jbdevega

I need to change the timing belt in my 95 Pathy, but im not sure if i need a puller to pull off the crank shaft pully or not. My chilton says yes but every online how-to guide didnt mention needing a puller. Also i remember someone saying one of the sprokets around the timing belt is prone to breaking, if anyone remembers what that is that would be of great help. Thanks.

Also note that if you lose 2 studs its no biggy on a 6 lug...but if you lose 2 studs that are next to each other, then chances of the other lugs failing is greatly increased.

IF your gona replace one stud you should replace them all. usually when one stud breaks off another is not far behind.

purple with green dots

For UCA's you have 3 options, superlift, AC (4x4parts), and calmini. Calminis are a great product but they cost twice as much as the other UCA's and there power coating has been known to flak off. Superlifts would be the most inexpensive option but they are made for a 2-2.5" lift, while AC and Calmini are made for 2.5-3" lift. I would just check out AC forums and see if any one is selling some used UCA's.

....I hate it when i take my truck to the aligment shop and they add shims...you can acually fix the aligment in the pathfinders by adjusted the T-bars. I prefer that because i noticed that if you shim the UCA's too much you end up with a rather unusual steering "shift" when making sharp turns.

ive heard we can use 1st gen xterra frames as well...the only nice thing i see about doing that would be if you got the frame and axles so you have the wider wheel base. but personally, x3 to OldSlowReliable

Yes it has a huge difference, biggest point i can make on this is my maxima. my maxima on 5w-30 gets about 29.5 mpg, while on 0w-30 gets 33.5 mpg. I was advised by alot of people not to switch to 0w oil because it would leak everywhere. well i lucked out and it didnt, parcially due to the fact that it has been running on high mileage durabled oil for the last 100k miles. If you really want to switch to full syn oil i suggest you use high mileage durabled oils for a little while they contain addatives that will renew your seal to keep them from leaking when you start to use full syn. I ALSO HIGHLY RECOMMEND A ENGINE FLUSH IF YOUR STILL USING CONVENTIONAL OIL!!! i cant describe the number of times ive seen a guy switch from conventional to durablends or even syn, and all it ends up doing is dislodging a ton of sludge in the engine, then it really kills the engines power.

the SE pathy came stock with 31's ive been told if you go any bigger you need either a lift or fender trimming.

obd1 is a pain... turn the ignition on and turn the mode dial on the ecu all the way clock wise, then wait a a few seconds and turn it all the way counter-clock wise. you should then see a red light start to flash, count the number of flashes and those will represent the first code Digit, then a green light will flash , count it and that will represent the second code digit. put the two numbers together to get a code. CODE 55 means everything is clear. if you get anything else you have an issue. Personally OBD1 is such a pain that i would recommend pulling the positive battery term off to reset the ecu and see if the engine light comes back on before i check for codes. obd1 is a pain in the butt and i have to read my chiltons every time i mess with it, so if it doesnt work the first time see if there a light flashing when you turn it all the way clock wise, if so let it flash 3 times before turning all the way counter-clock wise...sometimes even chiltons doesnt help simplfy a car...

ha, okay, in the trunk of the pathy you'll need to lift the carpet completly off. you'll see a plate under the carpet held in by 3-4 bolts, remove those and walla the pathfinder fuel pump should be right there. Due note that to take the carpet off...you practically need to take apart most of the rear end interrior.

well, start with the most inexpensive fix. pull the fuel pump out when your low on gas and look around in there, use a flashlight if you have to. if your gutsy and have a small hand i guess you could allways feel around in there too if you dont see anything. After that i would just do a steering flush, honistly i would recommend this either way because steering fluid is almost never changed out of any vehicles.

I bought a tube bracket kit that i cant seem to find anymore, but its fairly easy to fab up. It consisted of 2 brackets w/bolt holes to tube weld, 2 brackets w/bolt holes, 2 bolts, and 2 of those hand tightening nuts. I welded the 2 brackets with curves in them directly to the frame, and welded the bolts to them. Had to drill a hole in one of the bolts for the lock. the other 2 brackets were used to sandwich the hi-lift between the brackets for a snug fit.

I didnt get the multi-carrier, only got the bumper with shackle mounts and reciever hitch with licence plate mount/light.

i believe all VG30 and VG33 tranny are interchangable with minimal mods. so it should bolt right on.

Ya, i have the rear bumper for my 95 Pathy and i love it, i even wish i had there front bumper over my overated ARB front bumper. Dont get me wrong, i like my ARB but its just not worth the price i payed.

i heard theres some kind of timing belt "guides" you need to replace/adjest with every timing belt adjestment with some vehicles. Pathys could be one of those vehicles.

check the center link, the center link will screw the aligment and alot of times the aligment shops will over look it. Just check if the pitman arm and idler are bent, if not they are ok and dont worry about them. Then check if any of the tie rods or adjestor sleves are bent, if not check if they have any play in them. If those are ok then you need to check your center link for play.

You know, after all the junk yards i have visted and all the forums i have read. i have never acually found anyone with heated seats in there Pathy.

<---Black Forest, i do most of my wheeling with the Ronin Wheelers but ill try to keep you guys in mind too.

Yeah, ive done exhaust and intake upgrades and it sounds nicer but no new power. I plan on adding cams and ECU when i rebuild the engine sense im 300 miles away from 200k :-)

apperantly some one on AC found a pretty good pathy in a washington junk yard. http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...;gonew=1#UNREAD thought it might be of intrest as it has a NPORA sticker on it.

check out KMA front bumpers: http://www.kenmtnac.com/WiNissan.html Rear Bumpers: http://www.kenmtnac.com/MCNissan.html

check this site out: http://web.archive.org/web/20070807081218/...t04/pathfinder/ they started out with a pretty basic intake, exhaust, and ECU and claim better gas milage and slightly better power. Then they tried the stuff on that page and ive heard of people doing those mods and getting a like V8 results.

so your talking about replacing that whole top part of the engine?