Precise1

LMAO... Any you said you weren't a creative writer !! What are you trying to do, get me to shat my spleen ? I've spent 5 minutes catching my breath, wiping up beer and drool just so I could respond ! Sorry about the frustration with the installation job... I've been there many years ago, not having any of the right tools, and it just makes 'normal' jobs a pain in the arse !! I have to say you should have read the directions more than 5 minutes before the job and not tried to finagle it with out real tools. As manly as I am, I have learned that already... What, are you going to screw up installing the skid plate I made you ?? Maybe, that required drilling also... Ok, I'm done being dad... Um, you just explained why I have steadfastly refused to get a cell phone. I get plagued enough as it is, I have NO desire to be on call for BS for the rest of my life !! Holding strong so far, wish me luck !! Holy crap about the spider, but I'm glad it didn't get ya and drag you down a hole and lay eggs on your stomach !! I hate big bugs like that ! Yeah, arachnid... it's a big F-ing bug !! Glad you got the bastage, and keep your eyes peeled before you try to do the work again... Maybe a buddy with a base ball bat or flame thrower would be helpful in case they are after you ! B

Ok, well I read through most of that... Here is what I noted. You... Them... That stated that you get the same kind of benefits, and the x-drilled are MORE prone to cracking. I must note that the slotting has 6 grooves while the x-drilling has at least 4x as many features !! That makes no sense, of course it would be weaker like that ! Baer both slots and x-drills the rotors in staggered patterns and they are a top race component provider... Prostop both slots (not through) and dimples (not through) their rotors. I can see the advantage in that easily off hand. But... All of these companies refer to "race track" use or "severe usage"... While I'm all for beefy brake components and understand that larger tires increase the strains involved, I highly doubt the Pathys spend much time on the Indy circut, much less generate the extended, high speed braking forces of track cars. As I mentioned before, the x-drilling (or slotting) needs to be engineered, not done in a drill press in the shed... Personally, I think aftermarket pads, steel braided lines and good brake fluid would be as far as one would need to go, but in light of this discussion, I doubt there is any significant issue with using drilled or slotted rotors from a competent company on Pathfinders for anything they are able to do... From a page in a different book, here is a pict of a factory drilled rotor off of a superbike. 2 up front, with a total weight of 800lbs rated up to 200mph. These cobwebs will put up with that kind of abuse being 310mm diameter and only 5 mm thick at the rotor (the thickest part) with the readable stamp saying 4mm minimum thickness. Now, go look at the rotors on the Pathy... B

Thanks for the link Bud... Yeah, you goofed that one V6... No worries, but a sorry would be nice. I suggest you read through the provided link Sammy, and then return here (or post there) with anything that has not been answered... B

I'd say you got a good deal for $150 !! As was said, the Pacemakers are still superior to the stock manifolds !! That is absolutely the right attitude; as long as you keep it you will do both... B

Well, considering that the factory alarm has not worked since the truck was broken into when the PO had it, I have no remote, and don't even know if all the parts are there... I'm no damn help here, am I ?? Maybe this winter I'll look into it when I cant work outside... It's nice to lock yourself in the truck to get away from the GF during THOSE times... B

I think his project has grown since he has first considered it. I'm sure he has learned a lot on the way which has lead him to this point. I think he would have jumped on an available SAS kit in the begining if there was one. Seriously, how many people have the know how, resources and time to figure out an SAS on their own ? I agree with you that it would be a better idea from the start, but it takes a lot more than just saying 'just SAS it'. If he went with leaf springs, would you say 'why didn't you coil over it' ? Where does it end ? Everyone has to start somewhere, and I give him credit for tackling the 2wd to 4wd conversion alone. Lets see where it goes, and help where we can. B

Yes, it is a concern in my book, but only 1 factor in the whole picture. The BL only gives you more wheel well space and more room in the engine compartment. The SL is more valuable and effective IMHO. My consideration is adding a BL to a SL when not necessary... That just compounds several issues, not to mention when people pile their roofs high with crap... CG goes WAY up then and low trees cause problems... Again, it's all about how you use your truck and where. There is no real right or wrong, just application and personal preference... SAS first, then we'll go from there... B

They totaled it for that !!!??? WTF ??? Sheesh, the damage was 2-3x that on mine when I crashed it and I got it back on the road for <$2k (although it still needs some work). What I would do is find out if there is any significant unibody tweak. If not, find out what the buy back amount would be. With some luck you can buy back for $3k, put $2-3k in it to have everything fixed (within reason), forget the freakin airbags (they are just for wimps and fat lips) and have $2-3k to mod it, pay off some bills or buy more body armor for racing (you can NEVER have enough). If you just dont want to go there, I'd suggest a Fronty if you want to stick with Nissan. Hell find out about the unibody condition and the buy back amount. I may just fix it up for my GF... B

Pretty cool Bud !! I didn't know you have a Maxima and went by Margaret though... B

No criticism taken. Something like Filthy said. I do not plan to run greater than 31" tires on this truck, they are big enough so I don't need huge wheel well gaps. Besides, IMHO thats all the stock motor can pull effectively. I may do headers in the future, but will probably just enjoy the power boost rather than increase tire size. I don't like the CG any higher than necessary. My opinion is that a BL is mainly for huge tires or deep water/mud (it can save rocker panels though). I'm a cautious wheeler; my goal is NOT to get stuck. I plan to do a SAS and may need that extra 1-2" for articulation. A 1" lift has far fewer issues than a 3". I could probably make my own 1.5" lift for free other than the material and some bolts. I'm not trying to build a rock crawler, my truck is a daily driver (in the winter at least), just build a reliable, capable 4x4. It just comes down to how you want to set it up. To me, taller is not necessarily better, and the driver is just as important at the rig... B

