Precise1

Well, without the chains and not lowering the plow, the ppsi that thing applies is probably not much worse than a Pathy (depending on tire size and pressure of course). From there it just goes to what you do with the thing. I do know I'd love to drive one... B

Supply him with a free "Mall Rated" sticker as a consolation prize !! B

I have heard to break in the motor with dino oil then switch to synth and that some older vehicles with high miles may leak more with synth... Neither really applies to you so I'm not sure why I said that... B

Geez Simon, 87-108 ft lbs or 118-147 Nm is the proper torque, so only about 1/3 your weight on a 1 foot bar... Make sure to clean the hole before you put in the new stud (wire bruch and brake cleaner), you do NOT want any crud or lubricants in the hole. A press is the right way to do it, but you can use your truck, some wood blocks and a bottle jack... Presto, instant 1-2 ton press... B

Ahh, thanks... Still, why even go down there... foolishness at best !! B

Ya lost me MZ... Well V6, I'm slowly gathering info about options... We'll see were it all goes. B

Yeah, I believe I posted a link to that in the PoHo thread about 1-2 months ago... No worries, you are forgiven... B

Well, it was just a thought I had and became a suggestion I made... Unfortunately a lot of people have a hard time remembering to tell us everything that is pertinent or just don't understand that it is... Filthy, I see your point about huge sig's and agree, some are annoying, but I also don't see any harm in 1/2 a line description to keep things clear. It's just a suggestion, nothing more. Oh, you should have seen this site when people had 500k avatars... My dial up modem is still smoking !! B

That is an outrageous savings !! Personally I hate the crappy solid cover and bail design, but you get what you pay for. Only thing I would question is longevity, but if they failed twice as often, it's still a deal. I'll try to source US parts tommorrow for comparison... Keep up informed !! B

Yes, it is, obviously, but it is not terribly... My thoughts are to SAS it, and align the front axle to the rear, who cares if it sits slightly skewed. Have the frame measured relative to the rear, get an idea of there the hangers need to go relative to current frame horns, cut and weld away, put in the leafs and axle and have it aligned to the rear. I'm new to this, but I think that pretty much covers it. Isn't that a benefit to leafs and solid axle, that they are somewhat adjustable ? What am I missing ? B

So how does one actually do that without trying ?? No handbrake ?? I don't get it... B

Actually, I think you are wrong about that V6... All I need to do is get a solid axle in it straight (leafs would help 'cause you can adjust the shackles somewhat) and it would be ready for action. But yes, I have considered swapping. Problem is there are virtually NO dead pathys here in Cali and I have no place to to tackle a project like that now. As for how to do it, just run your truck into a cement barrier on a dark and rainy winter morning. It's easy, I'm sure you could do it !! B

And one more to try to help with the lack of depth perception. The frame is shifted rearward (directly) on the right side (if sitting in the car) up front by about 5mm max (evident by the cant of the body mounting bolts) but lessens to the rear where the last bolt is perfectly vertical. Quite frankly, an insurance company would have totaled it; I'm in it for about $1500-$1800 for repairs so far. It doesn't drive too bad but corners like crap. With 115k miles, a new clutch and it running like a dream it would be a waste to throw away, but I doubt a stock type front end would ever be worth a crap. I think I made my own SAS doner... Get back to me about... B

This is the side view of the left where the real damage is, you can see the crease and bend in the frame horn. B

This is the underside left. B

This is the underside of the right (if sitting in the car) frame horn... B

Thanks 88, but I have all that stuff new in a box, but I won't install it until I put in the AC condensor. I've been trying to buy one with the mounting hardware and the drivers side like back to the pump, but 3 people have totally flaked on me and one guy wanted the same as a new one... Sorry for the wait V6. Between the holidays, the GF and the rain, things have been busy and miserable. Ok, here are some shots. It's pretty hard to get good angles and depth perception, but we'll start here and you can specify for others if you want. This is the old cross member. It was never touched in the accident, the damage is from the frame horns pulling in. The &*^%$ shop it first went to bent things back (straight) without replacing that piece although I told them to. Yes, I got almost all my $ back but the damage was done. Second shop put a new cross piece in, then tried to bend things straight (back in) and did a good job considering... B

