arcano

I also doubt it's a head gasket problem. I have another theory: When I had a '98 with the VG33 engine, I had a mysterious coolant leak which took months to diagnose. The problem turned out to be the heater hoses that come out of the back of the engine and go through the firewall to heat the cabin. Somehow one of the short hoses developed a pinhole leak, and would spray a fine mist of coolant towards the engine/transmission. When hot, the coolant would leak as a gas or evaporate on contact with the hot engine, transmission or muffler, leaving absolutely no trace, but right after turning the engine off some small amount of coolant would continue leaking while the system cooled down, and sometimes enough fluid would leak and remain in liquid state to drip down the engine, transmission and exhaust muffler to make it to the ground, where I would occasionaly find a few drops of coolant after letting the car sit for long enough. At first I could not even notice a significant reduction in the coolant level, and it wasn't until the leak got big enough that I began smelling coolant and finally could follow the coolant trail to the leak. Since I live in Panama, where the cabin heater is completely useless, just got a U-shaped hose and bypassed the hole cabin heater system. Problem solved for less than 5 bucks and 10 minutes of work!!!

I had PIAA extreme whites on my '98 and they were excelent. Really bright and almost completly white, with just the slightest hint on blue. The bulbs lasted well over two years (until the truck got wrecked...) So, a few weeks ago I replaced the stock bulbs with PIAAs on my new (to me) '03, and my wife was so impressed with the difference she demanded I put them on her '05 Honda Pilot also. Turns out both the Pathy and the Pilot use the same type bulb...

I used to have a 1998, which was wrecked a few months ago. I bought a 2003, and swapped many components over to the new(er) truck. I was also under the impression the brakes on the newer R50s were different, specially considering that the '98 did not have ABS brakes, and the '03 does, but with the trucks sitting side by side it sure looked like the rotors and calipers were the exact same size. I did not checked specific part numbers and such, but I was able to install my 15" steelies (U.S. Wheels) on the '03 without any rubbing, replacing the stock 16" alloy wheels. I also swaped the braided stainless steel brake lines and warn manual hubs. It also looks like I should be able to swap the stillen drilled rotors I had on the '98, I just haven't gotten around to it. Hope this helps...

I am sorry to report that my '98 Pathfinder SE, which had been a great ride for the 11+ years I owned it, has died. Here is a recent picture, lookig sharp right after washing and waxing: An older man ran a stop sign and pulled right in front of me in a Suzuki Grand Vitara, with both of us doing about 50 mph. No time to even hit the brakes. I hit him square on the front passenger door. Luckily there was nobody in the passenger seat of the Suzuki, or I would have surely killed that person. I was spun 180 degrees, and the Suzuki flew about 5 meters, and landed on the side of the road. I was wearing my seatbelt, but my truck has (or had) no airbags, so I was lucky to come out with only a bump on the side of the head and a sprained shoulder. The driver of the Suzuki was not injured, thanks in part to the multiple airbags in that car. Here is what mu Pathy looks like now: I am still waiting for a final word from the insurance company, but I am sure the truck is totaled. After looking at all my options, I decided that another R50 was the way to go, so I could take advantage of all the mods and add-ons on the '98. The logical choice was a late R50, with the VQ35 engine, ABS brakes and airbags (which my '98 did not have)... So, here is what I bought last night: What do you think???? It is a 2003 Pathfinder SE, 4WD, automatic transmission (the '98 was a 5-speed), and 'only' 83K kilometers (about 50K miles). I purchased the truck directly from its original owner, and has had its maintenance done at the dealer every 5K kilometers since it was purchased. No accidents or major breakdowns, and the previous owner just did the whole front suspension bushings and strut mounts, so the ride feels real tight (but nowere near as nice as my lifted '98 with the OME/KYB/Rancho setup) Here is a preliminary list of the upgrades/mod that survived the crash and I plan to move to the '03: US Wheels 15" steel wheels with the right backspacing for 31" tires (I need to check that the wheels clear the brake calipers and have no other clearance issues, since the '03 has 16" wheels) BF Goodrich AT 31"x10.5" tires for 15" wheels (must be able to fit the 15" wheels) Custom rear bumper with tire carrier 4Crawler Rock Sliderz custom nerf bars with air storage option Black Panther Armor 3-piece custom skid plates (front, middle and rear) Complete front and rear differentials with 4.6 gears and ARB rear air locker ('03 has open rear differential and 4.3 gears) ARB compressor ARB switches and wiring harness for locker and compressor Stillen crossed-drilled rotors and metal matrix pads (if not excesively worn out) Goodridge front and rear stainless steel brake lines Front and rear OME 1" lift coils Rear Rancho adjustable shocks (not sure if these will fit the '03) Front KYB struts (if not damaged) Custom 1" front strut spacers Warn manual hubs Yakima bike rack, basket and tire carriers KC 6" halogen lights (if not damaged) KC 4" halogen lights (rack) KC light switches, relays and wiring harness Radio Shack CB Radio Radio Shack CB antena and antena mount Kenwood Exelon head unit with bluetooth and iPod support Kenwood powered subwoofer Alpine 4Flex amplifier Kenwood Excelon door speakers Front and rear leather seats (the '03 has cloth seats) I am also considering additional mods for the new Pathfinder: Krypton Fabrications 4" SFD lift (since I am switching out the front differential, seems like the right time to also install the SFD. Plus, I will have spare steering components to modify) ARB (if I could find one) or custom front winch bumper (in order to be able to install the winch, since the Warn bull bar I had was destroyed) Please chime in with comments or suggestions!!!

