Precise1

Let me add that I would NOT try re-torquing the stock studs unless you are prepared to deal with some breaking. You say that the leak lessens when it warms up but does not go away. Thats my rule of thumb, if it does not go away, you need to address it. Mine taps sometimes for the first 2-3 minutes but nothing when it warms up so I'm ignoring it in hopes of putting on headers next year. Otherwise, I agree with everything said above... LMAO !! That just gives me a GREAT mental image !!! I think bail varies depending on where you are, how many times you have been arrested and just how heinous the crime... I'd say $200 was a good price. B

There is only one tranny mount on the rear cross member that also holds the T-bar adjusters. You won't have to do anything to that. I don't know if you have to move the tranny, but it sounds like it... I'd just try moving it back rather than removing it. That means just removing the tranny mount, some wires and the rear driveline at the diff and maybe the shifters. Really not that bad. Make sure to put clock marks on the diff and driveline... Yes, as long as the heads bolt up the same... JK, I believe its the same... B

It never hurts to run the ECU diagnostics, but it sounds more like the timing belt. A few people have had that happen recently, and if thats the original belt that is meant to be changed every 60k miles, its a definite candidate ! Do a search and you will find plenty of info, theres even a write up somewhere. Let me know if you cant find them. Cant hurt to pull the starter to look at it. You don't have to drag it all the way out, just enough to see. B

Never having owned a diesel, much less a pathy leaves me with no advice to give... Try emailing some of the members that own one. That should turn up pretty easy in a search. B

Sorry to hear that Bud. Hopefully your insurance deals with it without issues and that something nasty happens to that POS that hit and ran. Whats with people not owning up to their mistakes ? I hate cowards. End of the day though you and the other driver are ok. You can always buy another car... B

Thats about as good as it gets, eh ? Congrats on winning, and Gomer getting a nice public spanking... You should be on the road in time for the foul weather ! B

Glad you, your pathy and anyone else weren't hurt !! I've heard some nasty things about run away tires... "So what do you want me to do about it?" he says Thats just too classic... I'd be sorely tempted to thump his melon to see of it is rotten... I always tell tire places to just snug the lug nuts and park it, I'll tighten them. Its wierd the arguements I've gotten that I cant do that !! I've seen stripped/broken studs and barely tight wheels. I once had to change a flat and the lug nuts were so tight, I snapped my tire star, so there I sat, stuck until I flagged someone down with the right size lug wrench. Never again, I'll do it correctly myself ! Sorry your trip went awry, but glad the event was pretty mild. Good luck with the repairs... B

Sheit Bud, sorry that happened ! Thats what keeps me slow out there, I dont want to hit anyone but sometimes things happen. As for the damage, that really doesn't look that bad and can be fixed fairly easily. I've spent well over $1500 just for frame work and parts on my front end and neither Q-panel nor hood was touched and it is still not good. What really matters is that everyone is OK. Metal can be replaced... Sorry about the inconvenience, but try get the garage to work the insurance o a bit, bring beer, it helps. I'm sure it'll come back as good as new. I wish someone did that to me... Then I'd get $ for a new truck ! B

Sorry, thats the second time I have said ignition parts when you had already said they were new... My bad ! Still, check all the vacuum lines you can, pulling a plug to look at it cant hurt and consider cleaning the MAF. Here is a link to the simple process... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5194 B

:cool2: She can get by with the stock shocks unless they are shot... B

Try looking for cracked or loose vacuum lines. Then inspect the dist cap, rotor, wires and a plug or two. If everything seems in order, try changing the fuel filter. B

Dude, I'm a good machinist, a fair mechanic and a moderate shade tree engineer. I don't know welding and have never SAS'd a vehicle and don't know anyone who has, much less anyone near by. My attitude is to check out the kit when it comes out (what it is/costs/entails) then get feed back. Then depending, I may go for it with the view point 1/2 'training wheels', 1/2 'gotta start somewhere'. Regardless, my truck has some drame framage and it would cost me at least 1/2 the $ of just SASing to fix it. Hell, I have to borrow a garage to work in ! Jury is out for now, but for me it may be a viable plan... So how soon are you going to post your SAS design ?? B

Good idea about the template, but it seems that all you would have to do is line up a few holes and start trimming... I know I need to do mine soon, probably in spring. Look here for the plastic expanding rivet thingies. It starts on the bottom and goes for a page or two... http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAG...05&PMT4TP=*LTIP B

Try a quick check to see if the wheel bearings are tight (4x4s set to 0 play), tie rod ends, centerlink, and the arms. If that checks out ok, it may be bushings on the sway bar or in the CA's ? Just poke, pry and twist for a bit... Then get under and look... Have you tried slaughtering a chicken yet ? I find a granite 'altar' works well, followed by dancing around a bonfire naked wearing a goats head while chanting... These demons are far too ancient to respect any 'new' gods ! :o B

Well, with my tweaked front frame horns, I'd wind up spending at least $1000 to get them straight again and still have a shot stock front end... I'll take the leaf spring SAS for $1800 Bob !!! I'm sure I'll be happy with it and it would probably increase the resale of the vehicle as much as it costs. Not to mention the front end wouldn't be fighting its self around every corner... B

If $ was no issue, of course, the ceramic... Otherwise I'd just get the plated ones. The way I look at it is that $120 can be well spent elsewhere... It's not like this is a race car so the results should be the same. B

As far as I know, a 90's VG30E will bolt up fine to the tranny. My manual shows bolt patterns the same for the V6's intake and exhaust, but without dimensions it's hard to tell. Not to mention my manual only covers 89-95. I'd try to find a motor from the same year personally... Someone with a 2 door and 4 door chime in ? B

Well V6, if I can't elaborate or I have no idea , I generally don't post. Seeing as you had already covered the "I don't know" side of things, I figured I'd leave it to the people who did. Seems to me the answer is "No, probably not easily. Better just buy the right year" from the replies... B

Well, just as good and maybe better. Either way, you have plenty of acreage to mount things off of, but mounting a winch off of the steel would be easier. I think the key would be using a plate to bolt to the frame, not just 2 arms would be the best. I'm just going off of my first hand knowledge of WD21 front end crash results. I can't see $750 for a nice bumper for a truck worth less than $5k. I think at this point, its function over form for me... B

$750 for the ARB... I think I'd rather just mount a railroad tie and call it good... B

I second that... No, it should make no difference what so ever to the front end stability, or lack of. Maybe things have settled now that you are driving it (sometimes) or it's just the drugs making you less observant... B

Good article FL, thanks for the link. B

Ok, let me try again, just for your benefit... " I wouldn't spend $190 on it unless I knew it had a proven, beneficial track record." There, did that help ?? B

It doesn't seem is if they ever considered that the starter would ever have to be removed, does it ? Still with patience, it gets done... GL and mind the sharp edges ! B

Well, I'd try one if someone else did for a while, had no problems, and reported appreciable gain in either power or milage... B