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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Check the ECU for fault codes, there is a write up in the How To section. This is usually the best place to start... You can spot test your O2 sensor (I'll have to look up the specs) and try wiggling the connector to the MAF (right after the airbox). These are both common causes for rough idle and loss of power... B
  2. Yes, bypass the stock radiator tranny 'cooler'. Mine was set up in series when I bought it and I re routed it to only the aftermarket unit a few months ago when I installed a body lift. The problem with the stock cooling is that it is not enough (in my opinion) and is prone to clogging, sometimes (fact), so people just bypass it entirely to negate the possibility. B
  3. 90-95 Pathfinder would be the easiest but engines can be had pre90, maximas, etc. Mainly what changes is bolt on part locations/holes which can be simple or a PITA to deal with. Any VG30E can work, but your are probably best off getting one out of a pathy... B Why is everyone so far away?? I have a motor for sale in NorCal...
  4. The ATF used is essentially light duty hydraulic fluid. No, most people never change it. I plan to change mine as it is fairly dirty in my 'new' truck but it hasn't been priority so I'll let you know when I mess with it. The other option is to do the red neck flush. Use a turkey baster or what ever to suck the reservoir dry, refill with fresh fluid and repeat... B
  5. ^ I believe he is pretty much correct, there was a thread about this recently... 90-95 will work fine but I can't remember about the electronic speedo difference from the 94-95. It'd have to be sensor/wiring difference if any so shouldn't matter... B
  6. You are welcome. Check the wire connection for the MC also... B
  7. I just finished a 2" lift and it wasn't much trouble, just a bit of work. The biggest deal was dealing with the front bumper and replacing the hoses for the power steering tank... B
  8. Just buy another set of stock doors and get creative with a sawsall... B
  9. It may be torqued correctly, but the washer/seal is shot. Make sure to replace it next oil change (any automotive store will have them). B
  10. Cool!! Glad it was so easy and you weren't stuck anywhere, paying for a lot of work... B
  11. Thanks for writing this!! Moved... B
  12. Just an idea Can you plug the lines and rig up something to a garden hose to fill the lines and put them under pressure? B
  13. Well, no real leaks or evidence of friction burned parts then. Tilts things towards electrical or hydraulic? Well, I've exhausted my knowledge. Keep a MT handy like I do... Good Luck. B
  14. I've seen small slits that were very hard to notice unless you flex the line the right way or it is leaking. Same thing with pinches under/next to clamps on the back side of fittings, etc. Just make sure to inspect VERY closely... B
  15. It's definitely not the fan clutch, that would show the opposite symptoms. Cooling ok at speed and temp climbing when going slow/stopped. The fan does nothing for the cooling system over 30-40mph, the wind does it... A quart low is a bit, that could be part of it and did you 'burp' the cooling system to get all the air out? Air can also confuse your sensor. If your gauge was pegged, why didn't it boil over? Sounds like you have some combo of built up scale/corrosion in the passages/radiator (flush should help), funky thermostat and/or radiator issues. I'd have it flushed and then I think you might be able to limp it home (try running the heater full blast with the windows down, no A/C driving at night, etc)) and work on it there if it still isn't good enough. B
  16. Have you checked the fluid level/condition? It could be one more clue... B
  17. Will it fit over the center support? Exactly what I have. Why a 4x4 with an external mount comes with a useless donut emergency spare, I'll never understand... B
  18. As long as you gave me the right size... Matching tires and rims are always a good idea though... B
  19. Like he said, yes, it may. Check the ECU first, a write up is in the How To section, and go from there... B
  20. Either that or buy a new spring. Then there is used... *hint* Parts for Sale section, look for 'R50 parts'... B
  21. Huh? I wouldn't have thought that rust would be an issue there... Clean and rust free is the norm here in NorCal. B
  22. 15x6" will mount a 235/75/15 fine. It's pushing it for 31x10.5 tires and some shops won't mount them. B
  23. I forgot, which one are you?? Fixed that for you... B
  24. I'm willing to bet you don't have 3 feet of clearance... B
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