Seriously interested...PM Sent.

I went full synthetic on my '98 SE a while ago and don't regret it at all... Manual Transmision and Transfer Case: Red Line MT-90 Synthetic Gear Oil (GL-4, DO NOT use GL-5 stuff in your transmission) Front and Read Diffs: Red Line 70-W90 NS Synthetic Gear Oil (GL-5) - just make sure you add friction modifiers or get the non-NS stuff if you have an LSD. Engine: Mobil 1 10-W30 Synthetic Engine Oil She runs great...and with no significant leaks so far. I could not justify the really expensive stuff in the engine (red line, amsoil, royal purple), so I used Mobile 1, but for components with longer maintenance intervals, like transmission and differentials, I think it is well worth the money to get the best stuff if you plan on keeping your truck for a while. Good luck!

Sound like they are trying to get you. ¿Are you loosing lots of coolant or steering fluid? ¿Is your steering hard, or does it make noises when you turn? ¿Is the AC blowing cold air? My '98 has been making a strange, clicking sound whenever the AC is on for over two years now. When it first started, two different shops told me the compressor was shot, and that I should replace it right away. I told them I would replace it when it stopped working. It’s still going strong two years latter, and all I have done is change the gas and add oil to the system twice a year to make sure it's pressurized and lubricated properly, for about $25 a pop. The truck was also leaking steering fluid, and the first shop I took it to told me that the whole R&P had to be replaced. I took it to the dealer, and they confirmed some of the R&P seals were leaking a bit, but the main leak was at the high pressure line, which they replaced for around $100. I am still loosing some fluid, but very slowly, and as long as I check it once a month and top it off it has not been a problem. Just in case, a few months ago I got a R&P rebuild kit for about $70, which includes all the parts needed to completely rebuild the R&P, but I understand it's a pretty complicated job, so I am waiting for the leak to get worst before I have it taken apart. Regarding the radiator, mine also starting leaking from the top about a year ago, and it did have to be replaced. I got one for about $139 if I remember correctly (made in china) and put it in myself. If I were you I would take it one issue at a time. I would focus on the radiator first, since that can damage your engine if you don't watch it, and if it's really leaking it will probably get worst fast. The AC and R&P can be monitored closely, and you don't risk so much by putting it off. Good luck!

I got the US Wheels from Summit Racing about 2 years ago...I think I paid about $50 each. Daytona is the model, I believe, and I think I got the one with 3.75" BS. Good looking, tuff and affordable...and you can get a nice and shinny center cap for about $5 more.

I just did a search and found my original post from August 2007... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...hl=strut++mount There's some good info there on this subject...hope it helps.

I measured the spring extension before the lift, and adjusted after the lift (and a couple weeks of settling) to about the same lenght. I remember it making a noticeable difference. Unfortunately I can't remember the exact lenght, but someone with an unlifted R50 could chime in. By the way, my '98 has no ABS and it has the LSV, so its definetly not ABS specific.

