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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Asketh and receiveth... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...&hl=starter That should cover things. Sorry, I don't know the relay set up as I've never had to mess with it... B
  2. Yes, steel is tougher but plastics have come a long way in the last few decades, to the point that they are a viable alternative for many applications including skid plates. I recently installed a body lift and after messing with the plastic blocks, I didn't have any qualms about using them. This is coming from a machinist who is used to dealing with metal... B
  3. I guess so, but I don't have a Toyota. Is yours a manual shift? B
  4. Yeah, ok... Yes Dorman is an OE replacement, Believe it or not I picked up the manifold,gasket, and all other parts for replacement for $97.50 tax and shipping included. I thought about headers, however I've got two other cars to feed and my pathy is just my daily driver. I'll probably end up going with a magnaflow hi flow cat to a flowmaster 50 series muffler. I hear you about cost justification; no you couldn't get headers for less than 150% of that at best. There are many threads, some quite recent, about exhaust and one with a video clip of the sound of the FM-50 IIRC. I like the magnaflow muffler myself, but there are many good brands. You just have to research and pick... B
  5. If your truck is a manual, then the interlock switch is so you can start the motor without depressing the clutch. If it is an auto, then I have no clue... B
  6. Well, cat back systems do make a difference. I had a Magnaflow on my old 95 with the stock cat and exhaust manifolds. There are high flow cats that do a good job, and only a jerk removes the cat entirely. B
  7. Normally I'd shift my 95 manual (same motor/tranny) around 3k also, higher of course if I was trying to get speed, going up a hill, etc. Go out, pop the hood and look on the passenger fender wall. There will be a plate there and the last line will say HG43 Or HG46. This is your gearing, 4.3x or 4.6x. Tell us that and the size tires you are running and I'll tell you if the rpm @ 70 is too high. I'm going to guess that you have the 4.6 and 235/75/15 or 31" tires... B
  8. I do not know of Dorman, is this an OE type replacement? If so, I doubt there will be any gains. How much does it cost? It may be worth upgrading to headers... B
  9. About all you can ditch in the way of weight is an external tire carrier, the rear seats, carpet and padding. It really won't achieve much for mileage though. What would matter more is rolling resistance (wheel bearings in good shape, manual hubs, no brake drag, don't use the roof rack, light tires and rims of correct size) and driving mellow. General rule is accelerate evenly and don't exceed 3000 rpm cruising. If course, having the engine tuned perfectly matters and intake/exhaust upgrades. Most peoples WD21s are about 4000# curb weight and can allow another 1000-1500# payload although I've gone well past that!! In all reality 20+ mpg hwy is readily achievable but that's about as good as it gets. B
  10. West coast, Az, NM, the south into the Carolinas. The idea is to avoid the areas where it snows/they salt the roads and the very coast where salt air and beach driving occurs. You may have to travel a bit, but it is worth it in the end. Dowser flew from Canada to Florida, picked up exactly what he wanted, drove it back to the border and had the truck registered Canadian. B
  11. I have never heard of an LSD switch in a Pathy. The Limited Slip Diff works with clutch plates and is not something that can be turned off and on. Could you have misread it?? Can you get a photo of it? B
  12. LOL, no worries Spunky... I don't recall if JJ wrote an official write up, but I do remember him posting a picture somewhere when he relocated it to the tranny cross brace. It was pretty simple and straight forward with plenty of access room. It was on top of the brace with the oil filter pointing straight back IIRC. B
  13. LOL Actually, so would I if the red one was parted out and towed away already. No biggie, I see ones like that every month or two. That's what I was trying to point out... B
  14. Only do it if you don't like oil leaks. As for placement of the filter, have you considered the search function?? B
  15. The Haynes manual says every 30k miles or 2 years for a WD21 although time based seems silly unless it has been sitting most of the time? Like I told an in-law who was out checking/regapping his plugs again... As long as the gap is within range (they will burn larger) and your engine runs properly (good air/fuel mixture, no oil blow by, etc) they require no attention for quite a while. Here in NorCal with 2 year smog intervals, I'd check and maybe clean/replace the plugs, dizzy cap and rotor then. Good spark plugs are important and last a long time... B
  16. I guess I didn't say that right... Depends if you want an 'exact' replacement or newer and nicer. If you plan to off road it much or not, etc... You probably should look in the sunbelt areas; the selection is greater and most likely not rusted out. Fly out, buy and drive home... Here are some examples. Not the best I have seen, but still... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1248746369.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/ctd/1245760138.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1241976684.html This looks very promising!! http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1245384644.html You get the point... B
  17. PB blaster? (any good penetrant) I'm assuming the starter is bad so, have you tried 'ringing' it? Strike the base of the starter hard with something metal to shock and set up vibration; you may have to use a drift pin (long metal bar). Tap firmly against the sides at the end of the motor, walking it around a bit, using leverage to break it loose? A dead blow would work best for this. Good luck!! B
  18. Rusty Aluminum?? This I would like to see... They will still get as hot as the exhaust gasses+engine bay temp allow and as cold as ambient temp when you park it. I'm guessing zero difference. I think your butt dyno needs calibrating... B
  19. If they show dimensions, sure!! Otherwise, no thanks. Damn, I can't see paying $60 for the bushings yet. I'll see about reverse engineering first... Thanks though. B
  20. Why do you assume the newer are better? Yes, more luxurious and more power. As good off road? Probably not... I'm not sure what you want anymore... B
  21. Ahh, ok, thanks for outlining that. Now it makes sense, or doesn't make sense that is. Typical... B
  22. Is this only in your state?? I haven't hard about it... $3500 for a clunker?? DAMN!!! I got one they can have for that!!! It's sad how attached you can get to vehicles, eh? Emotions say not do it. Reality asks how many miles on the truck?? I bought a 95 with under 100k (no rust) for $3300 last year and see ones like it for sale all the time... You could take the $, do a road trip and have another one you will be able to drive for years. But, yeah, crushed, that's a harsh fate... B
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