Precise1

Didn't Vengeful tear one off ?? Strut, that is... There is a good selection in Cali... I have never heard complaints of rust from the R50 owners like that of the late year WD21 owners who live in salt states. I doubt it is just the newer factor though, probably different steel or treatment... B

I don't know how inclined you are, but the stats for the front disk is .945" minimum thickness and .630" for the rear (if they are different and I'm reading this crappy chart right). You'll need blade or pin micrometers to get a good reading. If they can be turned, do it. Here is onfo on possible caliper trouble... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2076 That may save you some $ right now (and future) and with proper servicing, you should have no problems. Off hand, I don't know of aftermarket rotors for the WD21 as most people don't seem to need to upgrade. Probably because they cant go fast enough... B

Hey Sammy, there was a recent thread about this, and it was generally agreed that it is a PITA due to the extra petal (mounting and linkage), master cylinder, different rear end ratios, drive shaft lengths, etc. Thats a poor summary, but it doesn't seem that easy to do... I'll look for it tomorrow. Hate to say it, but find a good 90-95 manual then sell the auto (for a proffit hopefully) ? B

Thanks for posting that guys... That seems to be the same as the VG30i diagram in Chiltons MZ. Thanks for trying Bob, I'm not sure what the issue is, maybe .pdf format... Does that help you nloach ? I'll still look for my CD tomorrow as it pisses me off that I don't know where it is ! Let us know. B

Hey Bud. My Chiltons has a diagram I could post, but it is for the VG30i and what they show for the VG30E are crap photos. I'm not sure where my CD with the schematics is either. I hope you can wait till tomorrow when I look for it. If no one else chimes in and you need it tonight, let me know. I'll make it priority; it can't be far... B

RedPath88 has had exactly the same issue, except he lost the motor... Makes me think that inspecting the keyways and key is important if one removes the crank pully. Definitely something to note ! I'm glad you aren't chasing ghosts any more and that we helped. B

*snicker* Wow Slick, that is a horribly accurate account on several different levels... :o Well Vidro, are you wiping your dipstick ? WTF ? Are you on level ground ? Does the oil look like green oatmeal ? Have you touched your MAF yet ? You only need 3.5-3.75 qts, depending on the year, and I have forgotten yours... B

Thanks, yes, I had forgotten... Everything you said makes sense and you certainly know what you are doing ! What you label as easy would be an undertaking for me. Lets hope you aren't missing something ! Easy on the beer though, especially around the welder ! So, you planning a trip to the US when I try my first SAS ?? Plenty of and :furious: B

The AIV is basically for smog purposes. The only possible issues I could think of is clogging the CAT easier or fouling the O2 sensor faster but I'm not sure to what degree. If you have no emissions testing and dont really care about poluting, I'm fairly certain it can be removed. I have no idea if 88 has done this, but you may be waiting a while for his response; he is currently indisposed. I'm sure others will chime in... B

How old and what weight is the tranny oil ? Does it match your local weather conditions ? Especially now that things are getting colder ? I put GL4 85-90 in it (instead of recommended GL4 75-90) as thats all I could find at the time and the weather is hotter here in Cali. I also put in a quart+ of lucas oil stabilizer for good luck when I overfilled the tranny case with 5 qts as per this TSB. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621 When it is 'cold' here, I notice the tranny shifting hard sometimes in 1st and (rarely)2nd for the first mile or so. I find that double clutching it (depressing the clutch, shifting into neutral, releasing the clutch, depressing the clutch and engaging the gear) makes it opperate smoothly at those times, especially when you are in the speed range of the gear. Changing the fluid and bleeding the clutch, then checking/adjusting the pedal engagement is also recommended and easy to do. We'll assume the master cylinder is working right for now. You don't necessarily have a problem per se... B

Are you doing this for clearance issues, different gearing or better front suspension ? I was under the impression that the Nissan trannys and drive train were pretty rugged and reliable... B

