Precise1

How is that bursting any bubbles, Bud?? AC and Calmini make idler arm braces and pan hard rod drop brackets, yet some people make their own. Same with sliders, bumpers, skid plates; damn near every part of the truck. Safari makes a snorkel for the Pathfinder, but I'm going to design my own. Why did you screw around with custom cam grinds when there are several companies you could have just bought a proven product from?? B

Damn it, I took all the measurements yesterday (except two that I need my telescoping gauges for) with pictures included, but forgot the notebook this morning when the wife distracted me. I'll post first thing when I get home. I'm trying to make this thread have all the pertinent information so we can pin it and not revisit this again in 6 months... B

If you can get them cheap, do it and modify the mounts like Nunya mumbled. B

Check in the Classifieds section here, there are several people parting out trucks and often people going to junkyards offering to get parts for people. Also post in the Parts Wanted section for the parts you want... B

Sooo, like I said, Lockrite locker.... B

Buy some flares from someone, flaps and all (there are minor differences) parting out a truck and tint the rear 3 windows. Easy to do, cheap and looks good. Keep up the good work Bud, it's fun and soon you have an individual rig... B

They get kicked/knocked off all the time. B

I bought my first pathy with 110k on it. On an up hill freeway on ramp it grabbed good in first, second, third, then slipped a bit in 4th (all high rpm shifts). That told me there was an issue. I pulled the tranny and the pressure plate was tired so it was only pushing against the outer 1/2 of the clutch disk so it had uneven wear from center to edge. At the out side edge it was down to the rivets. Basically, you can pull the tranny and replace everything in the bellhousing (including resurfaced flywheel) for about 300-$350 (EOM parts are fine, talk to Alkorahil for great prices) or someone else said you can pull the tranny back just far enough to change out the pressure plate and flywheel (maybe $150) but you risk throw out bearing/rear mail seal issues before the clutch needs replacing. Either way, I HIGHLY recommend using a tranny jack. B

And what is the torque for the manifolds?? 14 ft/lbs IIRC?? That is too much torque for M8 bolts?? 14 ft/lbs on a stud is different than 14 ft/lbs on a bolt? I'm not following you... B

The majority of people agree but many people also run the Pace Makers without complaints other than the paint burning off in 7 minutes... B

I can not answer you, not having done the job. I do recall reading up on this recently for the wife's 99. Look in the 1996-2004 R50 section, it might be pinned or search. Let me know if you can't find it... B

Doug Thorley, 50 state legal, Nickel-Chrome plated. $400. Highly recommended... B

Ok, I understand you have limited options. Sounds like you don't have much choice right now, and fixing this one enough to be useable may give you the opportunity to sell it later. Like you said, shocks can wait. Like you said, BJs are not critical. Frame, you think you can handle and have some of the stuff you need. Start sourcing the other stuff. Hell, go to welding shops and beg for scraps if you have to. Exhaust: I happen to have virtually an entire stock exhaust system (minus cat) sitting here in excellent condition, and some 12.9 grade bolts for the manifolds as well. I'd like something for the parts but nothing rediculous. Want a photo of it all and talk about it?? Pm me... B

Let me just repeat something I have said before. I highly recommend anyone who does a fair amount of mechanical work to buy some economy 6" dial calipers. They are accurate to +/-.002" or so, cost around $20, will be indispensable once you start using them and will last for many years as long as you don't drop them or use them to open beer bottles. I have 7 pairs of calipers... I can check the one off of the parts pathy tomorrow after work for you. I just finished 11 hours straight work and refuse to pick up another tool today. Sorry. B

You can use the internet on 'mobile devices'?? WHOA!! B

I can't tell you exactly what the problem is other than gears or bearings in your tranny. The way I know this is that 4th gear is essentially direct drive, 1:1 input to output so it doesn't use all of the gear pack. I think this also rules out your input/output shafts as those would make noise regardless of gear. Greardless, a rebuild is not terribly expensive, especially if you remove the tranny for them. Why is everyone who needs parts so far away!! I have a MT in my parts truck with 132k miles on it. Works perfectly with all new clutch parts 25k miles ago... *grumbles* B Hey, I ammended the title to include the manual tranny issues. This is just to help people in the future who may search for this information.

Lockrite is probably the best bang for buck, BUT you need an open diff to install it in. What you CAN do is repack the LSD to be UBER stiff. It was just recently discussed so do a quick search, otherwise let me know if you can't find it. Sorry, but I'm off to bed now... B

I saved the old cat/precat and would just have to bolt it on if the high flow cat doesn't pass, BUT the Magnaflow unit I got is CARB certified for installation in California so I have to imagine it will pass. B

If you mean changing the pads, I believe you can just remove the rear bolt and pivot the caliper up and forward, off of the rotor. Put a line on the bleeding nipple and into a container, loosen the nipple and compress the piston back into the caliper. Shut the nipple, change the pads, reposition the caliper, replace the bolt. Do the same on the other side and then bleed the front brakes. *note* You may have to remove the caliper entirely, not just pivot it. I work on too many different vehicles to remember. As for the tranny, when was the last time the fluid was changed? Redline MT-90 is highly recommended and be sure to read the TSB pinned in the top of the Garage section. It basically says to 'overfill' the tranny to 5.1 quater (liters) for proper lubrication. B

I'm going with JamesRich. It's easy to do so don't put it off. B

The mount is just a sheet metal bracket with different length legs on each side, the twist is that the plastic, cosmetic bottom tray has a taper to it also to this is not so easily modified. I'll be working it out, but I have far more pressing things to deal with first... B

Hmm... Minor detail... *looks at clino* *looks at dash* *growls* B

Well, if the $ doesn't really matter, buy the X!! That said, I found a 99 R50 with 150k miles, clean and loaded for $4k and put $1k into it. The wife commutes 60 miles a day and this is her winter and our trip vehicle of choice. Maybe if you are a little patient, you can find a similar deal... Then there is the option of buying a 3.3l motor and putting it into the Pathy with headers, good exhaust and intake and drive it like it is supposed to be driven... That would actually be the cheapest. B

I'll look in the morning and tell you. B

Unbolt the bottom support bracket on the engine side allowing the box to sag on that side and tilt the entire unit. It doesn't make it perfect, but it helps a lot... B