jbdevega

they can work but its not worth it, you basically need to change your cv from the 28 spline to the 27 spline and in order to do you need to change the axle shafts on the front diff. if you can get all the parts for less then 100 i'd say go for it but you almost never can. also v-6 hubs from 90-04 for pathfinders, Xterras, hardbodys, and Frontiers are all 28 spline and interchangeable. the golden hubs to find are the rare 90-97 hardbody 28 spline manual factory hubs, there rare but supposly the best hubs out there for our rigs. I looked for 3 years before i found mine.

yeah the belt also has a time, but thats mostly for the in-case its been sitting situation. even if the belt isnt use and isnt being worn down the rubber can still degrade over time. anyway some Nissan's will have the milage of when the belt was last changed either in the engine bay or in the drivers manual, just depends on the last mechanic that did it. If your unsure of when its done then i just say do full maintenance on it so you get everything done. i say full maintained because if your gona change the timing belt you might as well change all the other belts sense you be pulling them, and change the water pump sense it will be right there after you pull every thing off the front of the engine. I did all my belts and water pump my self for about $150, just buy a chilton or get a mechanic friend to help you.

uhh we have a belt, i have a 95 and just did my BELT last month, also it should be done every 105k

regear is actually pretty easy, first figure if you have 4.3 or 4.6 gears. it will say on the door jam. most manuals had 4.3 gears so regearing is as simple as finding a auto and swapping gears. that what i did and now im getting near stock mpg with 33's.

i would regear and change o2 sensor, another trick to see if the o2 senser is bad is to check the idle. if your truck has an erratic idle (idle speed goes up and down) then thats a sign of a bad o2 sensor that wont throw a code.

did you change the o2 senser? are you manual or auto? have you regeared? i noticed my manual drops 4-6 mpg when i went from 31s to 32's, had to regear to get it back.

they will fit fine, i only think you will need to crank the T-bars if they are sagging.

1. I have an ARB and i would not pay $900 shipped again for this pos. sorry, arb makes good stuff its just that this bumper is no were near worth $900. 2. I have a KMA rear and im alot more happy with it then my ARB, but i do agree that KMA does have a few issues as a company, such as it toke my bumper almost twice as long as what they told me it would take. 3. I would actually go this route of finding a local guy, this not only saves you shipping but you can brain storm with him in person on making your bumper truly your design. I actually plan on going this route when i replace my ARB, Ive only had it for about 2 years and its bent and warped under regular 4wheeling circumstances such as winching, D-ring pulling, and even a few rocks. Really pissed i payed $900 for it...

im surprised there no steering report on that page. Our stock center links are absolute crap, what was Nissan thinking by using ball joints to hold that thing together.

yeah i got ripped off by L&P, then went to grassroot4x4.com and got much better service.

depending on how it broke/how bad its broke it might be fixable with a trip to a local junk yard, but its a long shot.

helpful but not needed. i would say 3" or higher lift would need the drop bracket. Also make sure you pull the front ZJ coils from a V8, the I6 do nothing for lift.

L & P is dead grassroots4x4.com, toke up there desgin. They are trustworthy, i got my CL from them.

i heard somewhere that all pathfinder bodys have the threads to install the tire mounts, just that alot of them have the threads hidden behind sheet metal and getting to them without screwing them up is a bitch.

theres really an art to it toke me almost a year to get use to it, but i usually thread it on through the wheel well but tighten it down from the engine bay.

i use Lucas 75w90 because it has the lsd additive in it. i think the Lucas lsd additive is better then most of the other lsd additives out there.

just make sure you dont get water into the intake and your fine.

its either 4.67 or 4.63, but im pretty sure 4.63 is post 1997

dont rely on the gas light, in all the pathfinder ive ever crossed ive have yet to cross one with a working gas light

When you accelerate the weight is pushed to the back of the truck allowing the front suspension to rise a little. that little rise causes the pigeon toe, reason why is because the front alignment is bound by extreme angle due to the fact that the front drag link is essentially attached to the frame at two points. It drives me nuts because with a 3" sl this effect is magnified almost twice the effect.

this got ugly very quickly.... Well its possible to run 285's with just a 3"bl but fender trimming will be needed.

Yeah i noticed our tanks are only rated for about 18.5 gallons but a numbers of times i can almost get 21 gallons in it.

i have a 95 SE with 4.6 gears, 33's, and i get 13-17mpg. im pretty sure my engine needs a tune up. only time i got 10mpg was when i was running 33's with 4.3 gearing

I hear that too, heard nissan back in the day was known for releasing only a few hundred of a model car then going back and making more if they sell well.

sounds like you have an LSD but its fried.