I'm assuming you have the stock rims, so back spacing should not be part of the issue. Yes, 235/75/15 should fit easily with no rubbing issues on a stock truck. Odds are that the T-bars have sagged, so yes, try tightening the sdjusters a bit; that should cure it. Remember to turn them both the same amount. Since it is so easy to adjust, I recommend just 1/2 turn at a time and testing inbetween. It shouldn't take more than 1-2 turns. Hopefully the front end wont be higher than the rear then... Let us know how it went. Thanks. B

I figure that if the mechanic just had the rotors off, the wheel bearings are probably set correctly... B

I HIGHLY recommend getting a manual. This sort of thing is well covered in them. I find Chiltons to be ok for most anything you would want to do. They can be had for about $20 and will pay for themselves on the first job... That said, basically, all you need is an allen wrench for the 6 socket head cap screws (5 or 6mm, I cant remember) and maybe snap ring pliers but I don't think you have to go that deep. Remove the auto lock hub housing and disassemble... Clean the parts and repack with grease (bearing grease should be fine). Make sure to lay the parts out in order and direction of installation and you can't go wrong... If you mix something up, you have the other side for reference. Just go slow and pay attention. B

Odds they are not until you back up somewhere down the road... Page 2-19 of the 95 owners manual "Auto-lock hubs will not disengage until the vehicle is moved about 3 feet in the opposite direction of travel" I translate that to "back up !" B

LOL Red, I have been on the side of the road trying to change a tire and end with a broken tire star (not defective as I was jumping on it) trying to get the lug nuts loose. Ever since then I have had to threaten to shoot the service manager in the groin to get them to leave the lug nuts just snug so I can torque them in the parking lot before I leave !! But we digress... You definitely need the same calipers on sides !! If you have that, try 'rebuilding' them. It's more of a cleaning than anything else. There is a post about greasing the slide pins in the Garage/How To section. All of this certainly applies, but I have a hunch it is the bushings... B

Well, the problem there is that the 'pros' you are talking about are making $15/hr tops and are under pressure to 'wham, bam, thank you' for the chains profits. I was forced to deal with things like brakes as soon as I could drive as I had no $ for a mechanic. Now I think I'm totally competent, more than most shops... I prefer to do my own brakes/bearings/etc (I dont even let shops torque the lug nuts) as like you, I take it seriously. Too serious to let some chump mess with them. It all comes down to experience and a place to work, but I'd rather do it myself and have myself to blame if I screw it up. No blame yet... B

*snicker* Sounds like you have true division of labor Green, one for the road, one for the hills.. :cool2: Yeah, for a truck that goes off road, I like as few gadgets as possible. They are only a liability in my book. B

Yes Animal, to disengage the hubs you need to back up 3+ feet after putting the transfer case back into 2hi. Engaging 4x4 is on the fly, disengaging is not... B

Good call V6, sticking pistons on one side or mismatched calipers (one with a different piston size or design) could easily engage before the other side, creating the 'pull' effect... B

Here is a general buffet of suppliers... It's not quite organized like you indicated, and spans both WD21 and R50 models, but it's what we have... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5343 The location is somewhat obscure... Garage/Tech Section, so it doesn't suprise me you didn't run across it. Anywho, take a look and see if it helps... B

Seeing as the brakes have been done recently and fairly completely, we'll assume that is not the issue. That means something is moving when the brake force is applies. Shot bushings may do this. In particular, I'm thinking about the compression rod bushings, although others (control arm, etc) could be part of the issue. I'd go there next... Good luck, and keep us informed please. B

Thats interesting... I believe I know and have that sound somewhat, but I have no idea as to the validity of the information. I have some work to do on the truck and I'll try to check it out. Thanks for the post and link ! B

Calm down V6. Yes, you have a point but you are getting carried away. No crime was commited. Sammy, it does help to be clear in the title and first post. If for no other reason than it makes searching for information much more fruitful. Glad you are getting what you needed. B

Yow !! Glad you didn't roll it or anything !! So the answer seems to be 30 mph in 4lo and 45 in 4hi. Do not engage on the fly above 25 mph. Be completely stopped when shifting to and from 4lo. Yeah, I have never even tieid engaging on the fly, but it is nice to know you can. What's odd is that I'm almost certain that the D720 I drove for years had exactly the same auto locking hubs on it, and the manual specified to only engaging ANYTHING when stopped... I just treat them gently... B