Precise1

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Good point, I keep forgetting to double check the quantities/units. I'll pin it and go trough it tonight. B

Did you soak the lifters for a day or two before install?? I seem to remember someone talking about that... B

A=PIr^2 1.75" = 2.4" area= 100% (stock) 2.0" = 3.1" area= 129% 2.25"= 4.0" area= 166% 2.5" = 4.9" area= 204% So, just how big do you want to go?? 2.0" is almost a 30% gain in area and bound to show improvements. 2.25" (what I have) is 66% increase and might be more than desirable with a high flow cat and a Flow Master exhaust. 2.5" diameter is more than double and probably rediculous. The stock exhaust is restrictive, but I can't believe it is only 1/2 the size of what is needed for reduced back pressure yet still allowing scavenging. Does that help?? B

I was going to mention that I am guessing TPS. Mine (auto tranny) would sometimes run 1000-1100rpm in park. I wiggled the connector for the TPS and instant response; idle drop to 750... I don't know about dying when the MAF is unplugged, I thought it generally stumbles but have never needed to do it myself. B

What condition is the fluid in?? Do you have an external tranny cooler installed and is the stock radiator cooler bypassed. Why was the tranny rebuilt 30k miles ago? What kind of strange sound?? Does it sound like a hyena or like an egg being dropped? B

Operator error?? B

Sure. It one of the two sensors in the housing after the upper radiator hose. I believe it is the yellow, rear most one... I did, it just took a while because my mom stopped by and I Rainex'd her windshield and replaced her wiper blades. Have you found your superior feature round tooth sprockets yet?? I believe those come off of 4 doors also... B

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325&view=findpost&p=364730 For general info, the entire thread http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325&st=0 B

It's raining, quit being cryptic. B

This sounds good, I need to pull the motor out of my parts truck and was hoping I could leave the tranny alone. Well, I may have to back it up to clear the MT input shaft... My question is why do you have to drop the T-bars to lift the motor up and out?? B

Yep, exactly. Yet another superior feature on the 4 door... B

So why am I having a hard time finding it at FactoryNissanParts.com?? B

Mouse nest on the Y pipe?? You may have a stuck injector, flooding a cylinder. Failed/dried out injector seal?? Dirty/varnished injector?? Crappy old gas causing injector problems?? Yeah, I'm going with injectors. B

Go to a hardware/home improvement store and buy a plumbing piece, a reducer and or elbow or what ever you need. That ghetto fab won't last and shouldn't be on your truck. You just need to slow down and think first. It's actualy faster and easier in the long run... *sigh* You are going to wear your forehead out... See above... B

Get a bottle jack with at least 18" of travel and you will be golden. Most scissor jacks that I have seen are garbage. I'm, sure you couldfind a stock nissan bottle jack if you ask/look around... B

It means that you did the right thing, figured it out and got the right injector. Sorry you had trouble, I'm guessing rushed or not the right screw driver?? Mine were tight, but I wouldn't expect rusted screws in Wa. Just curious... End of it all, she's up and running again and that is what this is all about!! B

Most people will argue that the Warn Premium are the best ones, but they are also the most expensive... The factory Nissan manual hubs are the strongest of all, but are rare and sought after. Pathfinders, no, I don't believe so. Frontier, maybe?? The old hardbodys did which will work on pathfinders. Pre 93 and 4cyl are 27 spline (86.5-89 pathfinder) and 94+/6cyl are 28 spline (90-95 pathfinder) IIRC. B

Does it have a sunroof?? The front seal on my wifes is wasted, I think the entire glass piece has to be removed with it. I have no idea how big a job that is... B

Ok, I just went out and looked. The injectors are held in with a top 'strap' and two screws, one on either side. For CYL #4, you can get to them through a gap in the plenum, just don't drop them!! You may have to remove the dizzy cap to undo the electrical clip, then grab the injector body and twist/rotate it back and forth firmly to break it free. All that is holdng it in at this point is the O-rings and age. If you haven't removed fuel pressure and drained the rails before you remove the injector, any gas remaining will pour into the cylinder. I had to remove the plug and crank it to clear it. I didn't want to risk hydrolocking the cylinder. It's not a bad job, I doubt you will have any real problems. B

No, the injectors come out with one screw, the fuel rails stay. This was on an R50 but I'm pretty sure the WDs are set up the same, I'll verify that when I take a break. Yes, the injectors are Nunya (pink) but will have a spot of paint on the top (black, blue, silver, etc). You may have to remove the electrical clip to see it though. I think you simply have to remove the plenum and the injectors, install new injectors and seals replace plenum. Personally, I only replaced the faulty injector (because I didn't want to remove the plenum). I do have 5 more used spares... B

Get the Crager Soft 8s in 15x7 or 15x8 with 4" BS from Summit Racing. No tax and $12 to ship them all to your door... B

A drill press and a heavy vice if you have experience using one. Personally I had planned on using my mill to drill it out (indicate in the arm/hole, etc) but I could not remove the arm no matter what I tried... Take it to a local/small machine shop and ask the guy how much... B

Good point!! Take damn good care of that truck, work through all the bugs and I'll buy it from you in 10 years for $2500... JK!! Sorry, couldn't help it... B

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ehem... Of course I was needling Simon, it is a cornerstone!! Sad fact is that the igloo dweller just has to go to the corner store for milk and it is considered wheeling... (lucky bastage) B