jbdevega

sounds almost like a short where something is constantly discharging

hey i havent been access the the Ronin Wheelers site for a week or so. has anyone else had any issues with the site.

I mean i press the clutch pedal and attempt to go into gear but end up with a nice grind. Yeah ive already blend it from the firewall then the slave and it made it a little better but its still happening more often when i first bought the truck.

dont use the rubberized undercoat. everyone i know that has used it says it ends up causing more harm then good (water gets trapped in it)

so sense ive bought the vehicle i all ways knew that the clutch doesnt all ways engage when i press the clutch pedal, is this the master or slave cylinder going bad?

hit it with some seafoam and then see if it still smokes.

I heard from a friend the best way to deal with a rusty fram is to strip all the rust and paint off and then repaint the whole frame using a Epoxy enamel...lots of work, the only other options are either reinforce the frame as best as you can(this doesnt work too well i heard) or cut bad peices of the frame out and weld in plates(heard this works much better but eventually theres a limit to this method)

when a tranny loses a gear its usually bad friction plates in the tranny. you can rebuild it but im told its almost a 30+ hour project. your better off just slapping another tranny it, and the stock CPU will work with a manual tranny.

sounds like its all electrical problems with the battery, alternator, and just bad connections. have the battery and alternator checked and replaced if necessary and go pick up some electronic cleaner, try to get a good solid connection out of that plug.

if i remember correctly, for auto's a tranny cooler is a must.

i have one too, i just ignore it and it has never given me a problem.

lol, wow this reminds me of the first time i changed my cv's, toke me almost 2 days. Ive found the easy way to remove the CV is to pop the upper ball joint and TRE off the knuckle, remove the shock, lean the knuckle way forward and slide the CV out using the extra room where the shock would normally be. if that doesnt work then just pop the lower ball joint and pull the whole knuckle out of there, just be careful not to ruin the ball joint boots. as for the diff side, i think i had the best luck with a short socket and a 6" extension. I have to break a bolt loose then rotate the CV to break another loose. having manual hubs helps a lot here, in fact i would recommend removing these bolts first, all you have to do is put the truck in 4wd engage the hub, break the bolt loose, free the hub, turn the cv, engage hub and break another bolt loose.

alignment with the older Pathfinders and Hardbodys is a PITA, i know first hand because i got the run around for the longest time untill I started doing my own alignment. First i will start with the basics on aligning these things. 1. If your lifted or go off roading, the balljoints that are built into the centerlink tend to wear out very quickly and develop a lot of wobble in the steering. I suggest upgrading the centerlink either to a Calmini or HooHaa steering system that doesn't use balljoints in the centerlink. Check the bushing and UCA bolts, i noticed worn out bushing make a huge difference in the alignment while under driving coditions, and also some pathys with repeat alignment problems get the UCA bolts with wear marks in them that cause them to slip out of potions allowing any shims to fall out and causing the UCA to move in and out. Just buy new bushing or bolts, bolts are 14mm x 1.5 thread pattern, also note sometimes 3" lifted pathfinders need extended bolts. Try the following site for extended or replacement bolts http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=20&cs=77&cm=21&cd=1384 2. You can align the camber by just using a level, just put it up against the rims (i had to cut a 16" price of wood so the level aligned up with my rim). just use how far the bubble is off as a guide for shims (i found this is accurate by about 1/16") just loosen the bolts, add the shims, re-tighten the bolts, drive around the block. if camber is still off just pull out the level again and add or remove more shims. Ive never worried about Caster because it never affected my tire wear or alignment much. 3. Adjusting the toe gets a bit interesting because the best way Ive found to do this is to take a measuring tape and just measure the forward most part of the tires and compare that measurement to the rear most part of the tires. Nissan's are known for liking a slight toe in, even while doing this i noticed i can never seem to get the toe 100% correct. I started dong my own alignment because i had the worn out centerlink, worn out UCA bolts, and worn out bushing, and no alignment shop seemed to notice any of those issues. only when i started ripping into my own alignment that i began to notice all these problems explaining why my alignment was all ways off.

most common issue with wheel spacers is when people stack the spacers (adapters) with low backspacing rims, it puts too much stress on the outer hub bearing causing it to wear out quicker. Then there the much smaller risk of snapping parts, ive had this happen to my truck with 2" spacers on 5" bs rims. 2 of the lug had been previously damaged and when they failed all 6 lugs went with them. Only happened to a single wheel and havent had any issues sense i replaced the whole knuckle (losing a tire going 25mph does alot more damage then you think). Anyway im gona stick with adapters and probably gona goto 3" adapters soon anyway, but i highly suggest triple and quadruple checking your lug torque with adapters. hell i would suggest checking them with every oil change, Adapters are good but like stated they increase stress on your stock parts.

cranking the T-bars doesnt damage anything untill you crank them past 2" stock i believe.

never picked up a tire on normal road conditions. did you replace the shocks? I know a guy that use to have a issue like that because the shocks were not long enough.

Ive heard that too.

if its not the alternator then check the battery, it may be going bad. you should be able to check it anywhere for free.

already half way there with T-bars still.

I have a friend who Frontier had auto hub issues from the factory, first time he toke it out the hubs never engaged. Ive never been a fan of the nissan auto's because the way the function is rather sluggist to begin with. but yeah the average driver will almost never have issues about them and may even rave about how great they are.

well im basically running Trailmaster 4" + AC 3", room is so crapped in the wheel well that i wouldnt recommend running coilovers unless you do have the trailmaster lift.

autos are crap, i can vouche for them not properly engaging and even pre-maturaly engaging. hell the whole reason i swapped to manuals was because my auto decided to engage when i was going 70mph on the highway.

i dont think they do because i know the t-bars are preloaded much more then coils.

hmm think 500 lbs is over kill?

lol, funny you ask because i plan on doing this next weekend. only thing is i dunno what the spring rate is of our T-bars so i dunno what coils to get. Well i know that SAS pathys go with 300-400 spring rate but i thought that would be too soft with IFS, then i found out that that the 2nd gen X is only about 300lbs heavyer then our pathys, and they use about 450-500 rate. so now i have 300 lbs coils and 500 lbs coils sitting at my house and i think ill try the 500 first and swap to the 300 if my ride is too stiff. oh and i choose to lose the T-bars because im running IFS on 7" lift, and ive found that the T-bars trasfer weight horribly on top of the fact that ive pretty much beat them so bad that they are starting to bind up.