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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Well, better late than never, I hope... The tool is made by CTA (#6200) and can be found here, among other places. http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_6200.htm It is 1" diameter (.98" actually=24.9mm) x24 spline with a .622" (15.8mm) pilot bushing snout 2" from the spline OD, but from the scrape marks, only about .160" (4mm) engaged. The splines are 1.75" long but I think I only engaged about 1/2 of the length. Like I said, it worked perfectly... Do you need it?? B
  2. I disagree. Install new hoses. The large one going to the pump is 15mm (19/32) and the smaller is (to be filled in later). I bought 2' of both for $6 and trimmed almost in 1/2; 3' would leave you with usable length spares. Most of this is pertaining to 2" body lifts, which I highly recommend due to the easier install. I don't need/want the 3" lift and all the extra issues but if you work on your vehicle, a lift gives you tremendous clearance at many components. Ok, 2 inch lift... For the middle bolts (M10x1.25) with the captive nuts, you have to have the M10x1.25x150mm bolts, NOT the 180MM bolts or you will have a rear floor like mine... (the rear most bolts are in a 3"+ deep well, the middle ones have no more than 1" room!!) Yep, I punched right through. It wasn't hard and I didn't realize unit I heard some metal creaking on the second one. I think the door being open let me hear it. So what I did was cut the bolt down 1" and put on a few more washers which let it pass through the nut, but probably not let it shank out after the threads. (I'll probably replace these with shorter bolts soon for peace of mind). For a 2" lift, you'll need 2 M10x1.25x150mm bolts for the middle chassis fasteners. B
  3. This would have done the same thing out of the gate. Yeah, I have a gator grip socket for GP and they can work, but I generally just use the right socket. Never thought about using one with an impact gun though... B
  4. X2 Fluid change won't do much if the stock cooler (bottom of the radiator) is clogged. Bypass or check it asap. B
  5. I have 2 95XEs, both have a hissing noise that is the fuel pump and both run fine, the pumps aren't failing from what I know. B
  6. All three should be in the top compartment of my roll-around in the garage. I say should be... I'll look next smoke break... B
  7. Yep, same here even though I cut out both of my rear most ones. The entire body shifted forward (1/2 inch?) to where I used a come-along off of the tire carrier to my neighbors Exploder front axle (see, they make great anchors...) to move it back. The problem was when I went to relocate the front bumper (all chassis bolts tightened) it wasn't even side to side so I had to undo the front 4 bolts and pull the nose over a bit; it didn't take much, but it all took time... I'm writing up some info in the pinned Body Lift thread, some geared specifically to 2" lifts, most of it general. Make sure to add what you learned... B
  8. I had bought the specific alignment tool on the internet, 3 actually as I didn't know the exact spline count/pilot diameter. It was still only $20 and the right one worked like a charm first try. Yeah, those damn transmissions are heavy!! B
  9. Throttle position sensor?? Off the top, I'd say wiring/connectors to sensors should be checked and the vacuum lines. I don't know of a "replace this' type answer for this problem. B
  10. Yes, that sounds like it would work. Only problem is to change the timing belt, I believe you have to remove that pully... B
  11. X2 Perhaps your cat is clogged, but I don't know how to test for it. Try cleaning your MAF and if it runs rich (smell exhaust, check the plugs) your O2 sensor may be failing; they don't always throw a code... B
  12. Welcome Larry!! Sadly, this problem is quite rare so there isn't a lot of information on it. Your best source is Red /\ and he already posted. Without mechanical skills/help this bound to be costly. B
  13. That's only .008" thinner. That's not much... B
  14. Yep, first do a physical inspection of the valve and all the plumbing. If you have a repair manual, the testing procedure should be in there, if not, I can look it up later... B
  15. Precise1

    air filter

    Interesting, I had never heard of that. Perhaps Alkorahil will chime in?? B
  16. Not until I can get home to some manuals. It has been posted many times is timing belt threads so if you need the information immediately, search would be your best friend. B
  17. Did you want performance or sound? A lot of people run headers with a high flow cat and flowmaster or magnaflow(my preferred) muffler. They generally sound good and perform better than stock. Pipe size should probably be 2.25-2.5"max. B
  18. Good to know, thanks for the follow up!! B
  19. DOH!!! You didn't wash it off for him?? Gees man, you want to make things easier for your mechanic, NOT harder!! B
  20. Sorry, my home computer crashed last week and I've been too busy this last weekend to deal with it. 130k miles on it, new timing belt (@105K) and runs flawlessly. I don't think you want to deal with trying to get it to Colorado though. Look around locally for one that has a toasted auto tranny, crash/roll, etc. I see a lot of Pathys like that around here for cheap... B
  21. Precise1

    Zmax

    Err, link? What sort of product is it?? Female infection cream? Moose suppositories? Paperclips?? B
  22. I've known of asshats who would do that, break the window to get change for cigarettes or whatnot. No, not friends... Coins, tiny folding military can opener, matches and 2 M6x1.0 cap screws (Hint: for popping loose the rear brake drums). B
  23. Find a good donor. I have one in my driveway, but I don't know where you are located. I think you can use a 3.3 liter motor also (someone verify that please) B
  24. Yep and it was a hell of a lot of work. B
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