Hmm a 'normal' warranty would probably be 1 year parts and labor maybe with a milage clause (12-15K). He may not warranty the parts if you supply them, meaning that if they fail, you have to get new parts and pay for labor all over again. I'd remark to him casually that you don't wheel it, and seeing how clean your truck is, he'll believe you. (make sure to wash the underside if it is coated with mud). My experience with small shops like that is you'll either get good service and reliable support, or a slam bam thanks for the cash attitude. I suspect the former. I recommend driving out and looking at the place... See any imports ? Does the place look 1/2 way organized with decent tools/equipment. If so, stop, introduce yourself and talk to him about it for a bit. Trust your instincts, they are usually right. B

Agreed, but they accomplish significantly different things. If all one is after is running bigger tires, then the BL is the better/cheaper/easier way to go. If I ever do a BL, it will be 1-2"MAX. I'm all about the suspension... B

While I have not done a clutch on an R50, that seems like a fine deal. As long as they give you some kind of warranty, I jump on it !! Sooner the better... B

Um, no... Steel baby, steel !! B

Yep, that seems to be the general concensus... Fitment for the Pace Setters (I like to call them Pacemakers as thats what you need 1/2 through the job) generally sucks and creates a lot of issues. So from reading, I'm assuming you didn't have the stock studs replaced with the upgraded (not prone to snapping) kind ? DOH !! That probably should have been done... I hope you dont have problems down the line with them !! Sorry about the headache and hope you get the truck back and in order ASAP. *snicker* $10 says he used the wrong kind !! B

I bought all my clutch parts (claimed OEM) on line for about $180 +shipping. I can send you links if you like, but it sounds like you don't need the,. Also that was for a WD21, not R50... $1000-$1500 seems to be the 'normal' price range. Yes, many places wont install parts you bring, or will not warranty them. I recommend asking people for a import shop they recommend that is not the stealership or a chain shop. Go talk to them, I think you often get better service and more flexibility, but use your judgement. Ideally, you do it in someones garage over a weekend and save $500+, but if you dont have the experience (or someone who does), a place to work on it and the proper tools, don't mess with it. The transfer case is not really an issue, but you generally have to pull the torsion bars and use a tranny jack as they are big and heavy. Not hard work, but a fair amount of it. B

I was under the impression that they cool better (more surface area) and cleared water and dirt better... If they crack easily, then they were either poorly done or the rotor is not strong enough design to allow for it. Cross drilling is supposed to be engineered and supported by stress analysis and thermal conductivity... Just out of curiosity, how many of the R50 drivers that have rotor issues have automatic trannys ? B

Not only does that hurt the wallet, it's just down right embarassing !! I'm guessing that the second tranny was well used and in poor shape when it was installed. It shouldn't fail that easy ! Sorry to hear it and good luck with the next one !! B

Ok, I understood everything other than That makes more sense. Glad to hear that part was straightened out. I don't wish hives on the old man anymore. Now the thief on the other hand... Buckshot !! B

Static: My truck zaps me in the summer (in Cali), every time I get out, and hard. Thats with or without seat covers. I even tried driving nekked a few times, but same thing and you get shocked in odd places... :o If you have a passenger, let them get out first !! Clutch: Yep, yours is gone ! If the truck is mostly city driven, driven agressively, or poorly driven, 100k is about right for stock components. How long can you go ? until the truck won't move anymore but I don't recommend this. The flywhel should be turned for a 'text book' clutch replacement. If it is not badly glazed, scored or doesn't have surface cracks you can get away with out it. The longer you drive with a worn and slipping clutch, the more likely it will have some/all of the problems above. A machine shop wanted $50 to turn mine but I was able to buy a reconditioned one (read turned) with a new ring gear for $65 with a core replacement. No brainer. They WONT accept yours as a core if it has bad surface cracks. Make sure that everything is replaced (clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bushing, etc). you don't want to have to go there again for another 100k+. Get it done as soon as you can is my advice before it leaves you stuck, buggers things up or over rev's the motor. My clutch was so light and smooth at first, I thought I did something wrong. Now it has settled back to to a reasonable creaky, groaning stiffness... At least I can tell what it is doing... B

Ahh, I see that Trainman already provided you with the link ( ) so all thats left for me to do is vote for the WD21 (1st edition) as the best by far, and move this thread. B

You and not the thief who was the driver ? Of course he probably doesn't have anything to pay with... You have to love the mentality of sue happy people. Doesn't he have (whats that wierd thing...) property insurance ? Idiot. He'd have less of a wall after pulling something like that with me... B

10.5x31" tires fit on chromies (6" rims) so you could put 11.5x32 on leggos (7"). You will rub with 32" tires as V states without different backspacing, a body lift, or maybe some suspension lift. It is really worth the extra cost for .5" of ground clearance ? Up to you and your wallet... B

They are not dumb questions. The coils are replacement units for the rear suspension. Here is the link that explains it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18 Thorley makes good headers for the WD21. There are cheaper, but they are exactly that in quality also... Pacemaker is one that comes to mind... B

^ What the boss said. If the cap is cracked, replace it, and the rotor at the same time. Pull ? They may be suctioned on or have firm/corroded contacts. Make sure just to pull on the boot. Pliers can be helpful if you are gentle, particularly the ones with the groove (lineman's pliers ?) Manual says replace plugs every 30k miles, so thats a good time to check/replace the cap and rotor. Good wires should last longer, but I generally do a full tune up every 2 years just before Cali smog test time so I have never used those components till they fail. B