Precise1

The right way to do it is start with the farthest wheel from the master cylinder first. So for you and the pathy, you would do the reas pass, then rear driver, then front pass and finally, front driver. If I am replacing the brake fluid, I bleed the first wheel till I know I'm getting fresh fluid, and then do the same to the others. I'm assuming you have a buddy to press and hold the petal on command so you can loosen and tighten the bleed nipple. I use aquarium tubing for bleeding so I can see that there is no particulate matter, old fluid or bubbles still comming out. On my 95, the fluid resivoir splits 1/2 way down; that means it will run out of fluid 2x as fast. Take your time and keep it topped off. If you suck air, you have to start over !! B

Hey Mr P, Chiltons states that there is a relay for the blower, located to the side of your left foot. The clutch interlock switch, etc is down there also. Could you have kicked around some of the wiring down there ? Things gotten wet, maybe from leaky windshield seal ? Just guessing at this point, but it is begining to sound like wiring/relay/fuse type issue... Sorry, I don't know much about electrical, but thats where I would troubleshooting. B

Ahh, well, be sure to have the old one bench tested just to make sure... B

As Animal pointed out, that was a pretty stupid thing for the mechanic to say. I suppose that you could have worn seals in the MC that are shrinking in extreme cold... Definitely bleed it first, and change the fluid entirely if it is old or contaminated. That just might flush crud out of the MC that could be causing problems also... B

After you jumped it the first time, how far/long did you drive it ? I'm assuming the battery was fully charged when they tested it (required) ? It may be the alt, but start by checking all the wires and connections on the battery and alt. Sometimes you can get lucky... B

Yeah, thanks for rubbing it in Red !! I generally settle for making an ass out of myself once per scenario. I try to come up with something new for you... B

I'm not sure how to check the alt for amperage output, electrical is not my strong point. While it is probably not the case, have you looked at the connections, grounding, fusable link ? Maybe you are just not getting good conductivity ? I know if you pull the alt, some auto stores can bench test them, but I'd call to make sure they are looking at amps also, not just volts... If the connections/etc are good I'd have to guess the alt is bad. There is a free one offered to a needy home in the classified section... B

DJ D's originally distributed stickers are 4x12" themselves. Add 1/4" minimum for backing,triming, etc... Thanks MZ, let us know. BIG thanks to DJ Dank for dealing with the whole process and getting the first run made !! While this still doesn't address windshield stickers, it is a vast improvement over the nothing that was available before. I do still have a few extras, so start kissing up !! B

I agree with what you said wheel, but I have read that wrong ?? The Pathy 3.0 takes 4 quarts on a good day... B

I recommend staying the stock ones even after you crank them level/index them. If it seems uneven when driving then, you may have to replace them, but in my book, start with the free options first... I don't know of other manufacturers other than Calmini but there might be some. The advantage is that they are generally stiffer so things don't flex as easily. The draw backs are that it must put more load on other components, and in SEVERE circumstances, they can break easier, but that is not normal. I'd say work with that you have first. B

As far as I know, those are not performance parts. Quality does matter to some degree as you don't want to have them fail/replaced often. I would suggest OE or at least OEM parts and you can probably find a good deal on line. I believe the stock thermostat is 180F, but couldn't find the info easily. Where are you/what temperature do you deal with ? Here is a long list of sources... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5343 Get back to us about the temp range... B

My pleasure, and you are welcome. B

Slow down Green, please... The only thing not answered in the link I posted is the adjustable suspension part. As far as I know, that was only on the SE package... Other than that it seems like a 90% mix and match between the XE and SE package. Things excluded are rear disks, sun roof and adjustable shocks, not to mention better gauges and dual trip odometers. Other than that, the field is open. I'm sure I'm missing some details, but thats about it. MZ was more pointing out the overlap in threads... That becomes an issue here sometimes and he was just trying to keep things clear. He's a mellow, helpful guy; take it with a grain of salt and give him another chance before you have attitude. Thanks Bud. Oh, about the LSD, there should be an orange sticker on the pumpkin (which doesn't seem to fall off at all) but the true check is to jack up and spin a wheel. if the other spins the same direction, you have LSD... B

Not to mention what kind of beer it is and how much you consume. If it were Coors Light, it'd be a 1 beer job tops... B

Yes MZ, but really that was a poll, it just happens to pretty much answer his question; there is NO cut and dry answer. I figured he'd just read to top to bottom and understand. B

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6705 B

24" ratchet extension with a universal adapter takes care of those easily. Helps if you have a buddy to guide the socket on at first though... B

As I understand it, the high endurance or synthetic oils have a longer molecule chain than dino oils. That means that they take longer to break down than the shorter molecule chains from the shear factor, therefore providing 'longer lasting' lubrication. One thing it does not account for (other than the filter change intervals) is the oil fouling due to gasoline/exhaust blow by that occurs in all engines. I'm not an expert on this, but it seems that running oil 10,000 miles will mean it is heavily contaminated, regardless of the lubricity, although that must suffer also. I prefer to run dino oil and change it every 3000 miles max. I can see using hybrid/synth oils in the drive train components though. It makes far more sense there where the high temp and blow by factors are not an issue. B

*snicker* B

Sorry TeenZ, that was out of line... You know what I mean. What is the issue to get it tightened ? My spare is out side, so picts would help; I don't know the set up. We'll get it figured out... B

Yep, no suprise... I've looked down and seen the same myself. Careful of your head, and be gentle with the knees. You don't need scar tissue in either and tendons don't heal as fast as muscle. Patience will be your friend with this one, take it from someone who has been here. I'm sure bicycles will still exist in spring... B

Hey DJ D. It sounds like either they don't want/need your business or they are a 1/2 a$$ed shop. Not criticising the stickers I have, they seem well done, but it shouldn't be so hard to get more... Any one know of a shop or have contacts ?? Thanks for all the work you did to get us the stickers DJ D. Lets see if we can find an easier venue for the next round. B

Hey Earth1, any input to the experiment ? B

At 13 years old and 140K miles, odds are you are right, the bushings are tired. I know mine are, and it's newer and less traveled. While it does depend on how long you plan to have the vehicle, what use/conditions you put it through and what budget you have, poly bushings are better. Energy Suspension is a popular brand. I'm sure there are others, but thats one I remember and have not looked for more. If you go with poly, make sure to use the proper grease. Here is some info on that. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5245&st=20 All that said, OEM will do you good for a while, as anything is better than shot bushings... B

I suspect that one would live, but probably never walk normally again as that would shatter your legs. I could see broken ribs, internal injuries, and neck/back damage as a possibility also, but thats just a guess. I'd rather avoid the whole affair myself... B I'd be better off on my motorcycle just clearing the obsticle (read catapulted) sailing 100 yards and skipping/tumbling to a stop. Don't ask me how I know...