Precise1

For a nice balance of mileage and power, install a cone air filter, cat back exhaust system and run 31" tires. My 95 manual tranny Pathy got 20-22mpg on the highway @65-70 mph

Thanks for the update, I had no idea so I didn't post. Glad you got it fixed relatively easily. B

The item searched for has to be more than 3 letters which is real handy when searching for MSD, UCA, JGC, etc... B

Talk to the guy, see if it is for sale, then look at it close up, then try to start it, etc. Then worry about price... B

Check all the main electrical connections first (battery, ground, alternator). Have the battery load tested, then have the alt tested. My bet is that your alt is going out, but a failing battery could be the cause of that. B

k9sar had a similar problem... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21268&view=&hl=noise&fromsearch=1 B

That tool box costs more than most peoples trucks here, not to mention what is in it... B

Congrats, the swap out won't be too hard. Make sure to grab every sensor and relay before you get rid of the carcass though. Door handles are easy once you have pulled the door panel. Be careful with the door panels, they are easy to damage. Use a long flat bar to put leverage at the plastic clip bases and you should be alright. B

Dripp or grind it out, it's not impossible or expensive, just tedius. Don't rush you you'll be fine... B

This. I have known of a few people who have gotten lucky and did no real damage so it is not impossible. My view is that you will have to fix the tensioner/replace the belt anyway so do that, just put on the lower cover and do a compression check. If you have to pull the heads you haven't wasted much time at all. I know of a few people who have had the same failure; k9sar and someone else. It isn't normal and the only reasons I can think of is over torque of the stud, over tensioning the belt and/or weak studs. HEY!! Does anyone know if the tensioner stud is the same as the exhaust manifold studs?? That would explain a lot... B

Nice, that's really good news!! I couldn't imagine having a vehicle that I couldn't get parts for. That would be really irritating. B

Dust the oil as much as you can (within reason) with some talcum powder, start the motor, let it warm up, shut it off and look again. Any leaks will be painfully evident. B

I had just purchased a set of the Mile Marker manual hubs for a 99 R50 from 4 Wheel Parts for $89 out the door. Definitely not as good quality as the Warm Premium, but at 1/2 the price, they are a nice compromise... B

This, then replace the bolts with new ones, one at a time. Keeping the bolts in will help keep things aligned. As for how to do this... Ford Exploder boat anchor, straps and a come-along. When I did my body lift, it shifted a little so I needed some help aligning it. I was alone, so this is what I came up with. Thanks neighbor's Ford!! B

I'm going to pin this in the Z24 motor section. Thanks for the update!! I owned a Z24 years ago, now you have me curious. I never thought I had a problem... B

I'll bet you'll have excellent downward articulation!! B

I have had similar experiences and completely agree. B

FYI The recommended timing belt change interval is 160,000km or 4 years. Last year I changed the belt on my 95 with 157,000km on it, but 14 years on the belt. I was paranoid about the age... The belt actually looked quite good but this a California car (temperate clime, no road salt, etc). Next time would I stretch it out?? No, I'd change the damn thing and not worry about it for another 160,000 km... Also, there was one member who replaced the timing belt and didn't change everything. 1 week later the coolant bypass hose broke and it all came apart again and installed a new belt (coolant is bad for the rubber). Same scenario, different person and the thermostat. Another person put off changing their belt for a few weekends. It broke and they trashed their top end. These are the exceptions, not the rules. B

Just a general FYI... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20182&st=0&p=346830&hl=Trim&fromsearch=1entry346830 B

I know someone had asked questions about this but I'm not certain if it was ever done. I believe the general consensus was not worth the effort, and why?? That said, I think it would be fairly easy other than the cable routing. B

How many miles on it is some info. When was the TB last changed is very important!! My guess is that it is the idler bearing, they can sound like hell when they fail. I've never heard of a water pump failing audibly so I doubt that is it. Either remove the idler pulley and see if it still does that or use a mechanics stethescope ($10 at HF, well worth it!!) or use a long extension or screw driver and cup your hand over the end to pin point the source. Get a picture of the chick, and if you don't buy it, direct her here for 'help'... B

Funny, it looks like your TBI is owning you... B

Check the function of all the smog valves/systems and vacuum lines/diaphrams. Scaramoche, how much did you fail by? Can you post a copy of the smog report?? Damn Tbi's... B

Not if you are still driving it. Your story seems odd, but if it still works and it isn't howling, there is no way something major let loose. Some fuzz and bits is normal, I can't remember the last time I changed a diff fluid and didn't see something significant. Remember, it is the work horse of the drive line. It takes input and turns it 90 degrees both directions and is often ignored in maintenance. B

Firmly lodged in the Garage/How To section... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7466 Please take this in the best way possible. Take an evening and just poke around and read what is pinned and obviously displayed. It probably will not answer all of your questions, but some and it will teach you things you have not even thought of. Which means even more questions and that is what we are about here... B