The Wax and Detail thread

[Mr. Pickles]

I trail run my truck. I thrash it if I'm in the mood. I don't give a @!*% about mud nor dirt nor any other bull@!*% Mother Nature can throw. But on the down days, I do like it to shine...

 

First off, if you drink mud and @!*% rocks, and don't give a damn about shine and paint polish... well, why are you still reading? Move along there, lil' partner. For the rest of us that run what'cha brung, then realize you're stuck driving that scratched up mess for the weekdays, yet you don't know what to do about it, well here you go.

 

First thing's first: this will cost you a couple bucks, more or less depending on what you choose. The basic car wash soap in the local shop is probably $3, make it $4 for the Turtlewax wash/wax. Skip that as the better soaps are a just a few bucks more. Don't worry, a couple bucks extra and some elbow grease will make a ton of difference. There are tons of companies out there, and I couldn't list them all, but I can steer you clear of some. The general all-in-one, TurtleWax/Wash, one-stop-shop types of products are a waste of time, in my opinion. Same with the midnight infomercial miracle-wax where you can set your hood on fire, then buff it away. I'm a fan of Meguiars and Mothers brands in particular, but there are plenty others out there. The same basic principle applies to all: rub in with a clean applicator, rub off with a clean applicator. Its the details that matter

 

A good start is to (of course) thoroughly wash the rig. Depending on what terrain you run or live in, this could be as much as a simple spray and soap (city/Cali), to a full-on scrub, spray, get places the sun don't shine kind of thing. Regardless, I hope this is the kind of thing you're doing already, because it helps avoid lots of nasty issues like bad paint, rust and repair down the road.

 

Here's where the train usually runs off the tracks. A "wax" is just that, a coat of wax on top of a surface, whatever the surface is. If its a scratched up painted mess, and you wax it, you end up with a shiny surface on a scratched up mess. When that wax washes away, the mess is still there. That is where the traditional industry has you searching for the wrong stuff. Most of the people who read this have a rig that either: a) is old and has some abuse has been run on trails c) is a perfect show quality truck in a museum d) any of the above.

 

Regardless, wash it and then look for a good paint cleaner. *Note* not a wax, a cleaner. This will help remove scratches and impurities in the paint, and clean the paint's surface. This is where the most labor comes in, but also will equal the most reward. This is also time to for a basic method. Think of the Karate Kid movie. Wax on, wax off. Only more so, and harder with a cleaner. Get aggressive, but only until the "mission" is done. I really use a hard circular motion when trying to rub out a scratch or swirl, rubbing hard with the compound and across the grain of the scratch, and follow with a gentle circular buffing motion with a soft cotton cloth or towel.

Start scrubbing the paint with the cleaner per manufacturers instructions. If you really want detail, use a clay bar (web search). The cleaner (especially a liquid cleaner compound) is what you use to rub out scratches, hard-water marks, bird crap, all the stuff that makes your teeth grind every time you look. If there's a nasty scratch or something you think you can wet sand out (not on this thread, kids!), this would be the place to look into it. Other than that, just do it. Rub out the scratches, then repeat if needed. This *will not* cure a bad paint job, nor badly damaged paint from oxidation or other damage. It will clean up much oxidation, and other minor damage before it becomes permanant.

 

Next is polish, which buffs out and polishes the work from the last step. Again, get a decent product. You're essentially looking to polish the surface you worked in the last step. A polish is going to go over the edges you just smothed over with the cleaner, as well as the other rough paint edges, and make for a smoother surface for your WAX. Yes, all of this, and finally WAX!!!

 

People look to wax as a cure, a fix for a blemished item. Its actually more like a preservative if you think about it, a skin that covers paint and all the work that goes into it. Its the same principle but after all of the cleaning and polishing work that goes into it. It must be applied properly according to the instructions, and then buffed out by machine, or better by hand if you're patient enough. I'm not that patient, but nothing can beat a hand-polished rig. Daniel-san, wax on, wax off.

 

Edited June 21, 2008 by Mr. Pickles

[csutke]

Good info Pickles.

 

When doing the inside of your rig DO NOT use anti-static sprays as they WILL remove the dye from the upholstery over time.

[Mr. Pickles]

If we're going into interiors, get a product for interiors. There are products that will clean and moisturize your dash and trim vs. leather care vs. plastics or rubber. I'd recommend a separate interior product (mostly for dashes and plastic), and a separate leather conditioner and cleaner (if you have leather). Meguiars, Mothers, ArmorAll, and many others have different products for different needs. Some work on one surface or more, none really well on all. All should be applied independently with a separate cloth or aplicator, just in case.

 

In all honesty, if your windows are fairly clean, a wet (clean) towel works best. There's no residue left behind, nor lint.

 

In the long run, this kind of care won't find its way to many Pathy's. We'll see. But it carries over to all other cars too. If you're not used to this sort of car care and products, it can seem an expensive pain in the rear side. But really, you could buy one round of this stuff and have it last you the life of your vehicle, and you might end up ahead in the end vs. paying for detailing or reconditioning.

Edited June 21, 2008 by Mr. Pickles

[GrimGreg]

Wow, talk about over doing it, suprised you have any clear coat left working on it with a cleaner all the time.

[zonianbrat]

If you have tinted windows, never clean the insides of them with anything with amonia like windex or it will turn your tint purple. Nice writeup Pickles. Makes me wish I was at home so I could wash my ride and get a good coat of wax on it. Instead it is coated in a nice lite Tan caliche or calichi how ever you spell it.

[Mr. Pickles]

Wow, talk about over doing it, suprised you have any clear coat left working on it with a cleaner all the time.