OK, here's my $0.02...and sorry for the long post. First of all, I have an OME lift with HD springs up front. I also have full black panther skids, and a Warn bull bar with a winch and lights, wich add significant weight to the front. It added up to a bit over 1" lift up front before any spacers. The rear settled to about 1" higher. So, a while ago I got 3/4" strut spacers, and had the same dilema about the installation. I could install the spacer "on top" of the whole strut assembly, which would increase my suspension's maximum extension by 3/4" and put extra stress on the CV joints; or I could install the spacer "sandwiched" between the strut mount and the strut plate (the part that has the pressed-on bolts) to presserve the maximum extension and help the CV joints. Obvoiusly the second alternative semed better, so I installed the spacers between the strut mount and the strut plate. It worked fine...for a while. Turns out the strut mount is made of two halfs, held together by hard rubber. I found out the hard way that the strut plate needs to be installed right bellow the mount, in order to support the center section, where the strut bolts to. By placing the spacer between the strut mount and the strut plate, the center part of the mount is "pulled" down through the spacer when the suspension tops out. After a few weeks the suspension started making strange noises, and in a couple of months the strut mounts were completly destroyed. When I took the front suspension appart one of the mounts actually came out in two halfs! So, I got new mounts and reinstalled the spacers "on top". No problems ever since...although I have manual hubs, and I take it slow when in 4WD, so the suspension does not top-out under full torque and blows a CV. I hope this helps anyone...

I installed the Stillen Brake-Pro drilled rotors a couple of years ago in my '98, together with Stillen metal matrix front pads and Goodridge stainless steel brake lines all around. At the same time I also installed new OEM pads for the rear drums, adjusted the proportioning valve (as described in the service manual) and did a good flush of the system with new brake fluid. It made a huge difference in braking. Absolutely no fading, and has been holding up really good. I would highly recommend to anyone wanting to improve their brakes.

I can confirm that the transfer case can use gear oil, but be aware that you cannot use the same oil you would use on the differentials. Although they may be similar weight, they are different types of oil. According to my FSM the manual transmission needs API GL-4 gear oil, the transfer case can use either API GL-4 gear oil or Dexron III or equivalent A/T fluid, while the differentials require API GL-5 gear oil. I prefer to use gear oil in both the transmission and transfer (one less type of fluid to worry about). I have been using Redline MT-90 (75W90 API GL-4) in the transmission and transfer case for almost two years with no problems. I also run Redline 75W90NS gear oil in the front and rear differentials (API GL-5 without friction modifiers, since I replaced my LSD with an air locker). As you can see both gear oils are of the same weight (75W90) but for different applications.

I did a lot of research on the topic of fuel octane a long time ago. My understanding from multiple sources is that the difference between low and high octane fuel is ONLY that the higher octane fuel has a higher resistance to spontanous ignition, which is good on engines with higher compresion to prevent knocking. In other words, higher octane fuel packs the same puch (energy per gallon) but requires more heat/pressure/spark to burn completly. In a high-compression engine, the high octane fuel will burn completly due to the additional pressure and temperature in the combustion chamber. BUT, in a lower compression engine that is not designed for it, the high octane fuel will not always burn completly, so you will get less energy out of each gallon of fuel, and thus lower mileage. So: Engine with high compression + higher octane fuel = higher mileage and no knocking Engine with high compression + lower octane fuel = lower mileage due to knocking Engine with lower compression + lower octane fuel = higher mileage due to more efficient burning (as long as some other problem is not causing knocking) Engine with lower compression + higher octane fuel = lower mileage due to incomplete burning (but may fix knocking problems) I hope it makes sense...

I did the same research for a front bumper still in the works. After looking at the 3 options (ARB, TJM and KMA ) I chose to use something similar to the TJM mounting approach, since it seems the simplest and cleanest. Here is a view of the bumper. The measurements are only aproximate, taken as well as I could without actually removing the front bumper: Here is a closeup of the mounts:

I recently replaced the clutch on my '98, with "only" 175,000 miles. The only reason I replaced it was because the throwout bearing went bad (it howled like a dying animal), and I decided to just replace everything while I had the transmission down. The friction and pressure plates were still in very good condition, and could probably have lasted another 50,000 miles at least. I did some research regarding aftermarket clutches, and in the end decided to go with all OEM original components. I am very happy with the decision, and some 20,000 miles latter the clutch still feels better than new. I think all the parts from the dealer were just under $300, so its not much more than some of the aftermarked clutches (and actually less than some). I figure if it lasts as long as the first one...

I got Husky floor and cargo mats from a local retailer. I also looked at their "liners", but I did not like the way they fit. I got a full set, which includes both front mats, a 3-piece rear set, and one large mat for the cargo area. They all fit fairly well, but be aware that is not a 100% custom fit, specially the driver's side. The whole set was about $200 including shipping to Panama if I remember correctly (ouch!). I know they also sell them separately. The mats are made of really thick, good quality rubber. The cargo mat has a 1" edge all around that does a really good job at keeping any dirt or liquid from spilling onto the carpet underneat. The front and rear mats also have groves and raised edges about 1/4" tall that can also hold quite an amount or dirt, mud and other liquids. I've had them for well over 3 years and still look like new after a good wash. They should hold up for many more years... Below is generic picture pf the rear cargo mat so you can get an idea of what they look like.:

