Precise1

What I have been saying for a while. I drove a considerably slower truck for 10 years, so a V6 Pathy is a step up. Regardless, it's not like they can't get out of their own way, they just won't win many races... If you want more power, upgrade intake, headers, exhaust for something like a 10-20% gain depending on what you do and call it good. If you really want to go nuts, cams, 3.3 heads, ecu map and rip out all the interior like a ricer. Hell, rip out the transfer case, front drive line, diff, CVs and that stupid second shifter also. It's all just dead weight anyway... B

Yep, pretty much!! If it strips, you can resize the hole slightly larger or just hammer it in and try again. You'll see... Just don't hammer it in too hard 'cause then you are spreading the stud with the tapered extractor and wedging the threads bound. It's kind of a feel thing, but not too delicate. Good luck, I'll keep an eye out for Q's. B

Yep, that's them. I find they are stronger, especially the smaller sizes and they are more likely to strip the hole/back out than dig in and snap like the left hand spiral type. Just my experience, but I believe it to be true... Let me know if you need some carbide left hand spade drills in specific diameters. B

Sheesh!! Yes, heat up the locktite first. This is the common method and I have done it many times. Between that and progressively drilling larger holes for easy outs, you'll get it out. Try using a square bolt extractor, not the spiral ones and left hand drills should always be used when possible... B

The idler bearing is going out on my old 95 and it makes a suprising amount of noise, not just from the bearing (the cause obviously) but from load/vibration being transmitted, which I'm guessing could transmit to the TB cover that you hear? My new 95 had original belts and had been parked for a while before I bought it so one developed a flat spot. I could hear a once per rev sound coming from it that irritated me to no end. I replaced all the belts and it runs much quieter; I have them on the loose side, sometimes one barks on start up. Try replacing the bearing and belts and see what you hear then... Regarding Colbywan's post, I have no idea, having never done that work on a Pathy before. I'm assuming you did it correctly... B

And there you have it... B

Oh, well then, by all means!!! I must have misunderstood... B

Do you mean easily?? Don't know... B

Yes, to a point... Don't be suprised if you have to cut open the floor from the top to get at the 'captive' nuts for 1 reason or another though. Hack the floor or spent $50... See the last post. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...25&hl=bolts B

Good job Adam, and good of you to help him out like that!! B

This. B

Not for long... B

Both. It's good that you found a problem and it's bad that you need to buy one. B

That same gauge may have been used in several different models so all they need is a different face plate for different red line limits. This saves $ and keeps the cost of the vehicle lower; I have no problem with this. Unlose one on ebay?? Valves in the head could affect things as they wear and don't seal as well, but mainly all the valves, diaphrams, on/around the motor. Sorry Bud, but I can't walk you through what/how to test on the internet about a system I have never worked on. B

Yes... I meant under the back seat, but peek under the carpets if you can. Ok, carfax and test drive... B

Always go by the redline on the tach, not highest reading the gauge goes to. Are you sure your dad didn't put a governor on your truck?? Yes, you set the base timing, but the ecu advances/retards it from there according to engine conditions. If you have poor sensors, vacuum leaks, clogged valves, etc this will make the ecu react to conditions that don't actually exist, hence spluttering, RPM flattening out, etc. That's what I mean when I said it isn't tuned very well. I don't know the TBI system well enough to recommend what to test/examine, but I believe there is a section in the manuals for that. B

That looks pretty good... I'd ask about frame/back seat rust, the last time the timing belt and clutch was changed and get a carfax report... B

My Pathy will rev to where ever I want, but the red line is around 6K, not 8k. Sounds like your timing is off (or something effecting the timing). That's a sure way to have a motor flatten out. Yes, it is the design/materials of the engine components, bore and stroke, valve train can be a limiting factor, etc. Simply said, you have an old truck that isn't tuned very well; stay away from redline. B

32 front, 30 rear is what I ran with 31' tires. Is it the best? I don't know, but it seemed to balance ride and handling. No odd wear issues. B

LMAO!! Now that was funny. I know you didn't mean it to be, but thanks!! B

Oh, well, in that case, you are almost done and haven't started the job yet... That's exactly what mine is doing. I'll replace it in spring when everything dries out though. I don't want a leak there and with my luck, it'll get worse quickly at the most inconvenient time... B

I just looked it up because when I rotated the tires today, I saw I have a leak on the passenger side. Pretty much what Alex said, the seal is pried out and tapped in, just a bit of work to get there... B

On a 97?? B

Clean the MAF (I'm pretty sure it is similar to the pre '96 models) and have the ECU codes read. OBD2 reader is required I believe but some auto parts stores do it for free (hoping you will buy there). I don't know where you are located but in NorCal, Pep Boys provide this service. I'd see if/what the car tells you the issue is before going much farther. Perhaps someone has had the same problem with the same model and will chime in... B

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