Precise1

Here is a bit of fuel injector 101 I went through with my wife's 99 R50. The majority of the info pertains to the WD21s also. Were the WD21 injectors color coded also?? It is highly advised to replace the O rings whenever installing an injector. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27522&st=0&p=519461&hl=injector&fromsearch=1entry519461 B

Sounds like it is fixed, but whatever the noise, I doubt it came from the roof unless they left one of their mechanics tied up there... Welcome Billy (or Jack), it sounds like you have a well serviced/low mileage Pathy. Mine is low mileage, but I can't attest to what the POs have done so I've tried to maintain everything... Please, post some picts!! B

We usually just duct tape them to the roof, then down along the door jamb... Seriously though, there are a few approaches, most of which are listed in existing threads about mounting roof racks/baskets and... lights. B

A long shot, but what about the fuel filter?? Has it ever been changed? B

^ Exactly. Also, check for EGR valve function, vacuum leaks, clean the MAF, etc. All free and easy, eliminating possible problems. B

As long as you keep the Pathy(s) I see no foul here; you are simply expanding the stables... Traitor is when you dump your Pathfinder rather than work on it and buy a poser Xterra or something. B

Depends exactly how you do it. You can always brace it as Dowser suggests, but if you already dropped the t bars, you may as well lower the tranny back and down if you need the room. Be careful though, these trannys are heavy and have a transfer case on one side that makes the weight lopsided. B

Completely forgot about it. I'll be under the truck right after work so I'll check then. No, really... B

You have done this on a WD21?? Without cutting out the radiator support?? What I would do is unbolt the tranny mount, drive shafts and cross member and just slide the tranny back 6" (may not even have to unhook the wires). That should give you enough clearance so the engine goes in easier and wiggle room to get the splines together without dropping the T-bars, etc. B

x2 If you have a leak, you'll see it. I just cleaned my bell housing out, replaced everything and reassembled. Make sure your kit has the throw out bearing. B

I wouldn't remove the drive shaft!! Disconnect it at the differential and hang it... Oh, clock the bolt pattern so you bolt it up the same way. B

There is also a How To thread on cleaning the MAF... B

.3mm is .012" of an inch, and not much at all. I would never install a clutch that was close to this as by the time you know you hit the rivets, you'll need to reface the fly wheel. Also, I'm willing to bet that different manufacturers have different thickness/clearance friction pads. I do not recall what the rivet clearance is on a new clutch but 1.25mm (.05") must be somewhat worn. I'd replace it unless you like pulling trannys. Either that or go to a local auto parts store/dealership and look at one of their cluches... B

I see what you are trying to do but I think it would be a bad idea in bad weather conditions. I'm sure it helps fair weather, daily driving... B

Agreed and some have been done. Basically, some of the staff needs to go through the threads and rehost (if possible), but we don't always have the time. We have an account set up already but good point, we need to get on it. I'll try to do one a day... B

I've seen worse explanations. I enjoyed the stunt riders and the couples illustration also... B

No, the hex of the bolt is 10mm. It must be M5 or M6, coarse pitch from the looks. I have to get under the truck tomorrow so I'll verify and post then. B

^ I think he is impressed... Patherado or Pathrolet. My personal suggestion is that you call her Abby. Abby who?? Abby Normal... B

Have you removed a WD21 tranny?? I'm guessing not or else you are some ginormous bayou boy or something... :blik: B

I installed the Mile Marker hubs on the wife's 99 R50 and had the identical issue, to the point that I drove to the store and traded the locking mechanism for another. I installed it on the spot and it did the same thing. The store manager, another employee and I messed with it for at least 20 minutes with the same results. One employee told me to use a wrench to turn it and I told him to go away. Long of the short, the manager suggested that I switch it to lock instead of free when I install it. Why not? It worked, the problem hub turns freely now. I don't look forward to ever having to remove them, but at least I learned this trick. If your hubs are binding (mine would turn 1/2 way, get progressively tighter and finally bind long before locking in) do not force them!! They are plastic and I saw wear on the first selector that I messed with which was 1/2 the reason for the return. Hopefully this trick works for you as well. That is bizarre!! Is it some sort of traction control?? I don't get it... B

Thanks for the link!! It is said that ARB no longer makes them for the WD21 so either this place has some old inventory or they haven't updated their site. Anyone interested in ordering one would do well to call and ask questions first... B

Glad you got it Bud. B

I just picked up a set of the Hella Optilux 4" self contained HID lights from 4 Wheel Parts for $100 each. I'll be wiring them up this weekend... http://www.buyheadlightbulbs.com/HELLA-Optilux-4-HID-Driving-Light-p/hel-h71020171.htm B

I can't offer any advice other than be patient and do it right. If you set it up hokey it will always bother you, even if no one else can tell... B

The motor dying might be electrical, and not shutting off (dieseling) is usually tune up related. B