Precise1

They use (but do not come with) bolts. For the roof rack, I'm guessing 1/4-20 or M6 would be appropriate. I haven't doon a lot of riveting, but no, I wouldn't have used them. Too small in diameter as you noted (lateral shifting can fatigue them) and not removable... B

Are you sure it isn't the tranny (or maybe motor) mount?? That said, I've never pulled a R-50 tranny and having no idea what the cause is, I'm not going to guess. FYI, I have pulled a WD21 tranny in the privacy of a friends garage and rented the tranny jack. B

Ok, fair enough, just thought I'd mention it... Ok, in that case drain the tranny oil and fill it up with 5.1 liters of Redline MT-90. This might help some and will definitely help it last as long as possible... B

Quite frankly, I think you got lucky that it is back and not much worse for wear. Make a list of what parts you need and post it... B

Hey Rod, there are several threads on this although I do not recall if any are pinned. Yep, here is one that is pinned in the Garage/How To section. I searched for "CV shaft". http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=255&st=0 B

It was late and I blame the beer... Damn Derek, those look really good!! How much were they?? B

Yep, that's what I have, somewhere... I have the 1/4-20 ones that are vinyl coated for better sealing. If you go metric, get the M6. FYI, I bought mine at Napa Auto Parts, and I'm sure any local sheet metal place or good hardware store will stock them also... B

No, we are talking about riveting in a threaded insert or using a jacknut (like an expanding drywall anchor but for sheet metal, mine are 1/4-20). Both are far stronger and/or cover more surface area to spread the load than a sheet metal screw and are 'blind hole' applications so no real need to pull the headliner. Sheet metal screws would work ok if the metal was 2-4 times thicker IMO, but the roof is really thin, I bet I could pull a sheet metal screw out by hand. Remember the wind resistance factor of a roof rack also. Say Kyly straps a matress to the roof rack, jumps on the freeway for 2 miles, the wind catches the front end and lifts it into a sail (we have all seen this, I think), I could see sheet metal screws pulling out pretty quick. I may be wrong, but I prefer to err to the side of safety. B

There is this amazing new thing called... GOOGLE!! Seriously Kyle, you are able to figure this out. Don't ask without thinking or trying, ask after you have thought/tried. This basic principle will serve you well in life... B

Close enough... Here are 10.5x31" tires on 15x8" rims with 4" BS. (look down) B

I don't know either, both my pathys are bald. Yes, removing the headliner is best but if you are careful/gamble a bit, not necessary at all. Post 2 & 6 talk about mounting options. B

Don't mess with GPS, do the math... Revs per Mile: 720.4 Revs per Mile: 671.6 Sorry, it's generally closer to 7%. B

Ahh, ok, I get it. There are many types as Alkorahil said, and for this application even the spray stuff can work but would be messy and hard not to broadcast. As for RTV, it is a silicone sealant, Permatex is a good, common brand. For your application, almost any would work but for an unnoticable install, go with the red... As a machinist, I tend to do things overkill, but I don't think I would use self tapping sheet metal screws for a roof rack. That metal is awful thin and I'd hate to rip it off on the freeway with a load!! B

You don't even have 150k miles on it, it's not even 1/2 used!! As long as the rust isn't bad or killing the frame, this is what I recommend. 1)Remove the tranny yourself. Fair amount of work but not that hard, especially with qualified help, like some of the friends who drive it also... 2)Have a shop 'rebuild' it (new synchros, bearings, seals, etc). Shouldn't cost more than $800CAN max. 3)Buy all new clutch parts and install, $500CAN max. 4)Reinstall tranny with help from said friends. You should be good to go for another 100k miles easy for $1,300CAN so you can save for the eventual replacement. Don't bother with Xterras, they are for traitors. B

I'm not sure exactly what yo are asking... Use a pop rivet gun to install threaded inserts or buy jacknuts. Use a step drill to cut the hole in the sheet metal and seal it with a little RTV. B

The main bolts for the bumper are accessed from the wheel wells, on top of the front frame horns. 2 or 3 bolts per side IIRC 14MM (or 13) m8X1.25 thread, use a socket with extensions, no big deal. the lights have electrical connectors that can be stubborn, undo them with the bumper loose but still attached by the guy with the strongest hands. The lights on mine were philip head but it may not have been stock. B

LOL As for the ABS light, the only way several of us have gotten it to turn off is to bleed the ABS module that is on the mid/rear passenger frame rail. Some say bleed it before the rear brakes, some say after, I don't know how much of a difference it makes, but I had to gravity bleed it, which is attaching a line and letting it drip for a few minutes... B

Hey, at least they are trying to find the assholes who stole it!! All too many times they don't even bother... Hopefully it isn't too thrashed, but even if you need parts, etc I'm sure a lot of people here will help you out. B

*snort* It is 8% difference, so add 8. B

HEY!! What's with the logic?? B

185/50/14 and you will have no rubbing issues and a crawling 4lo... B

.58% deviation is nothing, most tires deviate more than that just by different manufacturers. Tire wear over the life of the tire is far more than that. The odometers on the vehicles aren't even that accurate. B

Yeah, but I wanted to handle the line and didn't know how much the harsher agents would affect the rubber long term so I went with the tar/bug/sticker remover... http://www.amazon.com/AO-Safety-97490-Vision-Glasses/dp/B000S97ZW4 I highly recommend them!! B

Yes, it is known, but thanks for the heads up. They still make them for the D21 (hardbody pickup) but they are slightly taller so it can be cut down or you can install a 1-2"body lift and it should fit well... B

I believe that is usually a charging warning signal. Do me a favor and seriously check all your battery terminal connections, the ground connections to the chassis and the motor. All the alternator in the world doesn't mean a thing if there is no connection. B