Precise1

Every WD21 I have seen has the same skid plate so I assumed it is for all of them. Kyle, I have 2. One with the rubber side wings, one without. Buy one along with my tires... B

I have a set of 4 Michelin LTX in 235/75/15 (about 75% condition?) mounted and balanced on pathfinder chromies in my back yard that I want to sell. You would have to pay shipping though... Damn, son, you aren't going to get much for that. Talk to me if you are interested though. B

Hey Pete, did you see the post 10 before yours?? I'm going to share your wisdom, so I hope you don't mind. If you do, let me know and I'll erase all evidence... Hell, the Germans used water injection in WW2 for a temporary performance gain in their fighter planes!! Still, all it takes to kill a petrol motor is one good gulp. Years back, someone here hydrolocked and destroyed a motor by driving through a puddle too fast. On the road!! B

'Here' as in this search he posted, the one he did for the guy. Do try to keep up... B

What size?? B

Check out kiwipete's thread in the Members Rides section at the very bottom of the mail forum page also. I'll post some info from a private message when I get home later. I'm planning on relocating a few items under the hood on the drivers side and having a local exhaust shop bend a stainless steel snorkel for me. I'm going to use a prefiltered, water seperating, forward facing ram and on the other end I will probably have an air box from a different vehicle or a custom box. 3"pipe seems to be the ticket, but I need to check the MAF diameter to make sure that is the limiting diameter. B

They will help but IIRC it's only about 1/2 inch difference... B

Oooohhh... B

Damn, damn and damn it!! I never met him, but we had conversed enough to where he is not a stranger. While I'm not sure what exactly happened, I do know that it ended his significant potential and that saddens me greatly. My condolences to the family and friends that have to make peace with this tragedy. RIP Jared, you will be missed. B

I think I have the answer. There is a difference between the tie rod end tapers. One is larger and one is smaller, but not by much. It sounds like you are putting a smaller in the larger hole; that is why it seems to deep and you are stripping the threads. I think the large taper is 93+ so make sure that is what you are getting. When in doubt, measure the part you removed (top and bottom, remember, it is a taper) with calipers and compare it to the replacement part. If you don't have calipers, why the hell not?? You can get a set for $20 or less and they solve 100+ problems!! Possibly, but if it was that bad, it should be obvious, even before you replaced parts. B

You are welcome. Sorry, but I forgot to mention Alkorahil (Rob Lacy), a member here who runs an online parts store for a dealership. Great, experienced guy with great prices. Consider using him as a source in the future... B

You are welcome, let me know if you can't find it. B

Not that I know of. The electronic speedo/tack for the 94-95 are problematic. First, pull the cluster, check the connections and tighten the brass screws, they are ground points that can loosen. I have swapped out parts from 2 clusters to make one with all working parts (so far so good) and when I did that, the dead tach that I swapped out came back to life in my parts truck. Go figure... B

There was a recent thread about fixing that with bearing races. Just tossing that out there, and I don't know if that is the whole problem or a symptom, but that certainly is not right!! B

Exactly. It was so out of square (visibly out) that the bolt holes for the idler arm were impossible to line up. A call to Calmini got me the promise of a return call from an applications engineer. No return call. I'm not going to waste much time on a $20 item but I can say I no longer consider buying any Calmini product. If you fark up an idler arm brace so bad that it can't be mounted and it gets through inspection, powder coating and shipping and then you don't even follow up on a valid customer complaint, your product/service isn't worth sheit. B

Especially at a specific speed on the highway, it could be your CV joints are worn and binding slightly. Check the easy stuff first though. B

Either is fine. Zerks will keep most crap out, but you need to clean them well when you lube up. The flip side of replacing the bolts with zerks just to lube is how much crap and you getting in that way? Threads are hard to clean... B

Yeah, you would probably be better off (cheaper too) just buying exactly what you need for wire and putting the ends on yourself. B

LOL @ resting under the truck, I know exactly what you mean... Sounds like a good application for a ratcheting wrench. I bought a set a while back and don't use them much, but they were handy when I was installing the body lift. There were quite a few times I lay there, daydreaming to the sounds of click, turn, click, turn, click, turn, click click, turn... B

Pretty good deal, but Dude, it's chrome!! B

1)You have to pull the starter so at least flush it with brake cleaner (1-2 cans) until clean. 2)The upper tranny bolts aren't bad if you have a 18 or 24" extension, a universal joint and another 12 or 6" extension and a buddy to hold the socket in place from the top side... 3)You may have a hard time finding tall enough jack stands, you want to get the truck really high to drop the tranny. 4)Good time to drain and refill/overfill the tranny since the shift lever is removed. the TSB says 5.1 liters of GL4. I put in 5 qts gear oil and 1 qt of Lucas oil stabilizer. 5)Replace the throw out bearing, carrier and spring as well as the pressure plate. Do it all and do it once is my motto. I payed around $300 in parts for my truck. Talk to Alkorahil (Rob Lacy) for a good price on dealer parts. 6)Inspect the slave cylinder and line. That's all I can think of to add for now. B

Then those pistons are not going to work for you. First step over boring is usually .03" over, which neatly happens to be .75mm... Unless you really want to do this, why don't you just buy a good motor for $500?? Odds are you will spend more than the $700 otherwise... B

Take pictures and notes, please... B

Have you checked/fixed all the easy stuff like valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, etc? B

Mid '93 was the switch so if yours is the original motor with the original sprockets (it should be) then you have the round tooth sprocket/belt. Change interval is every 105k miles/4 years. B