Precise1

YOW !!! Sorry, I thought they were a bit cheaper than that... B

I haven't the slightest idea, but I remember some members here mentioning them... Here we go... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...38&hl=ham+radio Why you looking to dump that X and get a wheeler ?? B

DOH !! You drove it like that !?! Well, I'm glad you made it alright. Didn't you make pads or spacers for the springs also ? The bottom seat for the springs is formed to hold the end of the coil in specific orientation. If you have thick pads there and cant see the clocking and one spring is seated correctly, the other not, that could make up a lot of the .75". Can you back out the adjusters at all ? It would just take a little to drop the nose 1". I cant remember if that Solid Model I posted was to scale... I'll check tonight. I could draw up a 3 piece weld together version that would be cheap and easy to make. The only machining would be sizing the material, drilling some holes and cutting a slot. I may have to take a few measurements but no big deal. Let me know if you are interested. How much drop do you want ? 3" ? B

Ok, much thanks Bob, Pezzy set them up... I just wanted a newbie's perspective, guess I should have just tried it but I didn't know if already having an account would change things... I'm tired... B

Ok, thanks... Did you have to pay using paypal ?? B

Mr Jim (the founder) is basically absent these days... It will happen, but when he has the time or whatever. Just be patient, no one has been denied that I know of... And no, I don't believe you get an email. Someone told me they are having trouble creating an account. Could you please outline the process you just went through for me so I can try to figure this out ? Thanks Bob !! B

If your friend is running the stock tranny cooler (part of the radiator), that is probably the culprit. They are notorious for clogging and starving the tranny and/or allowing it to overheat. Most people bypass it and run aftermarket coolers. Sorry, but it's fairly expensive to fix the automagics... B

There should be no major movement in the motor/tranny position. Maybe it was close before, and thats all it took... Glad it was an easy fix ! B

So you are assuming he has the SE package ?? B

Check the motor/tranny mounts for excessive play or tears. Things could be moving on you and 1st gear is always the worst. Is it a manual transmission ? Does the rear differential have play in it ? You would probably feel that in most gears though... Also check the bushings in the rear end, especially the control arms. People have had the bushings disintegrate leaving metal on metal. That also may clunk when torque is applied to the rear axle. Unfortunately, you pretty much have to remove them to check. How many miles on your rig ? B

I agree, you may have fried your selenoid... Trace the wires all the way from the battery. Check to see if the fusable link is ok... Check your fuses just for kicks, but I doubt they are the culprit; I just like to do a good free inspection before I buy parts... If everything checks out, then try this... B

There was another cb/pa thread within the last month... More info there. B

Well, I'd guess that its an electrical connector... What to, I have no idea ! So you are another unemployed scoundrel, eh ? B

No, I think he just wants to confirm his theory. Sorry, I don't know the R50's. The cover doesn't have a fuse map on it ? B

Hey Bob. I have Pro Comp ES3000 shocks. They are a little stiffer than stock. It feels perfect in front but a little stiff in the rear when unladen/no passengers. I believe the 'stock' replacements are the ES1000. I got a package deal (4 shocks and a steering stabilizer) for $120 shipped with all possible mounting hardware except for the SS from 4wheelparts. If the rear is not sagging, then the rear springs aren't that bad. Put in shocks (might as well do all 4) and see how it feels. Why thank you, glad we can help !! B

Yep, its the body lift + the JGC springs that is causing this. 88 had to weld/fab an extension on the mount that extends from the body because I haven't made any bolt in's I designed (first post). I'll dig up a link for that in a minute. I know MaritimeMan has the same set up and got his pan hard rod back on. What ? Is ya panzy ?? Sorry. You may be able to re-drill the body mount lower but I'll have to look in the morning to see if it is a good idea. I seem to remember it isn't that easy... The panhard rod keeps the rear axle(or body) from shifting laterally. If you look, you'll see that not much else holds it that direction. Having lateral movement at freeway speeds could get unfunny fast, especially if you have to swerve or something + you now have an even higher CG. Lets not take her for a roll, shall we ?? I recommend setting the truck on the ground, piling the rear cargo with TONS of weight until it sags enough for you to connect the bar while someone else is pushing on the body or you have a jack/come along doing the same thing. That'll get you home and driving a while till you get something proper figured out. I may be able to help... B Found it... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4454&hl=

Hey Bob, about the spongy butt, I'd guess the shocks are probably shot (or one of them at least) but the springs may be tired also. Does the rear end sag, ie. seems lower than the front ? Some people like the cone filter, some stay with the stock box for better water protection. A muffler would make it sound better and give you a slight gain. I have a Magnaflow. Ideally headers, free flow cat and muffler is desired, but we wont go there now... Here is a link to a brief 'issues' post... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28 If you have an auto tranny, you want to bypass the stock cooler (built into the radiator) and run an aftermarket. Plenty of good reading in the Garage/Tech Section to get you started. I have to ask ? Why was the motor replaced at 95K ?? Timing belt break ? B

Don't go there !! The asshat PO epoxy'd (or welded or something) a carbon fiber shifter knob on. I don't mind at all except that I couldn't remove the boot when I pulled the tranny. It made that part a biach !! :furious: B

Well, it's not a gift certificate, thats for sure... I see no harm in it though. As for the mass email, well, the ones who can do that sort of thing are AWOL. I'm just a Mod with a wretched little set of tools. B

LMAO. Hardwaretoad is always talking about 'snowbirds'. And here I thought he was a bird watcher or it was a some sort of fetish thing... Heads up for the cars that seem to be driving themselves Bud ! B

Sorry Bud, can't really even see what you are asking about... Not that I'd know. While its hard to tell by the picts, the damage doesn't look that bad. I'm guessing $2600. Whats that big plasticy foam look looking thing where your bumper is supposed to be ?? Plural, eh ? Why you sly dog... B

Well, so who has actually printed them out, carries them in their car and has put them on someones Pathy ??? I did just a few minutes ago. I think I scared the young girl standing in the drive way as when I got out she ran away, but I'm used to that... Pulled over today and penned the link for someone also... The process has started ! B

The typical 'poor mans lift' includes JGC or Ford springs for the rear, and torsion bars re-indexed and cranked up for the front. After market UCA's are recommended as are stiffer/longer shocks. Next step would probably be an idler arm brace... The first part is virtually free, and UCA's and shocks can be had for about $300. This alone will make a significant difference, and provide 2-3" of lift. The Garage/How To section will provide the details While you could fab up an idler arm brace (search will show several versions, all basically the same), I do NOT recommend making your own CA's unless the vehicle is a strict off road trailer queen, both for alignment and safety reasons. I cant remember the name of the prefered UCA's right now... B

And here I thought you bought 48 instant shrimp flavored rice bowls... Cool, and congrats !! Definitely show us picts when it is mounted and a review for it's actual usefulness, I have heard mixed reviews... B

Hey Dowser... Nice job on painting and cleaning things up, that rear looks new now ! You really need to get the panhard rod back on. General concensus is that it is unsafe to drive without. Your rear axle will have little to keep it from lateral shift, meaning your rear end will be looser than a $10... Well, it will be bad ! Do you have a body lift ? Just the JGC springs shouldn't put things so out of line that you cant reattach it at a bit of an angle. Try loosening the shock mounts, jacking it up and pushing on either the body or axle to get that 1/2" you need... Then post a pict of the angle of it when you have it attached. You may need a drop mount for it. Something like this maybe... B