 

I don't use a cleaner all the time, sorry about that, that was more of a "start here" suggestion. Once there's a good base to go off of, maintenance is polish and wax as needed, maybe once or twice (or more) a year. Agreed, the cleaner is a bit agressive. It takes out scratches by rounding off the edges of a scratch to blend it, and bringing down the clear coat to level things out. If you go over and over and over, or too many applications, you'll "sand" through your clear coat and be into a whole other pain in the rear. Good call.

[adamzan]

If you have tinted windows, never clean the insides of them with anything with amonia like windex or it will turn your tint purple. Nice writeup Pickles. Makes me wish I was at home so I could wash my ride and get a good coat of wax on it. Instead it is coated in a nice lite Tan caliche or calichi how ever you spell it.

I think the new tree hugger (read environmentally friendly) windex contains no ammonia. But it also sucks at cleaning glass now.

[Precise1]

What are you, some kind of pansy??

 

I'm considering giving the truck it's anual bath...

 

B

[RedPath88]

I drive by a car was twice a day... does that count?

[Mr. Pickles]

I think the new tree hugger (read environmentally friendly) windex contains no ammonia. But it also sucks at cleaning glass now.

 

I honestly find the best interior window cleaner is no cleaner at all. I usually use a damp towel or cloth, and just let the H2O do the work. Its fine for regular cleaning, and leaves no residue, just be sure to go back and wipe dry with a clean towel aftward to remove any streaks and such.

[GrimGreg]

I honestly find the best interior window cleaner is no cleaner at all. I usually use a damp towel or cloth, and just let the H2O do the work. Its fine for regular cleaning, and leaves no residue, just be sure to go back and wipe dry with a clean towel aftward to remove any streaks and such.

 

 

Depends how bad your water is....

[msavides]

Depends how bad your water is....

\

 

 

Just a FYI. 1990-95 Pathfinders. Vail white did not have factory Clear coat. So if you have a white Pathy (like mine) no need to worry about Stripping away your clear coat(however be carefull not to strip away all of your paint ), It did not have any. Not sure if any other colors came without clear coat

[GrimGreg]

\

Just a FYI. 1990-95 Pathfinders. Vail white did not have factory Clear coat. So if you have a white Pathy (like mine) no need to worry about Stripping away your clear coat(however be carefull not to strip away all of your paint ), It did not have any. Not sure if any other colors came without clear coat

 

Never checked the specific color name/code for my 88, but it was white with a clear coat. I know the Aztec Red (on my 93) has a clear coat.

[arcano]

Good info. I personally use SONAX and 3M stuff with excellent results. I start with SONAX concentrated car wash, then use SONAX tar remover for cleaning tar, stains, dead bugs, etc. from the paint. I follow that with medium and fine 3M rubbing compound for removing scratches and swirl marks. Then 3M glaze to fill deep scratches and even the surface out, followed by two coats of 3M liquid wax. I also use SONAX rubber restorer on all the exterior black rubber. For the interior I use 3M leather and vinyl restorer, which really works wonders, and SONAX heavy duty shampoo for the rugs.

 

I've done this to my '98 on average every 2-3 months since I bought it in 2000, and after 8 years the paint still looks great. In between I just let it get dirty, and when necessary I just use lots of water and a clean sponge. The smooth waxed surface just lets the dirt wash right off, and when it doesn't it means its time for another full polish and wax job.

Edited June 23, 2008 by arcano

[94extreme]

[FUELER]

I use NXT on the QXslow

 

 

and this is the civic with generic wax from the local auto detail supply

 

 

[Precise1]

and this is the civic with generic wax from the local auto detail supply

 

DUDE, CALL THE COPS!!! Someone stole some of your interior paneling!!

Oh, wait, they go faster that way... Or is it so you can wax the inside??

 

B

[PFCFNG]

I asked one of those tuner kids about that, he said to save weight. He got pissed when I said he could probably save the same amount by going on a diet.

Edited June 27, 2008 by PFCFNG

[Extreme90path]

haha I love my pathy to shine after wheeling. Even though it is black, and full of scraches, I do still take time a wash it. It's for the distance lookers. IF your about 20 ft away and look at it, it looks awesome! HAHA but yeah Wheel n' Wash is my motto xD

[BowTied]

I am a big fan of clay bar. Easy to use and does a great job of removing road tar, film, etc.

 

Anytime you clay bar or polish, I recommend 2 things: wash the truck with dish soap as this will remove the old wax. Otherwise never use dish soap to wash your vehcile. The other thing is to always wax the paint right away to get that protection back after clay bar or polish - the paint is somewhat exposed/vulernable otherwise. JMO

 

My results:

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18669

Edited June 28, 2008 by BowTied

[Precise1]

I asked one of those tuner kids about that, he said to save weight. He got pissed when I said he could probably save the same amount by going on a diet.

 

LMAO!!

 

B

[Mr. Pickles]

I am a big fan of clay bar. Easy to use and does a great job of removing road tar, film, etc.

 

Anytime you clay bar or polish, I recommend 2 things: wash the truck with dish soap as this will remove the old wax. Otherwise never use dish soap to wash your vehcile. The other thing is to always wax the paint right away to get that protection back after clay bar or polish - the paint is somewhat exposed/vulernable otherwise. JMO

 

My results:

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18669

 

More excellent points. Clay bar is awesome, you really see the nasty muck your're removing. As far as using dish soap (or other cleaners, Simple Green, etc.), yeah, *do not* use unless you intend to strip the wax and re-do.

 

On a side note, Simple Green and a brush can do wonders for white lettering and walls on tires, without the bleach. Its also not a bad idea to scrub your tire sidewalls every once in a while, especially if you use a shine product on them. Clean off any excess build up and dirt, then start with a clean base.