, or a motomaster (store brand in canada).

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