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Everything posted by trenton163
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I see, thanks for the clarification!
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Thanks for the reply! I guess I am unclear as to the reason for taking them apart. Unless I am missing something, it seems like it would be better to keep them bolted together and just remove both as a whole? As for the timing marks, don't you align them with the mark on the cover and there is a key on the crank to keep the marks aligned so as long as they are set correctly before you remove them they should install them same way? Sorry if I am asking the same question over again.
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Hi Everyone, I have potentially a dumb question. I am getting ready to change my timing belt. It will be the biggest item I have done to date and I want to make sure I know everything before I start. On the VG30E I know you need a crank puller to take the harmonic balancer off but do you need to take all the bolts off as well or just the big crank pulley bolt?
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Hi Everyone, It has been awhile but I wanted to update this and follow up with a few more questions. I did the following last weekend: Pumped out all the old gas from the tank. I went through the pump so I could see the inside of the tank. Since it was stored in a Garage in CA there was no rust. Bled the Brakes and greased the caliper pins. Thanks to everyone for suggesting this, the brake fluid was really old and I definitely felt a difference replacing it! Changed the power steering fluid, Oil change, New battery, After a little hesitation she started right up with no warning lights . I pumped up the tires and drove it around a few blocks with no issues. Here is where things go bad and I need some advice. I went go get a smog test so I could pay all the back fees and it passed all the tests except for the last one. It was a Evap pressure test. It looks like there is a leak between the gas tank and the charcoal canister. The Smog guy said that it usually is a bad fuel filler neck and this is a common failure for older cars. Does anyone know of a common fail point to check first? The next question is a bout the doors. I know that I have the common door lock timer fail as it locks itself a lot even with the key in the ignition. My problem is that I cant unlock the rear passenger doors, I can see the pin try and move up and down when I try and lock and unlock but is feels stuck. Are you able to take to door Panel off with the door closed or do I need to get a slim jim to open it? I know that some of this may sound like I should just go out and try it myself; but the truck is about a 7 drive away from me so I have to try and remote diagnose problems first and then try them out. Thanks again everyone, any advice is welcome!
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Awesome job! Keep up the great work and keep us updated!
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There is a lot of videos online. try searching for a xterra or frontier as they will have a similar process
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Awesome, thanks for all of the info everyone. I will most likey start this whole process in a couple of months once I get enough funds together. I will let everyone know if I succeed haha!
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Thanks for all of the info everyone! I definitely will take all of your advice. As far as the fuel goes, is best to pump it out through the cap or do I need to remove the pump? Which I believe is under the rear cargo area carpet? I really do not want to drop the tank but I will if I have to. Thanks again everyone.
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Hi Everyone, It's been awhile since I have been on here. Since my last activity on here I have moved, gone to college and started my career. All the while my pathfinder has been siting in my garage back home waiting to be resurrected... I has been sitting in an enclosed garage for about 8 years. these are the things that I know that I am going to do to get it back on the road: -Replace all fluids, Oil, ATF, PS, PB -Remove old gas, (I foolishly didn't put in any fuel stabilizer) -Replace Battery -Possibly new tires? ( they where almost brand new last time I drove it and they are still holding air, but there may be flat spots) Can anybody suggest anything that I maybe forgetting or overlooking. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks
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Cool. Thanks for the help. I have looked online for the parts. I can see that I can buy the regulator separately so there has to be a way to take them apart. I just can't figure it out.
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Okay, so my drivers side rear window regulator broke( 92 pathfinder). I have gone to junk yards and ebay and have replaced it with 3 of them and all have broken on me. I now have one where the regulator itself works, but the motor is crap, and another where the motor is great but the track is broke. I have tried to switch them but all I got was a busted finger. Does any one know how to switch these? I really don't want to take it to a body shop. Also, has anyone else had any issues with the plastic bits breaking on them? The first one that I had worked great but the plastic clips that hold it together and stop it from raising and lowering broke. If anyone can help I would be much appreciated Thanks Trenton
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So I was under my truck today and I noticed that my steering gear is leaking (a small amount) of fluid from the front. The whole front drivers side seems to be covered in oil/fluid. I think that this is a really old leak that I just haven't really noticed. I will try to get some pics posted, but I was wondering if anyone knows what it could be and/or how hard it is to fix? I was looking on rockauto and a seal kit is like 30 bucks, I'm just wondering how hard it would be to do? Thanks Trenton
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Worst part, they moved the rear door handles lol
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what do ya think? http://www.autoguide.com/gallery/gallery.php/v/main/auto-shows/2012-detroit-auto-show/nissan/2013-pathfinder/2013-Nissan-Pathfinder-Concept-10.JPG.html
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My front ones didn't spray, I replaced the pump (it was filled with build up) and now the front work great. My rear does the same thing as yours, So I would make sure that all your pumps are clean. If they are dirty you can run some clr through them and see if that helps. I didn't work with mine so I spent 20 bucks and got a new one! Good luck.
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I used a lot Of pb blaster, in series with the impact wrench. It just took a long time for them to finally break free.
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But where's the fun in that? How did you know I running on doughnuts! haha! Will the new strut bushings affect it at all?
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I am in the process of a front end rebuild ans so far I have replaced the all of the tierod ends torsion bars and strut rods. I am going to take it in for a alignment but before I do I have a question. When I installed my torsion bars I tightened them until I got the ride hight where I want it ( about 31.75 at the lip and about .5" at the upper bump stop). But now when I go around turns at around 40 mph or more my tires squeal really loud. So my question is that will a alignment fix the problem or should I back off the T bars a little? I really dont want to as now the truck is level and everything. Any advice would be great. Thanks
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I did it! Thanks for all the help guys!
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Dont quote me on it, but I think I remember on here one time that it could be a failing alternator. May want to check it out. Mine flicker everyone and a while but I also think that it is the dimmer switch. Good luck.
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Alright thanks for all the help guys, hopefuly I can tackle this project over the weekend.
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Does anyone have any tips on how to get the tension rod off so I can can replace the bushings? I have used a .5" breaker bar and a electric impact wrench and they still wont come off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am going to get a alignment soon and I dont want to have to pay a shop to do something as simple as this. Thanks, Trenton
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I have that same stereo !!
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Okay so I finally got around to taking it apart and I found that the harness that connects the wires to the dome light assembly looks like it could be shot. I will post some pics when I get a chance. Does anyone know how to get a new one? I have looked online and I can't seem to find it.
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I read some where on here that the rear door latch goes bad, could that affect the dome light? The rear works fine. I took the assembly off and everything looks good, changed the fuse and the bulb. any more ideas? Thanks