Precise1

The only way I was ever able to properly bleed the ABS unit was to gravity bleed it (fill up the MC reservoir, attach a line to the nipple, break it loose 1/4 turn, walk away for 15 minutes, come back, shut off nipple, refill the MC Res and drive off. Thanks Simon for that tip. B

Looks good!! What do you need the bearing puller, press, thrust nut tool for?? The front bearings?? If so, no. Buy the dead blow, a 1/2 inch 1' aluminum rod and a brass round the diameter of the bearing race. Tap out the old races with the aluminum rod, pound the new ones in with the brass round and tighten the nut with a punch... B

Holy Crap!! That holds the record AFAIK, congrats!! Good idea with changing the timing belt, I know the recommended life span of the 94-95 models is 105k miles and 4 years, and pre 94 is 60,000 miles and I would assume the same age. I changed the timing belt on my 95 for the first time in 2009 with 97,000 miles for the same reason. B

Congrats Bud!! Thanks for being part of this great community!! Here's to all the members and volunteers who make NPORA such a great place... B

I highly recommend an automatic centerpunch for making clocking/alignment marks. I've wiped/scraped off marker and paint before. It's easy to do, especially if you are fighting with a component. You get it out, go to reassemble, look around for the mark and it usually starts like this... "Awww Sheit!!!" B

Can't hurt to check the EGR. I'm thinking it could be something with the cold idle valve. I believe that is what it is called on the TBI systems but we have something else. Sorry, I can't recall right now, to tired. I'll think about it... Mine does run fine fo about 20 seconds, then drop and stumble for another 10-15 seconds and then the idle picks back up and smooths out. I'm not sure of the reason and haven't messes with it as it is not an issue. B

Yes, the same happened to a member in Canada ayear or two ago. Went from fine to nothing, but he really should run the diagnostics to be sure. I think he would have seen a major leak... B

Maybe because then you aren't surrounded by Rednecks?? B

I have never done the work, but I seem to remember someone talking about spring clips?? Also, just Google "npora" and you are here... B

Yeah, I'm leaning towards the injector. When I trouble shoot after work again, I'll check the resistance (or whatever) both hot and cold, but that wouldn't show a mechanical clog, just an electrical failure. It is a bit irritating. Either work right or break already!! B

Wow. It isn't necessarily the stock tranny cooler because most people report symptoms like missing gears first, although it may be. I don't know the auto trannys well but go to the Garage section and download the Factory Service Manual pinned towards the top. There is an entire diagnostic section that must cover things like 'does nothing at all'. B

X2 on water getting somewhere you don't want it. As long as the CEL isn't blinking (blinking means it can affect other emmisions components) dry out any obvious puddles, remove the dizzy cap and give it and the rotor a shot of WD-40, reinstall and let it idle until warm, then shut it off and let it self dry. B

It's only $15 and you can always resell it. BUT why don't you get a picture of it and compare it to what you have. This could make things very clear immediately... B

The answer is yes, you probably could. For most of us it isn't worth the trouble to duplicate since he has all the welding fixtures set up and components. Here, read up on it... Grassroots4x4 centerlinks made by Hoohaa B

I'm not sure you want to follow in my footsteps with that. I wired the ilumination bulb directly off of the dimmer switch wire that changed voltage when the switch was rotated, and the other to ground. Unfortunately, I had the switch removed and didn't realize that the voltage was highest (on the wire I used) when the the switch was in off position. End effect was that the ilumination light for the tranny temp gauge was backwards from all the other lit instruments. I didn't deal with it for a while, and when I was going to fix it, the bulb was burnt out so i said fark it. Maybe some day when I've got nothing more important to do... B

ARB discontinued their bumper for the pathfinder, but they still make it for the Hardbody and that will fit with a 2" body lift. They are a little pricey but they are well made and being shipped from Australia, it is somewhat understandable. See below for photo. B

LOL Ok, but we are really talking about owning a clinometer here... B

Well, it is not random, it is specifically cyl #1 but yes, that's what crossed my mind when i bought the injector cleaner even before Derek suggested I try that. No dice yet, and the 'only when hot' scenario has me wondering as well. Thanks though!! I should probably change the fuel filter, seeing as it probably has never been done either... B

I never checked mine for temp, but it shouldn't be hot. That is not supposed to be a heavy draw item... B

Ok, bought it 6 months ago. I replaced the plugs with NGK platinum, it ran fine for months with several 400 mile trips. A month ago with me driving it on a 7 mile commute, it would start to stumble only after I stopped at a store and restarted it warm. It runs fine from cold until you shut off and restart. *I ignored it at first but when it became worse I replaced D cap/rotor/wires. No change. *Put in Techron injector cleaner with a low tank and 10 gallons of Chevron gas. Have only burned a couple of gallons, no change. *I determined it was not the spark plug by swapping #1 & 3 and pulling plug wires while it ran, all pointing to the #1 cylinder not the plug. *#1 (and all others) have spark in the wire as tested with timing light today. *Injectors 1 & 3 pass the resistance test (8 or 10-15 ohms IIRC) *Timing is 12-13 BTDC and would be higher without the misfire. 2 weeks ago the neighbor plugged in his OBD2 scanner and gave me a P0301 code. Today I bought my own reader (why do I cheap out, I should have spent a little more for a better unit) and it showed P0301 #1 cyl misfire, P059 O2 circuit slow response, Bank #2 Sensor #2, P0158 O2 sensor circuit high voltage Bank #2 Sensor #2 and P0301 #1 cyl misfire. I erased the codes, warmed up the motor, shut it off, restarted, for CEL and read the codes for two counts of P0301 #1 cyl misfire Ok, I see I missed something in the FSM when I was trying to find the injector test specs so I'm going to go check the air intake, EGR and unplug injectors. Anyone have any ideas, please let me know because I'm not getting any closer yet... B

No, feel free to to remove it to get access, just be gentle with the hoses, they are old... The fix is to remove the old bolt (with pliers if need be) and put in another one that doesn't have a mangled head. B

You may have a leak. Look for the obvious, a leak. Either dripping or just freshly wet dust near the seals. Other than that, you may want to bleed the clutch system, it is not hard at all and may release some trapped air and firm up the pedal. Remember though, over this time your pressure plate has relaxed and the clutch has worn so you cant expect a brand new crisp feel anymore. B

It's the wife's SUV, Right?? Right?? Right!! Just remember that and we'll have no problems... Congrats on finding a fair deal on what you needed. Not every one of my vehicles have a Nissan badge either. B

Are you sure the wiring to the bulb is ok or that the bulb isn't burnt out?? Do you even have a bulb there??? You get it. It can't hurt to check and 55 is good to see, most of the time... B

And that is what it is all about... B