FUELER Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 What are the 90-05 automatic hubs? And how are they diferent from locked drive flanges? Thanks! (planning on doing warn hubs on a 95) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavefromOZ Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 The auto hubs are free wheeling when in 2wd, but as soon as you put the truck into 4wd and start driving, they automatically lock allowing the front wheels to be driven. They automatically disengage when you reverse the truck for a certain distance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 What!! Then what is the point of warn hubs on a nissan equipped with automatic hubs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbdevega Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 autos are crap, i can vouche for them not properly engaging and even pre-maturaly engaging. hell the whole reason i swapped to manuals was because my auto decided to engage when i was going 70mph on the highway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 It's the reliability and strength of manual hubs. Autos are convenient, because they engage and disengage automatically. All the driver needs to do is shift into 4wd and go, then when done, shift back into 2wd and back up a few feet and they disengage. But there are two distinct disadvantages to them. There is a dead spot where you will not have 4wd. When you shift into 4wd, you must move forward or back before they engage. If your stuck and cannot move, then they will not engage. Along with that, is when changing directions, they must unlock, then lock back in in the opposite direction. Although not normally a problem for the average driver, it can be a major one for those who engage in the off road hobby. The second problem is that they are not as strong as a positive locking manual hub. Stock Nissan hubs found on Hardbody trucks and after market hubs are, as a rule, stronger and more reliable than the auto's are. Drive flanges are a permanent non-selectable (auto or manual) lock, coupling the wheels to the axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 autos are crap, i can vouche for them not properly engaging and even pre-maturaly engaging. hell the whole reason i swapped to manuals was because my auto decided to engage when i was going 70mph on the highway. Meh, not always the case. Generally they work fine, but as with anything mechanical, over time they wear and can quit operating as designed. Rebuilding them will restore them to factory. But, for most wheelers manuals are the preferred option. Or flanges if the rig is hardcore and dedicated to off road use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbdevega Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Meh, not always the case. Generally they work fine, but as with anything mechanical, over time they wear and can quit operating as designed. Rebuilding them will restore them to factory.But, for most wheelers manuals are the preferred option. Or flanges if the rig is hardcore and dedicated to off road use. I have a friend who Frontier had auto hub issues from the factory, first time he toke it out the hubs never engaged. Ive never been a fan of the nissan auto's because the way the function is rather sluggist to begin with. but yeah the average driver will almost never have issues about them and may even rave about how great they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 I have a friend who Frontier had auto hub issues from the factory, first time he toke it out the hubs never engaged. Exceptions to every rule Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 i havent had a problem with my auto hubs. I have gotten stuck a few times in 2wd and been able to get out after putting it into 4hi, the front driveshaft turns the diff, which turns the axles, which then eventually locks the hubs allowing self extraction. It was one thing that I like about my truck over my buddies toyota with warns. But as soon as I find a set, I'm swapping to manuals, preferably nissan stock from a HB... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigred07 Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 some one on here said before they broke one of the cv axles and because they had manual hubs was able to just turn off that one and then gett out of the trail with three wheel drive... And what is a flange? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 some one on here said before they broke one of the cv axles and because they had manual hubs was able to just turn off that one and then gett out of the trail with three wheel drive... Unless they had a locker of some sort, I highly doubt it because the open diff would have sent power to the broken side since it would have been the path of least resistance... unless it was completely bound, but that likely would have caused other problems. And what is a flange? Drive flanges are a permanent non-selectable (auto or manual) lock, coupling the wheels to the axles. Which means, even when your transfer case is in 2wd, the entire front drive train is turning, due to the axles being solidly locked to the wheels. R50's had them, WD's to my knowledge, never did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 my auto hubs are pretty awesome. I haven't had a single issue out of them. Although they don't seem to want to be removed to help me replace my axle lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 