I've noticed some confusion due to people not fully stating what vehicle they have when they start a thread. There are enough differences that things can get confused or delayed. Sometimes I'll check the persons profile, and the info is not complete there either. It's in your own best interest to supply this information, both for accuracy and speed of response. Sometimes I'll just pass over a thread if it is so vague there is no point to reply. Same thing goes for 27 questions being asked at once; it gets confusing. I suggest that you members put the year, trim level, type of transmission at minimum in your signature. Additional items would be things like if you have a Turbo Diesel, 2x4, LSD, etc... It's up to you, I'm just trying to keep things working smoothly. Thanks !! B For those of you who don't know, enter "My Controls" on the top right, "personal Profile/Edit Signature" at the bottom left and type in the field...

Yes, definitely GL-4 only for the manual tranny !! I think thats the only really picky one other than if you have the LSD rear end. MT: 5qts GL-4 75w-90 or 80w-90 Transfer case: 2.4 pts ATF Dextron Front axle: 3.1pts GL-5 80w-90 Rear axle: 5.9 pts GL-5 80w-90 LSD rear: Same but with limited slip additive Power Steering: ATF Dextron Putting in the compatible synthetic in the tranny, and front and rear differentials is a good idea unless you do a lot of water crosssings. You'd change the oils so much it would cost a mint... I haven't owned an auto tranny for a long time, so I don't know much about grades of ATF. B (info is for a 95)

Sounds to me like you need to crank/re-index/replace the torsion bars and replace the shocks (if the front are that bad, the rear are probably worn out also). From there I'l install diffferent springs in the rear (do you have Jeep Grand Cherokee's/Ford f150's or equivalent there ? If so get them used from a junk yard). This will give you a suspension lift equal to a 2"BL and stiffen the suspension. If you just do a BL you will have the clearance, but your suspension will still be mush. If and how you do the SL, you should have a bit of $ left over and can go from there... B

For the extra $30, I'd just replace the entire assembly... Like was said, especially if it has a good warranty... It's annoying enough to remove that you probably dont want to do it often, not to mention get stuck somewhere. I agree with your battery voltage assessment, even the VW Bug part. My old Baja converted to 12V with the stock 6V starter would start with a dead battery... Which Bug do you have ? I'm fixing up a 78 Convert... :cool2: B

Old news... Yeah pretty cool, but can you SAS it ?? B

Definitely check your connections at the battery, ground and starter. From there try the test (and hammer) method low rider outlined. After that, odds are it is the starter. Pull it and have it tested. I think I'm gorgetting something, I'm not sure. I don't know about the tranny light, but the stock tranny oil coolers in the radiator are prone to clogging. Most people bypass them and use an aftermarket, they tranny runs much cooler then. I don't see why the tranny would show 'overheat' first thing in the morning. Perhaps that sensor is bad ? Do you have a manual for the vehicle so you can locate it ?? B

Well vidro, you were somewhat incomplete with your discription. Just how far did you get the quart bottle nossle into the guys ear canal ? Were you able to squirt some in to help lubricate his thought process ? sly I guess you missed that, eh ? Yep, pure logic at it's finest !! I had similiar experiences, but at 4 different stores in the same day. My tranny was out of the truck, and I needed the gear oil... Every store 'helper' said a variant of the same thing... "Just put this in" or "this should be fine, it works for everything". Thankfully, I knew GL-4 was required but when I tried to explain that, their eyes glazed over and their jaws went even more slack as they would tonelessly repeat "GL-5 replaces GL-4" or "well, it says right on the bottle...". I finally found some dino 85-90 and settled for that. Someone with knowledge described that the additives in GL-5 are harder then the ones in GL-4 (or something like that) and chews things up on a micro level. May as well throw in some sand while you're at it !! Maybe I can find the post... Ordering on line would probably be the best bet. I'll try to look around today as I'll be wanting some soon myself... B

I just would have fixed the damn wiper... Yeah, just for kicks, when I wrote about it, I walked across the street and looked at the one on the neighbors truck. The 'spoiler' is VERY sturdy formed aluminum, the plastic hinge pieces SUCK !! I can see them being especially bad after 10-15 years of heat, cold, etc. Hmm, maybe I should make some billet aluminum ones as should have been done originally. As for loads shifting (or a buddy pushing or pulling at the wrong time) shet happens... Cool that you like yours, but I don't want one.. B