Precise1

Regardless, that's pretty irresponsible, pathfinder or not. I'd argue that's not a proper method of disposing of a vehicle. Unfortunately, these sort of people not only abound, but thrive... B

Yes. You remove the top first because sometimes they can be siezed/corroded/rusted in place quite firmly and wouldn't it be a drag to drain the oil and then find out you can't get the fill plug out?? So, top first, then bottom to drain. The bottom should have a magnet in it so wipe off the swarf and put it back in. Some people don't but I use a single wrap of teflon tape to avoid siezing down the road and insure a good seal. The only things I do is only 1 wrap of tape and 1-2 threads below the thread lead so none of the tape will be poking into the diff case. Make sure to wrap the tape so the trailing end is away from the clockwise tightening motion or it will immediately pop off. Make sure to use the right oils and LSD compatible if you have LSD. There is a thread around on what is used where. I'll see if I can find it, but in the future, advanced search is your best friend... B Here is a thread. The only difference for an 89 that my manual states is GL4 75w-90 for the transfer case, not ATF. Lucas oil stabilizer is a good product for oil additives. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...8&hl=fluids

Been there. Hind sight, intent and desire collide and it makes a mess of things not to mention make it clear later. In the future, let me know if I can help. B

Well, that's not normal OSR. The inside of your intake is rusting/corroding?? Move out of there fast, imagine what it much be doing to your lungs!! B

^Pretty much. Be careful with pliers, etc as it can damage the hose but not be apparent. Save that for the last resort and even then put a rag in the jaws first. Elbow grease, prying and slitting. You'll probably want to cut off the last 1/2" or so anyway. B

Yep, they are wasting your time. 14mm tap? What thread pitch? I know I have some in my box at work. If I have the right one, I can mail it to the idiots... B

Yeah, I'll have to agree; that statement is relative to need and usage so it is too global to be of any value... B

That's what I wanted to point out... B

Agreed... B

I don't know the workings of the auto tranny, but in the years I've been here, I do not recall anyone describing a failure quite like you are. Yeah, you had better pull it. The good news is that you know how to work on it... B

I saw one just yesterday. Lifted, tires, exhaust and it was a nice change from the Expedition/Tahoes everyone seems to drive. It didn't seem to have any trouble towing the full sized sea ray ski boat behind it either. I have no idea about their off road ability, but it sounds like the wife may not care about that too much?? B

How nice!! A couple that meths together, felonies together. Lock these sheit bags up before they can further influence society... B

I agree, stay away from wheel spacers, just on principal. $240 for them? You can get new steel rims for $300-350. Yeah, Steevo is a great guy to deal with... B

Did you want to put this in the new pathy section? B

Simple Green, and an old broom. Soak, scrub, rinse... repeat. B

I think you are in for a suprise. A doubt you will find any tires in 235/75/15 for under $100, not to mention tax, mounting and balancing, and assuming you get 5 (matching spare) you will be lucky to get out the door for under $650. Your best bet is to look for local deals on used tires from private sources, I have seen some good ones. Oh, I don't the the BFG AT has that much rolling resistance. I got over 20 MPG fully loaded and climbing mountains... B

X2 The ECU adjusts it a bit on it's own regardless, IIRC. Sounds to me like you have something else that is causing the issue. Run the ECU codes yet? Want to bet it's knock sensor and something else?? B

For 2x the cost of a reliable Pathy. Yes, that is early for motor trouble for a Pathfinder. Perhaps it was abused by the PO?? How does the mechanic know it's the piston rings and not the valves? If the rest of the truck is in perfect condition, fix or swap the motor. I have a motor that runs perfectly, I'll sell it to you for $500... B

I doubt it'll hurt anything so I'd just put a few miles on it and see if it burns off or whatever. B

Piece of crap wedged somewhere? Sensor coated? Did you drive it for a ways or is this just idling in the driveway? B

The lift I just installed was 50mm and is just fine. The tallest 'standard' kit available here is 75mm so you aren't missing much. B

Holy bumper, Batman!! Did it come with a truck attached, or did you buy that later?? Most of us use 'kits' that are sold more or less complete with plastic spacers (high impact ABS or some such I'm guessing). Aluminum blocks should work just fine also. Would you like a link to the thread that covers most of the install?? B

Yep, like he asked. How many miles on the truck?? Look around in your area for any sort of donor vehicle also. You may be able to find a running motor to swap in. B

Good point... *cringe* B

Yeah, pretty much. I should be more clear though. The lifter only tapped at start up but pretty hard. I did an engine flush and replaced the oil filter with the cheapest I could find, put in the cheapest oil I could find, drove it for a week (100 miles), then replaced the oil with Castrol semi synthetic and a Bosch filter. A few weeks later I realized that I hadn't heard the tapping for a while... I'd definitely try flushing and replacing oil before tearing into the motor if it was me, but then I don't know how bad the lifter sounds... B