csutke

I will try and get pics tomorrow if nots not raining.

I don't know if I'd call it a bouncy feeling. It more feels like the suspension gets preloaded and then unloads.

Here's the deal I have had replaced or replaced the rear controls arms uppers and lowers I believe, the panhard, the shocks and now the coils. I just did the coils today and the rear end still feels like it's kicking out when I let off the throttle. I know it's not the control arms/ death wobble as I have had that before on my old pathy and I have had the arms replaced on this one right after I bought it about two yeas ago. I replaced the shocks about two years ago as well. One of the main reasons for putting on new coils was to try and get rid of the kicking out when letting off the throttle or going over whoops at highway speeds. Now with the new coils it doesn't seam to do it at speed but haven't had a chance to really test that out. I'm also going to be replacing the rear shocks again as soon as they get here as well as the front coils, struts, bearings etc... Is there anything else you guys can think of that would cause this. My wife said that she will not go on "long" trips in the pathy until this is fixed and right now it's our only vehicle capable of highway speeds. So to sum up my ramblings: New coils Two year old controls arms upper and lower I believe, panhard Two year old shocks Could the front suspension be causing this feeling?

Just saw these on rock autos website and have never seen them before. I'm needing to change out my suspension components and these would be a great time saver. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4256325&cc=1212051

I'm in the process of choosing how to go about replacing my suspension components. I was wondering if anybody on here has experience with "new" stock coils. Meaning that right now I have stockers but they are old and starting to sag. I know that the pathy is rated to tow 5000 lbs and I don't think I'll ever get close to that but I do tow with it. I have an aluminum 2 place atv trailer with one to two atvs on it, plus gear. I was wondering how new components handle this? My thoughts so far on replacement are: Front: Stock coils, KYB struts and some spacers OME or ironman coils, KYB struts and spacers Rear Stock coils, Bilsteins, spacers OME or ironman coils, and Biksteins no spacers (although may add some at some point after settling and what not) Or the complete AC kit My goal from all of this is to get a tighter ride, and I know that stockers with be softer than the other options but it's going to be better than it is now. Add a little lift, and hopefully get rid of some of the rake. I do like a little however.

I was looking at some of the ome coils and see that they have a weight rating, what does this mean? Also I'm guessing that with the ome kits that new shocks and struts are needed? What about with fleurys kits?

So its been a while since I was active on here. I currently have a 97 SE but I used to have a 98 XE with the 2" AC lift. That was back in 06-07, so its been a while since Ive looked at the lifts that are available for the R50. I have been looking around and see that there is a bunch of places to get spacers and the AC lift is still out there. I was wondering what is new in the R50 world. My current pathy has 161k miles on the stock suspension and is sagging. Im looking to replace the suspension and hopefully convince the wife that a lift is the way to go. I dont really want to go over 2" and i do tow an ATV trailer a few times a year so towing is also something to keep in mind. Also when looking at the AC lift it says that new wheels with different backspacing is required, whys this? I have the six spoke stock wheels now and dont want to have to buy new wheels as well as the lift. TIA

We'll I'm an electrician apprentice, so almost there. My dad is an ASE master certified mech ( before you ask why I don't have him do it, he lives on the other side of the state I think, and even though he's my dad he's a bit flakey.) so I'm in your position I need a plumber buddy as we'll

Well I've got a copy of the fsm although I don't feel like this is my league. I know my limitations and this is well past them. So to the shop it goes if and when it needs done.

Oh it's a 97 SE btw.

So I think that my clutch is taking a crap. It was replaced around 80k miles by the pervious owner I think. It now has 161k on it. So if it was done at 80 it's due again. I took it into a shop, he said that he would like to do a full diag on it, which I'm prob gonna do but he said that the clutch is prob gonna run around $1000. Does this sound reasonable?

I have a 97 se with the bose 6 disc in dash changer and have been having some problems with it recently. For starters there's times when I go to turn the volume down with the knob and the voline will actually increase, sometimes to the point to where I have to turn the radio off as to not blow my speakers. There's also been a few other times when the opposite happens. There's no rhyme or reason to this and its very annoying. Also my tape deck downtime like to work about half the time. I use it for a cassette adapter for my ipod and phone. And most recently the cd player won't read any discs. I know the most obvious solution is to replace the radio with an aftermarket deck and call it good but that's not in the budget right now. So has anyone else had these problems and if so what did you do to fix them. If not any ideas? Also when the tome comes to get a new deck I remember reading about problems with the stock bose system and new decks not working. Am I remembering this correctly? If so what are the problems and how do i either fix them or get around them?

Where did it plug into?