I have a '98 with OME lift, adjustable rancho shocks in the back, and wheels with less backspace, so they stick out a bit further. I have experimented with removing both the rear and front sway bars, with mixed results. Disconnecting the rear sway bar provides more flex and a better ride when going over bumps, and does not seem to allow too much additional body roll. The front sway bar, on the other hand, seems to have a much more significant effect on body roll if disconnected, and I would not like to perform an emergency swerving maneuver without it going at any rate of speed. After much testing I have completely removed the rear bar, but the front I like to keep on for daily driving. I experimented with SKC removable front links for a while, but after a while they starting clunking so I switched back to the original links.

Check these out.... Rear Bumper: Front Bumper: I did these in Google Sketchup. The dimensions are not 100% accurate, but should be close. The rear bumper was built by a local fabricator based on these drawings, although I did have to leave my car for a few days for the initial measurements and mock up, and then I had to drop it off a couple of more times for final fitting and installation. The end result: I will probably be building the front in the next couple of months...PM me and I will mail you the drawing file.

Very interested. Any pricing yet?

I have a VG '98 SE without ABS. My sister has a VQ 2001 SE with ABS. Her's is 100% stock, while mine has the OME lift, 31" tires and upgraded brake components, including Stillen drilled rotors, metal matrix pads and stainless steel brake lines. I have driven my sister's R50 many times, and I really don't like the feeling of the ABS. The ABS kicks in too easily, and most of the time I feel that its actually hurting breaking performance. I haven't really done a side-by-side comparison, and the trucks are not exactly the same, but I am alsmost sure I can stop my truck from the same speed in a shorter distance. With a properly maintained braking system, under 99% of circumstances I would rather not have the ABS. I know ABS can really help in some situations, but in the R50s it seems to be too sensitive.

I also installed KYB strut mounts and bearings a couple of years ago, when the original ones died after enduring almost 8 years of abuse, including a couple of years of offroading with a mild lift and bigger tires. The original mounts would have lasted even longer, but I installed strut spacers the wrong way and killed them prematurely (a whole other story...) The only reason I went with KYB was that the dealer was out of stock, and it would take too long to get the OEM parts. Once I disasembled the strut and removed the old mounts I could tell there was a huge difference in quality. The KYB mounts simply looked flimsy in comparison. I installed them anyways since I had no alternative, and I made sure the spacers were installed correctly this time. The first couple of months they worked OK, but shortly after they started clunking, and after six months the passenger side was completely destroyed. When removed the mount came out in two halfs, and the bearing could barely be turned by hand. The driver side was not as bad but I could tell it would not last much longer. Replaced both sides with OEM mounts and bearings (and the spacers) and haven't had any problems since. KYB struts and shocks, on the other side, are excellent. The GR-2 gas struts are probably the best struts for the R50. I currently have Rancho struts, but will probably switch back to KYB when the time comes.

I run redline MT90 in both my transmission and transfer case. I had the dealer put it in when I was replacing the clutch about a year ago. I agree...the stuff is super smooth. I run 100% synthetic oils in my truck now (redline in the drivetrain and castrol in the engine).

My '98 developed a leak from the hoses under the plenum which looked exactly like what you are describing. I was so positive it was an engine gasket I took the truck straight to the dealer, expecting major repairs. It turned out to be two separate - and relatively small leaks from two separate small hoses feeding the intake. I went ahead and told the delaer to replace them all while he was in there. The bill was still around $400 due to the number of small hoses to replace and the amount of work involved to get there. Still, I thought it was very reasonable for a dealer. By the way, this repair also fixed a misterious coolant loss that had been bothering me for months, and now the truck looses absolutely no coolant. Good luck!

Last year I installed Stillen Brake Pro drilled rotos and metal matrix brake pads, as well as Goodridge stainless steel brake hoses on my '98 SE, which has no ABS, a mild lift (OME lift + front strut spacers) and 31" BFGs on black steel wheels. The result was a significant imporvement in braking performance. Before the upgrade, the brakes felt very "mushy" and I could hardly control or modulate the brakes. It was very difficult to lock up the tires even under very hard braking, but when they did lock up they did so unexpectedly and suddenly...definetly not very safe. After the upgrade I feel like I have a lot more control over braking. Braking power increases gradually and smoothly as I apply more pressure to the brake pedal. I can definetly lock up the tires now, but only if I want to. Under hard braking I can stop the truck much quicker without locking the tires up. Overall, I think the upgrade is very much worth it.