Precise1

As long as it is close (no major odd driving issues as you stated), you don't have to do it right away and it really shouldn't hurt anything other than perhaps a little odd tire wear. Obviously, the more you drive the more important it is to have it done sooner. If you are just waiting for a paycheck or two, I wouldn't be concerned. B

Look in our classified section. There are a few people parting out Pathys... B

If you are going to dump anything in the tank, use Lucas injector cleaner of something of similar nature. The best way to check for intake/vacuum leaks is to use WD-40 to spray on suspect locations. If the idle surges or changes, you have found a leak. B

My pleasure. Haynes manual says to bleed the clutch damper (the firewall mounted unit) before bleeding the slave cylinder on the tranny. Hope this fixes it... B

Rear end bushings might be questionable. B

Hey OSR, there are many posts about what is needed for rear shock travel. I'll try to remember to search for them tomorrow. I'm about to drop now... B

Do not pump, just press and release. Pumping can spread bubbles from what I understand. There is a second bleed point by the fire wall, passenger side 1/2 way down that would want attention also. I'll read/post the 'procedure' tomorrow morning; been up for 18 hours with out peace so I don't have it in me now... B

Inspect everything. I'm guessing the hubs need cleaning and the wheel bearings want fresh grease. I have no tips or tricks, it is really pretty straight forward... B

Why did you want to wait to install a tranny cooler? Yozsi seems to know what he is talking about. I'm not a tranny expert, but I think he only bothers to post when he is certain... Even if you have a total automagic failure, what is wrong with a manual swap? Too lazy to use the other foot?? B

This again?? Down shifting is far more applicable with MT than AT, period. Brakes stop you, period. If I couldn't avoid an emergency situation driving an AT by braking and steering, I doubt I would have time to 'down shift', much expect it to achieve much. The best I would hope from an AT is leave the OD off and let it do what it can, but I'd never expect to hook back up once it broke loose, etc. Why do I bother? B

Exactly... B

Don't feel bad, I made the same assumption once also until I took a look... B

As for the battery, it either won't hold a charge or you have developed a drain. Do you have a voltage gage? If not, use a volt meter at the battery to see what the voltage is before starting and while running. It could be that you don't have sufficient voltage with the motor running. If this would affect the A/T, I don't know. I'm new to them... B

Cool story and hell of a good price!! Congrats!! B

Either/or... I don't really name vehicles. I do also say "My truck". True enough. I'm not sure when SUV became the term. Does anyone know that the early Pathys were popularly classified as? I know body style was 'station wagon' officially, but that doesn't seem right... B

All the rear spring info you could ever want... Read this to know more than you ever wanted to about springs. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...;hl=lift+spring Now here is the real info. PM Slick with questions or search for pictures. HAD a tire carrier. took it off. used brand new JGC coils, got 3 & 3/4" of lift on Mini Me..... after 2 years they are still excellent, even after wheelin, and LOTS of miles. we did find for some reason my coils were a slightly different design to the average JGC coil..... that may have had something to do with why i got so much lift, when the average is 2-3" FYI, i paid $30 more for NEW coils than the JY's were askin. kragen P/N: PA 8360513 (FCS782V) i paid $70 for em This post has been edited by Slick: Jan 19 2008, 09:59 PM B

I know 88pathoffroad removed his and 'cleaned' it with a torch. Seems to me the soaking method should do something also. B

Yep, try the bench bleeding... If that doesn't improve thing, check out your vacuum booster unit and the line to it. I don't know the specific instructions but I can look it up for you. B

That one was manual tranny, what is your '93? X2(00) Fine. A 4000#, 4 wheel drive, 5.5 foot tall car then... B

15' rims are stock and with 3.75-4" backspacing, they won't rub on inside components. 10.5" wide is the minimum you will find with 33" rims (metric tire sizes alter that a bit, but I recommend 'standard' sizes) and no, they usually go by 15 or 16.5" rims. 8" wide will work fine and give your pathy a wider stance. I think you should decide on the rims first, then worry about the tires... Yes, a crow bar... Go to a tire site and read up on rims, back spacing and tire fitment. That should help with most of your questions... B

That's a No here... B (poll created. Vote even if you have posted already.)

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Ehem, "Hootus"... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18595 B

Well, that makes sense as HP became a (mid, late?)90's selling point and it took Nissan a while to compete. Even if it was to ferry the kids across town, you can't possibly do that without 250hp!! (I have a 78 VW Bug that scoots around town just fine with 58hp) The MPFI of '90+ are a bit more efficient than the TBI models, but not that much. The biggest factor is the lower gearing to offset significant weight and lesser HP. Staying below 3000 rpm helps with gas milage as a general rule, but it depends on many things. Tune ups, engine milage, drive train condition, tire size... I've gotten a solid 20+ MPG driving across California, climbing 7500 feet and returning, with a fully loaded truck (3 people and enough gear that I couldn't see out of the back) in a 95 with 31" tires. They aren't that bad if they are running well and there aren't many stop and starts. B

That's the oil pressure sender unit. Also notorious for leaking all over the starter. Try splicing the wire and see what happens. As for the starting issue, selenoid? Bad teeth? Check the starter bolts to make sure it is tight (watch out for the hot wire), then try whacking the selenoid a few times. This is what starts my spare pathy... B