Precise1

Interesting that they come with a different mounting bar. Looks solid though, those should be bolt on/plug and play... B

That's a good deal, thanks for the tip!! We'll see how long it takes RC to catch on to the unusual # of wrecked Hardbodies... B

Like 87 said, and I'll add U joints. I got a weird shake before they made noise but they were definitely bad... B

Install a high flow CAT with 2.25-2.5" pipe and that's the best of all worlds. Don't be an ass and run without a CAT, they are there for a very important reason. Don't bother with the split exhaust. You won't gain anything real, it will just cost more, be harder to hang and more likely to be damaged on the trail. Yes, set up your exhaust now and just add headers when you can afford to. Please remember, you have a 3 liter V6 (185ish CI); it doesn't need or want a huge sewer pipe exhaust system... B

Good point... My old 95xe manual was just starting to crank very slowly/nothing just days before I parked it so I never tried to figure out the issue. Assumed it was the starter (battery was fine) but didn't care... B

Definitely sounds like wiring... Check the... Let me just link you to two similiar threads... B http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22821 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22835

That doesn't sound like bad gas, it is beginning to sound like a stuck/leaking injector or something. Water=white smoke, oil=blue and to rich=black Maybe you got some crap past the fuel filter and it's clogging an injector? B

Sounds like you are going to do basically what I would. Since it is intermittent, perhaps it is a sticking thermostat, just not all the time?? Can you see scale in the radiator? Definitely change the temp sending unit; until you are sure you are getting a good reading, you could be chasing ghosts... B

I replaced my FF, turned on the key for a few seconds, started and drove it... B

Yep, like 87 said... Check your battery/starter connections/wires first and then try the direct 'hotwire' like he recommended. Crap build up will do precisely what you describe, remember, it is right under the oil filter and gets soaked. Have you tried beating on the selenoid? I got a balky starter to work longer that way. If you remove it, you may want to clean it and retry it... Yes, 2 bolts and crativity. It's kinda tight down there. The starter comes straight out the front with a few twists and rotations. There is a write up on it somewhere. If you can't find it, let me know... B

I wouldn't have anyone work on your truck that you don't know, trust or have any recourse with. Like everyone said, the job isn't that hard but having some time , tools and a good place to work on it makes a lot of difference... The 90-93 recommended belt change interval is every 55k miles (or is it 60k) or every 4 years (which no one does). You have put 54k miles since the last belt, so either save some $ or set aside some time. This is one thing there is no benefit to postponing!! B

Did someone call me?? Info right here (BL thread in the 'How To' section...). http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 I never did source the metric bolts as I went with 1/2 inch in the rear. I recommend using grade 8 1/2-13 bolts for the 6 locations that do not have the captive nuts. Note the different lengths of bolt needed between 2$3" lifts. My work here is done, good luck... B

Check this out. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22821 6th topic below yours... B

What is the reason for such rediculous prices (unless the mean wage there is $150,000)? B

Glad it was just the alternator, but damn, those prices are insane!! I just dealt with something like that. The 'factory' quoted $600 for a power supply for a diamond turning machine. I spent 15 minutes on the internet and bought the identical item for $122. I can understand needing to make a profit, but that kind of mark up is absolutely immoral... B

Right on!! I'm glad you fixed it with minimal damage/problems. Feels good, don't it? B

I could be that the ignition contacts are dirty or worn. Also check your battery clamps, heavy gauge wires, connections at the starter, and ground point first. B

Nice!! Like 88 said, more pictures please!! B

*snort* No, that's Aaron... B

That's a pretty good price, how about you share the contact information and location of them? Yes on the flush and tranny cooler (make sure to clean the pan and screen)!! IIRC there is an access plate and/or the starter hole that is used to get to the TC bolts that has stumped a few people. I haven't done that work myself so I can't go into detail. A search should bring it up... B

$200 seems steep as I consider it a 1 hour job (with the appropriate tools of course), perhaps the mechanic is quoting a fan clutch purchased from the dealership? Consider this: at 150k miles, your truck has driven around the world 6 times!! If it wants the occasional belt/fan clutch replacement or wiring, that seems pretty damn reasonable to me... I recall someone mentioning a second wire to the starter before. I understand that sometimes replacing the single cable, connections and ground strap can achieve the same thing. B

Oil base lubricants tend to be thicker, attract dust and grit and can reduce down to a tacky goo over time all of which can make the tumblers, pins, wafers, springs, etc stick sometimes. It's not that oil will destroy a lock, it just isn't the ideal lubricant. At least, that is what I understand... B

So I took the ignition lock cylinder to a lock smith and paid $25 to a lock smith to butcher drilling out the pins, and then telling me it wasn't the tumblers but something with the key lock actuator mechanism. He suggested simply buying a new one as he couldn't be certain that the problem wouldn't happen again. Since it is the GF's car and she has the mechanical comprehension of a salamander, it needs to work all the time, period. What the lock smith did point out was that I could always swap the old tumblers into the new cylinder so one key fits all again. First, I soak the the old unit in solvent tomorrow, fiddle with with everything and see what I find. If I'm not certain of a fix, then I'll order a new cylinder that I won't mess with until after my vacation... Thanks much jadm4x4!! I know better than oiling up a lock or using graphite, but didn't know silicon spray was the stuff to use. Thankfully, I have a can. As I said above, I'll take a close look at it tomorrow. I am a machinist and am pretty good at figuring out mechanisms but there is nothing like experience. I'll certainly PM you with and questions!! B

Sorry, didn't read your signature and now I understand your question... Moog is pretty good and I have used some Beck/Arnley components without complaint. B

They are quite common around here. B