Precise1

Ok, go into the Garage section and pinned at the top is a thread that has a link to a free Factory Service Manual for your year. There is your vacuum diagram and much more... ALso, check to see if you have any vacuum leaks. Visual first and then spray any suspected areas with a flammable aerosol (wd-40, carb cleaner, etc) with the truck running. If the idle increases, you have an intake vacuum leak. Please use common sense, safety glasses, etc... B

TSB stands for Technical Service Bulletin and this is in the TSB section at the top of the Garage section. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621 Liters to quarts and pints, you mean?? 2 pints=1quart while 1 quart=.95 liters as Simon pointed out. Since you fill the drive train until it runs out of the fill hole, you really just have to make sure you have enough. If you are just shy of what you need and don't want to buy another quart, top it off with Lucal Oil Stabilizer, it will only do good thing... B

Alternators barely charge at idle, and if it is the original, it probably is not as effecient as when it was new. If it was just a flicker once at idle, I honestly wouldn't worry about it. It can't hurt to pay attention to make sure the light doesn't come on and stay on or if you seem to have a weak battery when it is new, these usually indicate a dying/dead alternator. At this point, I wouldn't even have it checked as I don't think you have a problem. Of course, if you need chores for the boyfriend, then have him remove it... B

Relax Kyle... Dowser is helpful, and after you have been around for a while and you hear the same question 100 times, you will point people to the search function too. If you can think of it, it has already been discussed, trust me. Let it go, eh? B

Agreed, it sounds lifter related, that is usually the tap upon start up. Why it died, I have no idea. I recommend doing a compression test on all cylinders to get a baseline. B

Honestly, you do not need them, but if your life is incomplete without them, I have a set in my garage that I'll happily sell to you... B

First, check the electrical connections... Does it flicker at all speeds/rpm?? It is unlikely that the belt is so over tightened as to cause the alternator to fail; usually the failure mode is the bearings, not the charging. How old is the alternator?? B

I have only towed a few times with the Pathy so I don't have much input other than to show the other side of the arguement. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23849&view=findpost&p=482234 B

*for Nunya*

I don't know if there is a write up per se, but it has been discussed often. I did mine with a Haynes manual just fine but go to the Garage section and down load the FSM pinned at the top for a 1994, it will work fine for you. The job is pretty straight forward, just a lot of work. I'll try to find some of the threads later when I get home if I remember... B

The 2 door are cooler looking with the triangle window (not that the 4 doors look bad) and are slightly lighter IIRC. In my view, these are the only benefits. A 4 door (94-95) has easy access to the back, a newer dash, MPFI and 105k timing belt change intervals plus hopefully, less mileage. The TBI does not burn as efficiently as the MPFI and the system has parts that rust, rot or burn off of it. a TBI would be more likely to cause grief come smog time. If you really want a 2 door, get that MPFI unit!! That said, if you get any bad feelings about a deal, walk away. WD21s are a dime a dozen in Cali as I'm sure you have noticed. I'm glad you are thinking of getting a WD21 for wheeling, I'm sure you will love it. B

I'm not much help, but look in the for sale section, there are often people selling heads and such. Perhaps you can get one with valves and cams from a running motor. That would make the repair fairly easy. Also, look in the New Member section, there is a new member from Portugal who just joined. He is on his third pathy and seems to be experienced. Perhaps he knows of a place to get parts... B

He doesn't, they are the only think keeping it from becoming a taco... B

Hah!! Nice, thanks for the explanation. It is so obvious, I can see it being overlooked... B

Nice job!! I like restoring old stuff when possible myself... B

That doesn't apply to Pathfinder with solid axles in the rear; no adjustment. B

Unless you are unusually strong, don't bother with removing the power steering. You can get more power to offset the little lost by adding modifications. You don't use much anyway. A few HP?? B

Oh, 1994 is the first year that electronic versions were available, so sorry about that. Another good reason to buy 94-95s... The main changes for 94-95 were the dash and some minor interior/bumper trim. Most of the rest is identical so those of you with 4 doors and V6 MPFI from 1990 to 1993 can down load the manual and use it for the vast majority of your Pathfinder needs. B

How is this, Bud?? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26616&st=0 B

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/ Posted courtesty of BenStoked AND Go to the following link and download the CARPDFNSNPATH95.rar http://rapidshare.co...DFNSNPATH95.rar After download, use the following password to access the RAR file: password: carpdf.net Good luck.....!!! For more information about how I got this Manual. http://carpdf.net/19...vice-manual.htm Posted courtesy of Blackfuse. And one more... http://www.scribd.com/search?cat=redesign&q=nissan+pathfinder&x=40&y=11 This one courtesy of snoob. Thank you gentlemen. Lets keep posting in this thread limited to refreshing, updating and supplying links. Thanks, The Mod Team (F yeah!!) B And the addition of the 1995 supplement service manual, complete with electrical foldouts, courtesy of Adamzan! https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/126488129/Supplement.zip

Thanks for posting that and I will pin it. I have to point out that 4 threads above this one is an Owners Manual thread that contains this http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5410&view=findpost&p=457867 I think I'll make it more visible... B

Hey, good idea!! Do they nest that well?? B

In order of what to inspect/test/replace as I know it: 1) EGR valve 2) O2 sensor 3) Clean engine oil 4) air filter 5) Ignition (hot spart, ie dizzy cap, rotor, plugs, wires if old) Your truck is running rich, but not by too much so the EGR alone may be the culprit if it is not functioning properly/clogged. 3-5 are more for when everything else has been checked/fixed/replaced and you are out by a little bit. Good luck, but it shouldn't be a big problem. B Sorry, I just saw that the NOx is through the roof!! I'm not sure what the fix for that is... Does the truck run hot??

Damn!!! I like that!! B

Well, no. I will say that no Nissan truck/SUV I have ever owned had an issue with overheating so the stock system should work if properly relocated. Depending on the angle, I can see various issues but if you went with a shallow angle, as high up as possible with e-fans and the hood face vent cowls removed, it might work fine... B