I'm looking to wire my pathy for a trailer. I found this connector under the rear and was hoping it was a trailer hook up or at least some leads. I'm really hoping that this is indeed a trailer connector. If its. It what the hell is it for? And is there a wiring kit for these or do I have to tap into the tail lights?

No that I noticed. It was because the windshield is glued in to place so the kept any water from getting in.

Oh and from the roof to the engine bay I ran them beside the windshield under the weather stripping. And then between the fender. If that makes sense.

I know that on my 98 there was a hole in the firewall where the clutch master would go. I had an automatic so this hole wasn't used. That's where I ran most of my cables and wires. I'm not sure if that hole is there on yours or not but it certainly worth a look. But be warned the hole isn't very big and you can only fit so much through it. An other option is to hide the wires in the fender between the inner and outer fender and then run them into the cab about half way up the door jam. Doing it this way wi have minimal wire showing and doesn't require drilling holes in the fire wall.

Well near is the key word there. It will prob be in the next year, hopefully, and the shocks that are on there are pretty much fried. So that's I was kinda leaning toward the cheapest stockers and then get the whole kit. But I wanted to double check and see if i could get away with the shock for a lifted pathy when it didn't have a lift. And I was planning on the kyb/bilstein package this time around. Thanks for the reply xlpor

That's what I figured happened. Someone bought it and then returned it minus the two correct wires. Kinda weird as how it was all "there" just different brands. And then to top it off when I went to exchange them today, they didn't have any on the shelf. So I had them special order another set. Be here tomorrow morning. So my pathy that I've waited almost two weeks for is sitting in my driveway. I know I could have reused the old wires for a day but as you all know #6 is a PITA to get to. I'll wait another day so I don't have to mess with it more than I have to. And I paid for NGK wires I want NGK wires not some brand that I have never heard of even though they were supposed to he the top of the line normally.

So I finally got my new to me se home yesterday. Proceed to change the plugs, cap, rotor, but when it came to change the wires the box I received had two different brands, and didn't have the number 1 or 6 plug in the box. But there was two 2s and two 4s. Great. No I have to go back napa exchange them, and hope they have another set in stock. So even though I opened the box before I left I didn't make.sure that they were all the dame brand. I counted six wires and thought I was good. So for those out there check everything in the box and make sure its all correct.

Here's how I did mine I got a flat piece of 3/8 steel the length on the crossbars. Then drilled holes in the ends so.the could be.mounted to.the hardware that's already in the tracks. Then took the mounts for.the.lights and had a friend tack them in plqce where I wanted then. And then ran the relays under the hood and the leads from them to a switch in side the cab. Here's the light bar its self. Very strudy, lights.didn't bounce at all. And was easy enough to remove them if needed. As you can see the bar is still up there. It held up great under the worse conditions.

So my 97 is going to need shocks, SOON. At some point I'm wanting to get the 2" AC lift but can't afford it at the moment. And after looking at AC's site they state there is a difference between the two; with and with out lift. Is this difference in valving or is it actually piston travel and compression? What I'm was planning on doing was just purchasing the shocks separately and then buying the coils and struts. If I were to buy the rear shocks will they fit or is the length of them for a lifted/non lifted specific suspension? Also I was looking at the Bilsteins. Which is better the 4600 or the 5100? Does anybody have the part number for these? Or would I be better off buying a cheap set of rear shocks, and then upgrading the whole system when I have the money? If I do this any suggestions on which to use? Thanks.

These are the main reasons I bought this one. Live that it has the brush guard, swing out tire carrier, 5 speed, and then all the niceties inside. Plus it like very clean. One previous owner who took great care of it. Yeah I plan on doing most of this my self. I had the mechanic do the control arms, steering rack mounts, oil pressure switch, and the cv joints. The right boot was torn and throwing grease everywhere so I had them replace the whole thing. And I know all about the #6 plug and It's wonderful location. Luckily it still has the tool kit under the seat with the plug wrench. Wish I had actually used it when I did the plugs on my old 98. Would have made things a ton easier. And while I wouldn't call the belts easy per se they are doable without having to have the mechanic do them.

Im gonna say he's a MMA fighter wanna be. Skin tight tapout shirts with muscles that you know are from roids, constantly rocks oakleys that are huge and way too big for his head, possibly full arm sleave tattoos, shaved head with a goatee. And his girl friend is a bleach blonde bimbo who like being treated like crap, but is decent arm candy.

Oh I know that i can do most of the things that are on the list but my parents said they would spring for some of the repairs, so im gonna have the mechanic do the control arms, oil pressure switch, cv boots, and steering rack mounts. Every thing else im gonna do as needed. The belts are in ok shape, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor will prob be the next thing to be done.