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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. I wouldn't. Rent or borrow a tranny jack and have a helper, that is the best and most painless way to do it... B
  2. Download a FSM for a 1994 (pinned at the top of the Garage section) and follow their diagnostics. That's what I would do. Can't hurt to go to Alkorahil's web site (in the Classifieds/Services section) to see what the unit costs and depending on price, check around for people parting out cars... B
  3. About lunch?? Clean out the resistor pack behind the glove box before your truck catches on fire. Speaking of fire, if you develope an exhaust leak at the collector to mid pipe exhaust joint, it will usually burn through the floor board and set the padding and your right foot on fire. No, not much else to pay attention to, just carry marshmallows... B
  4. That bumper looks really good MrPlow!! Hey Matapalo, I hear your frustration. I was lucky enough to buy a used ARB from a gent in the east bay, but then I had to have it cut and extended to mount properly with my 2" body lift. I see that you are in Kentfield. Nice place!! I grew up in San Anselmo, but am in Santa Rosa now. I know of a good exhaust shop up here that I had extend the ARB bumper and will make a snorkel for me eventually. I won't say they are the best, but they do solid work and are reliable. Let me know if you have a hard time finding a local shop or you want to meet up for a beer or something. B
  5. I hope that was mounted, balanced and out the door; I paid $169 for the BFG MT KM2 without the other charges. B
  6. Yes, most people do this, although there are a few who claim not to. I haven't done the work myself yet so I don't know first hand... B
  7. Yes, Sir, that is correct. I use the engine block so you don't burn any paint. I have no idea if there is a fuel pump code, but it is a quick easy check... B
  8. I do have the RC UCAs, but they are not necessary if you only lift about 2" like I did. I didn't have aftermarket UCAs on the last pathy and drove it for years. If you wheel hard or go bigger than 31" tires, it is probably a good idea though.

    B

  9. Check for spark first, it is the easiest. Check for fuel. Check the ECU. That should give you a starting place. B
  10. I recently replaced the front brakes on the wife's 99 R50 with local Autozone Duralast semi-metalic IIRC due to the installed pads chirping from being rounded. It brakes well and progressively, all is good. I had to panic stop on the freeway last week (partially my fault) and hammered the brakes which responded perfectly, but it wasn't enough so I pressed harder and got a little more out of them. Hardly any chirping so either the ABS or I did a good job, but I was impressed by how fast I was able to stop. Seriously. The hubs were quite hot when I touched them 5 minutes later, but all that kinetic energy has to go somewhere... If I was in my WD21 with its old brakes, I would have hit the Jeep in front of me fairly hard. Next upgrade to the WD21, BRAKES!! Ok, the point is, organic work well, but burn easier (extended braking). Semi metalic are a good compromise for traffic driving and extended braking. Metalic and ceramic are more for towing, long hills and the track where the brakes get a lot of hard use and stay hot. Also, the harder the pad, the more rotor wear there is. I recommend semi-metalic pads, slide pin over haul, fluid flush and a good bleeding. If that doesn't work well enough, chime in again. Don't skimp on the brakes. B
  11. Well, look at your stuff when it comes in, not everyone gets garbage, some seems to be made when everyone is sober or whatever. Do consider returning anything that that seems to have issues, but I really hope you get good product. B
  12. I don't believe it is possible to store a code from another vehicle after being unplugged, but part of the checking for codes tells you how to clear them, sooo, clear them and try again. Sounds like you are onto something though... B
  13. Check it out, I hope yours is fine. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24170&st=0&gopid=494044entry494044 B
  14. Well, to wrap all of this up, some people are happy with their Calmini parts and some are not. Unfortunately, I fall into the not category. I never heard a word back from Justin R or an application engineer. I'm not willing to waste any more time with this after two email and a phone call and Calmini doesn't seem to be bothered that their product is defective. After all, it's been paid for, so who cares, right?? Over such a silly and simple little matter Calmini has lost a customer permanently, and I recommend to anyone considering their products to proceed cautiously. B
  15. When you are viewing a section that has threads in it, on the bottom there is a dark blue band which shows your viewing filter options. Make sure it is set for 'view all'. If it is set for view last 90 days, then yes, you won't see them... We don't delete threads, they are still there. B
  16. Thank you Andy, I'm pretty happy with it also.

    But to get the stance like that isn't too hard or expensive. A 2" body lift for under $200, $200 for 15x8" rims with 4" offset, and a 'poor mans' suspension lift with cranking the T-bars and installing some Jeep springs for $100 or less. So, for about $500 your pathy could sit the same and ...

  17. Precise1

    Timing Belt

    If he uses quality parts and warranties it, yes, that is about right. When I did mine, it was about $300 in parts but I replaced everything with Nissan parts... B
  18. Nice truck, but $15k?? What, did they use all Calmini parts or something?? Oh, wait... If I had the $, I'd buy it, put on slicks and run it at the drags. Calmini couldn't even make an idler arm brace right, I'm not impressed... B
  19. Agreed, some of the stock components have an amazing life span. My favorite story was the headlight on my old D720 that had a hole in it when I bought it. During winter it would fill up about 40% of the way with water, to the point that you could see the light beam changing from the water sloshing around in it. I drove that way for 10 years and it still worked when I sold it. B
  20. It's basically a baby cat. The point is that it gets hot and up to operating conditions much faster than the full sized cat so you reduce emmisions when the engine is cold or during warm up. Took me a while to get that answered... B
  21. I remember GrimGreg having some useful input, if it was roofing or just insulation, but I can not recall it ATM... B
  22. Well, that's one... Ok, thanks for chiming in, but you mean even the 94-95 have a speedo cable (even though it doesn't hook into the gage) and not just a sending unit?? Speedbuggy, you can download a 95 FSM in PDF form at the top of the Garage section, maybe that will help?? B
  23. There is someone I know of who dealt with this IIRC. Let me try to find it tonight if I ever get home from work... B
  24. I think so. I know UNCCP just towed from Ca to NC... B
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