my auto hubs are pretty awesome. I haven't had a single issue out of them. Although they don't seem to want to be removed to help me replace my axle lol The autos are fairly strong on our rigs, however, if you get yourself in a situation where you have to "rock" the truck (forward/reverse a bunch of times) you'll find that the autos unlock/relock with every change in direction. While this happens relatively quickly, sometimes even a second of 4wd traction as opposed to 2wd, can be the difference between getting out of the hole, or remaining stuck in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Which means, even when your transfer case is in 2wd, the entire front drive train is turning, due to the axles being solidly locked to the wheels. R50's had them, WD's to my knowledge, never did. I've never seen them on a WD either. I don't believe there was an option for it. They put that on the R50's to increase the speed at which you could engage 4wd on the fly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 I plan on switching to Warns or Nissan manuals, if I can find them, some time soon. I grenaded my passenger hub towing a Jeep out. I was slowly backing up and towing hum, churning mud, low RPMs and BANG. There it went... I've had problems with them not disengaging sometimes on my old Pathfinder, no matter how far I backed up. They did have a lot of miles on them though but I never did break one, and I was HARD on it. In some situations where you need 4-wheel NOW and you can't engage it because the truck can't move, autos really show their weakness. I like the security of having the axles locked under my control and that's all there is to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 If you ever have to use reverse in 4wd you will truly appreciate manual locking hubs. The autos do not give you 4wd in reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 You get it in reverse, you just have to have the vehicle moving in either direction for the hubs to lock. Usually you only need to back up a foot or so, and that's not enough to lock the hubs in so most people think that they just don't lock in reverse. Either that, or the axle shaft spinning so fast (vehicle not moving with a lot of throttle) and the hub locks and goes CLANK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 I hate my autos. They have a mind of their own, and engage and disengage at will. (In 2wd) Hard body hubs are going to be swapped in...if I can find the right set...with the right spline count...or some CV axles and hubs that match... I had a set of Mile Markers on a jeep years back, they were $100 cheaper than warn and I never had an issue...(welded front diff) They make em, I think 4x4 parts has them for $100 or so. Not a bad deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 I only had a problem with mine once and it was because the "brakes" as nissan calls them in the hub was not installed properly so it would come of and the hub wouldn't work anymore. After finally figuring it out I have been using them without issue for a while now. If you wheel a lot, get manuals, if you drive it on the road most of the time and wheel once and a while you can probably stick with the autos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 The auto hubs are free wheeling when in 2wd, but as soon as you put the truck into 4wd and start driving, they automatically lock allowing the front wheels to be driven. They automatically disengage when you reverse the truck for a certain distance. so, u cant just put it on 4wd and take off? and u have to back up to unlock them? and they disengage when changing directions?? what the hell is the point of automatic hubs? (thats what i have, havent got to use them yet) i would rather get out and flip a switch to they are locked in... and what if i get stuck in 2wd? im screwed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Are you sure the Auto's won't engage if you can't move at all? this last winter, I got high ended on a snow bank in 2WD - couldn't go an inch forward or backwards. I locked into 4WD Low and feathered the throttle forward, and with a nice clang the front hubs locked in. Put the pedal down halfway and clawed my way out slowly but surely. Maybe I was just lucky? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 That clang is the problem...spinning the CV axles with the tires not moving sometimes can lock the hubs, but it's the axles spinning and then suddenly locking the tire that can blow them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 If you don't do it everyday they will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 They make em, I think 4x4 parts has them for $100 or so. Not a bad deal. I had just purchased a set of the Mile Marker manual hubs for a 99 R50 from 4 Wheel Parts for $89 out the door. Definitely not as good quality as the Warm Premium, but at 1/2 the price, they are a nice compromise... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 I have gotten stuck plenty of times in 2wd, put the TC into 4hi or 4lo and just feathered the throttle and pulled right through. my hubs don't make any noise when engaging, just a soft click when disengaging, have to REALLY listen for it. Auto hubs are nice in the fact that you don't have to get out into the nasty mud/muck/whatever you're stuck in. Just shift the TC and GOOOOO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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