Precise1

What is this, 'resurect ancient posts' day ? Purpose is... ??? B

Thank you V for the detailed and accurate answer to a COMPLETELY RHETORICAL QUESTION !! B

Read of it in a thread here a while back. A few people chimed in that they were more prone to breaking. Thats about all I know. It doesn't seem to be a common occurrence... How many people have broken T-bars, stock or not ?? B

Can you just crank them up a bit without reindexing ? It usually just takes a little bit. While I'm sure you can torque them too far, they are designed for it. I have read that some of the stiffer aftermarket T-bars are more prone to breaking then the stock ones, Calmini I believe anyway. I'd say unless you jump the truck a lot, you should be fine. B

Who dug this up and better yet, why ??? B

Lets face it Pezzy, while it isn't HUGE, the WD21's have more draw due to having frames and the sheer number built. I see them like ants here in Cali... B

scp... Go to the Garage forum and look in the How To section at the top. There will be an entire thread about reading the ECU there. As for the othe dingus, I have no idea. B

I'll still argue that dual exhaust is unnecessary for a 3 liter motor, especially with 2.5" pipes, not to mention hard to route. Just seems like extra cost and liability to me. Regardless, The cat doesn't talk to the ECU, just the O2 sensor. Make sure that is in it's proper place and functioning, and you should be good to go. B

*note to self, rebuild entire front end* Looking good there squirrel boy ! You are going to need a ladder soon just to get in... There's a set of Calmini T-bars in the classifieds... B

Well, not to argue, but.... If you are going to set the rear brakes correctly, you start at the drum (especially if you have removed them and monkey'd with things) and work back to the hand brake. Just trying to do it right... : B

You STILL whining about that bumper V ?? Pictures of your fabbed bumper and rock sliders would be great !! As said before, aftermarket for pathfinders is pretty lacking and those are two BIG voids. If your shop were to produce some, I'm sure they would sell. Keep us informed please... B

Ahh, didn't know the drums were off. You need to adjust the brakesat the drum, drive and use them a bit then re-adjust, then adjust the parking brake... Find the shorty, buy another, or hammer out a tool... Setting it right now will make you happy in future, Confucious says... B

Sheesh, can no one just give him a link ??? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18 They are somewhat right about searching. All the info you need is here, just somewhat scattered about. Read the link, do some searches and ask any questions you might have. B

Ok, I'm assuming you have rear drums. Adjust the rear brakes... I generally use the 'tighten till they bind then back 2 clicks' method. As long as they rotate freely. Then, under the truck about where the body slopes up to the cargo level, is the adjuster for the parking brake. Tighten it up... The manual says 7-9 clicks, but as long as you are not dragging, it's probably ok. Thats how mine is and it will hold the truck no problem. How old are the rear shoes ? B

My Z24 NEVER ran hot, even in the desert in sand. I'm thinking you had a worn out fan clutch or scaled up radiator or sticking thermostat or something... Thanks gabod7, glad you enjoyed it. Too bad it is true, I owned one for 11 years... B

Um, yeah... Thanks for the tease... B

I'd guess loosen the bolts a bit more, or you have too short of a belt. There's not much else to it... B

Why thanks for the thought Pezzy, but I prefer jello... Now get your whoring out of respectable threads !! Yes, but I was speaking hypotheticly ?? B

vidro, here is a helpful link. There are several broken bolt posts. Ask me any additional questions. I'd say go ahead and try to remove them. If you have an exhaust leak, depending on the severity and location, it may just tick for a minute on start up (like mine), you could get worse milage, and maybe do damage. They generally just get worse so give it a shot. B

Drivers seat, passengers seat, whatever... If it's not under one of the front seats, it's under the other. Sheesh. Go feed a polar bear Simon... B

LMAO Dowser, you posterchild for birth control.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 Complete 'step by step' instructions for you. Personally, I just keep a hard copy in the glove box. I believe the ECU is under your drivers seat... Have fun and good luck. B

I'm thinking that the land around each exhaust port is there to minimize surface area, thereby increasing pressure on the gasket's actual critical sealing area. (I'm assuming they are flat, smooth and planar from the photo). I could be wrong and they did not get ground, but thats the only area that really matters so I could so them working just fine. It's not like 6 bolts in odd places are going to supply correct pressure to seal the entire manifold surface. I won't even go into warpage. B

With some finess and the right tools, I'm sure you could remove the broken studs without removing the heads. Remember, PB-Blaster, a propane torch, bolt extractors and patience are your friends... B

Driver's side on my 95 I believe... Well, only two choices, I'm sure you'll find it... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 Thats the reading break down... B

I'm guessing it is not the timing belt. (also hoping) I'd check fuel delivery, ignition spark after checking the ECU codes if they do not pin point it. Definitely ask about the timing belt regardless !! :o B